Yes, there are no marks like on an old, '90 500 Indy oil injection pump arm. The screw changes the "pull" of the mechanical linkage.

 

Here is the official way to do it

 

alignment



Thanks much....I will check to see that I am in the ball park.

 

How do you verify there isnt air bubble in oil lines? I thought they black lines? Also how do you correct this?

 

Hi Clay350,

The line from the pump to the tank Should Be Clear . You have 2 options.

1. If the air bubble is near the tank you can unbolt the tank and position it that the oil line is straight up and the bubble will enter the bottle and go to surface.
(some manage to get it out by tipping the sled on its side).

2. If the air bubble is towards the pump you best bet is to bleed the pump. once you bleed it you will see the bubble pass.

Let me know if you need anything else .

 

Thanks appreciate it

 

Will the dealer adjust the oil ratio to your liking if it is to benefit the engine say 50:1? Or won't they due to warranty issues....I would think any good mechanic that knows the engine runs on the lean side would do it for the simple fact that he's a GOOD mechanic.

 

They should,and make sure you receive a bill/work order showing that they did this. Save it for your records just in case.

 

First tank through my Indy and it appears it is running about 76:1 in the stock setting. That is too lean for my comfort zone.

 

iam right around the 75-1 mark too.

 

Intersting post for sure. Seeing this is a couple of years old......are we still seeing around 75-1 form the factory? Looks like the adjustment screw is a doozsy to get at, and there's a jam nut too!! Fun!!

 

I'm sure it's the same. I know they are not going to richen it up as they are doing this for EPA emissions regs.
Mark your tank and check your usage if you are concerned.
It was a piece of cake to change mine I didn't even pull the air box. If you get some long extensions you can get to the nut easily. Take your time though and don't force the jamb nut as you don't want to bend that mounting tab.

 

So I am getting a new 600 Indy for my wife. I plan on calculating the oil/fuel ratio the first couple of tanks. I am putting a vented cap on. My question is she is a relatively calm rider cruising along at 35 to 40 mph. I know how you ride affects oil usage so can I expect her oil usage to be lower because she is not aggressive? Will I need to turn up the oil adjustment to use more to be safe? I don't care about horsepower, just what will lubricate the engine good to help it last.

 

I bought my wife a 13 indy 600 with
1500 miles. He told me he did not touch the oil pump ever. He did say he fouled some plugs every once in a while. This is why I'm not going to turn the oil pump up yet until she rides it. Then will do measurements to figure out the ratio. Does that make sense I am putting a new fuel filter in it. Or since Im in there should I just turn it up?

Then when I do check the ratio should I be worried about how she rides slower and set the oil pump for the way she rides the sled ?

 

so in order to make sure your sled hasn't suffered oil starvation you can pull off the exhaust and look at the pistons from the front for scuffs???

 

Cool, thanks AK!

You guys all go three full turns? Just trying to get the right amount of turns, including adding 1oz of oil per gallon of gas.

 

Before I even had one mile on my Indy I turned it up 3 full turns, My ratio was then measured at 51.8:1 Then after a 1,000mi I backed off 1/4 turn and now I'm at 56.5:1 ratio and I'm staying there.

 

Really?! We are at a point that we need to add oil to the tank of an oil injected machine?
I bought the cap and I listen to people on this forum but I am not premixing my gas in addition to oil injection other than the first break-in tank. I would sooner buy a 4-stroke.

 

Really?! We are at a point that we need to add oil to the tank of an oil injected machine?
I bought the cap and I listen to people on this forum but I am not premixing my gas in addition to oil injection other than the first break-in tank. I would sooner buy a 4-stroke.

My Indy runs lean on the oil injection. Its either turn the pump up or add to the tank. Ive chose to add to the tank on fill ups. Im not precise about it but add bout an ounce for each gal. I don't think its a real big deal.

 

get the vented cap on and after your pre mix is gone you don't need any oil in the tank just drive it hard it will use oil then.But where buddys wife is going to be riding slow all the time he should have the oil pump turned up some.

 

10-4. I'll be measuring closely the first couple tanks.

 

To each his own, for sure. :thumbsup:

I'm draining the syn and syn/gas mix from both tanks this weekend. I'll be adding 1oz per gallon for break in, and will gladly be adding between a half oz and 1oz ounce of Legend per gallon for the life of the machine.

