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Ok i'm putting my kit from ODS on my 05-F6 couple questions. It came with a orange spring #0648-774 and it is 1.5" taller than the stock green one, is it supposed to be that much taller? Also the helix that came with it is #C-ODS does the 9 stand for 900 or is it just a part #. Just wanted to check before it's all together.
Thanks
Steve in Ct :beer_cheers:
 

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Just a part number. Yes the orange spring is that much taller. More pre load. These DDrives need alot of spring rate. The helix I bet is a 48/38. You can rap paper around it can mark the angles with a pencil. Measure the angles.

Not saying the kit will not work just you may want to open up the spider spring cup and set your off set and deflection as follows. Then the kit will flat out rock your socks. This is a cut and paste of mine that explains 90% of the DDrive problems. This was a write up for a cross fire but the fundamentals of set up are the same.


Ok. Take the white ajuster out of the end of the helix. Push on the end of the helix but not the adjuster letting the belt drop into the secondary. Then turn the white ajuster out left hand thread. YOu had to have taken this out to take the secondary off. IF you look on the adjuster there is some rings on it held on with an O ring. Adding a ring to this stack will tighten the belt.

With the rear of the sled in the air you want to add shims to the adjuster till the track wants to just creep ahead at idle. This is the perfect deflection setting. Don't worry about how much bend there is in the belt. Set it to the track creep.

Ok now the off set. The rings under the secondary are the shims that set the off set. Take them all out you may need to take them out with a magnet. Put the secondary on with out bolting it and with all the shims out from behind it. Put the belt on and put your deflection adjuster back in. With the rear in the air still and the belt guard off hit the flipper and spin the track up to speed. The secondary will pop into the motor then let off the flipper and let the track free wheel till it trys to creep at idle. Grab the brake and measure from the outter sheave of the secondary to a fix point on the DDrive. Do the test again and see if you come up with the same measurement. This measurement is where you want to shim to and bolt the secondary back on. The washer on the bolt may be cupped so just flip it and bolt it back on.

You may find that you take out about .060 from where the dealer is setting them. That is because the off set bar is wrong from 2005. Now if your deflection changes then the off set will need to be re-set because the secondary on these sled cann't float any more. The old secondary that would float would set its self up as the belt worn in. IF the belt gets worn you may want to re test and check off set again.

The other thing is to check for primary spring bind in the spider cup. The springs even the stock spring tend to catch in the spider cup and we have been milling them wider to the brace in them. This gives room for the spring to grow and not hang up. You can close up the belt to sheave spacing too most are way to big. I like to see .025" between a new belt and the movable sheave in the primary. I bet you have .060 to .125"s in there. Changing this would mean you would have to pull the spider and get at the shims under it. IF you just want to ride making room for the spring to grow will make so much of a difference.


Note in the pictures the digging the primary spring was doing. Note how much has been widened. With out this widened teh final spring rate may reach as high as over 400#'s and stop the shift .5" from the top of the primary.

Don.
 
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