 

there you go
http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/552-indy-pro-ride-chassis/672393-fouling-plugs.html

 

Here's the Bikeman vid on how to do it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFjLN-YqGk0

You can do it this way or if you can get a hold of some longer extensions and get in on the right side to reach that jamb nut, you don't even need to pull all that stuff off that he shows.

 

It's funny how some sleds eat up plugs during warm up/ break-in and others never fouled a plug. I guess I have been lucky. With over 3000 miles on mine, I have never fouled or changed a plug yet. (Knock on wood!)
FWIW, My Indy has used VES Gold since day one and always been warmed up to at least 100 degrees before driving off.

 

Mine doesn't foul any plugs anymore. It must of been a break in thing. Or people are getting bad batch of plugs.

 

How do you all know what the temp is? Do I have a temp gauge on the LCD portion of my cluster? (2015 Indy SP)

 

Yes hit the mode button, Green one. on the left side handle bars. It will show E for engine then the temp.

 

Hmmm, musta just been a break in thing. I'll kepp an eye out.

Ugh, same thing happened to me as a guy in another thread. Jam nut is covered in so much yellow paint that wants to take the screw with it when you loosen it. Not sure how I'm gonna break it loose now.

You were right though AK - 1' extension bar is the way to go, just gotta figure out how to get this jam nut and screw to break independently. Normally you can just tighten up a jam nut really tight to break the bolt/screw free, but dont' wanna bend that plate. No way in hell I can get a wrench on the jam nut either.

 

Hmmm, musta just been a break in thing. I'll kepp an eye out.

Ugh, same thing happened to me as a guy in another thread. Jam nut is covered in so much yellow paint that wants to take the screw with it when you loosen it. Not sure how I'm gonna break it loose now.

You were right though AK - 1' extension bar is the way to go, just gotta figure out how to get this jam nut and screw to break indepentantly. Normally you can just tighten up a jam nut really tight to break the bolt/screw free, but dont' wanna bend that plate. No way in hell I can get a wrench on the jam nut either.

Maybe some break/carb cleaner on it? It'll eat the paint off normally....

 

My nut/screw was not really gummed up with paint so I was able to stick a long bladed screwdriver in there to hold the jamb nut while I turned the set screw.

You may end up doing the big take apart like in the vid to get a wrench in there to hold it.

 

Ok, in case anyone has trouble with this here's what I found anyway: Just my two cents on what worked for me.

I tried it both from the front of the machine and from the clutch side. Acces from the front with the hood removed is MUCH easier as AK stated. Otherwise you need to remove the secondary, the oil tank/clutch cover assy., as well as some air intake ducting and disconnect some elecrical connections.

From the front, just need to pop off the hood. From there get a foot's worth of extension bars, attach your 8 mil socket and crack your jam nut loose. If like my sled, the yellow paint takes the oil screw with it you CAN fit a small 8 mil wrench in there to hold it. See pic


From there, tape a small regular screw driver bit and socket onto your extension set up. Make sure to tape it or it could end up in the belly pan, and it keeps it from wobbling too.

Then if you approach the sled from the front with the PTO side on your right....you can hold the 8mil wrench on the jam nut with your left hand and turn the screw with your extended screw drive bit with your right. You should be able to just finger turn it. No need to hook up a socket wrench, and it's must easier to manipulate this way.


Also, one tip to do a head of time to make it easier,.... zip tie the wires up running through that area before you start. Makes it way eaier to see what your are doing when counting your turns. When using a 1 foot extension with a bit that size, it WILL fall out of the slot a couple times.

After you set the screw, swap out your screw socket for your 8 mil on your extension bar , tighten the jam nut and you should be good to go.

 

This tool works perfectly: Carb Adjusting Toil.
Motion Pro Carb Adjusting Tool Designed For Use On Honda Kawasaki Suzuki And Yamaha Multi-cylinder Engines Fits Both Mikuni And Keihin Carburetors With 8mm Hex Nut And Screwdriver Slot Alloy Steel 11 Long
Manufacturer: Motion Pro
SKU: 4843

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...otion-pro-carb-adjusting-tool?SiteId=CJ_665129-7835955-10557879-&WT.MC_ID=54006

 

One other quick question I had on this though.... If your simply opening a jam nut and turning the screw in for more oil, why/what exaclty are you aligning the scribe mark up for? Not sure I follow the purpose of this part. Even the manual says to "Check for alighment' at the beginning of the whole procedure, but then doens't mention it again.

 

Are you sure that isn't for adjusting the oil pump cable???