Hardcore Sledder banner

41 - 59 of 59 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,067 Posts
ttt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,571 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
TTT
I was looking for this thread for some time and i finally found it so TTT it goes for anyone else interested in a good read.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
very informative write up, id been looking for some info on how the geometry of the rear skid works and this was probably the best description ive found. i feel smarter for reading this...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,571 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
We have to ride together this year Craig. Ill let you ride the new 800 and ill bring Brandon with me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,930 Posts
We have to ride together this year Craig. Ill let you ride the new 800 and ill bring Brandon with me.[/b]
Tits! I have to get back in sled mode. My projects got side tracked because I found a new 455 for the old purple Electra 225 and a 493 horse 455 olds for the old 68 cutty. Too many F'n projects. Oh well, it is still burnout season. I'll post some picks when I get the old Iron back together. As for Ridin, you guys have a couch to stay on anytime. Craig
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,541 Posts
This was a good old thread. Lots of good questions and discussions. The majority of the points made in this thread apply to most of the IQ and ProX style skids, even the trail sleds skids.

Thanks for finding it......again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,571 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
And TTT again. Mod please PIN this to the top.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
Posting this more for my own reference but also to verify that I'm reading Tom's posts correctly, I think this is the set-up I'm going to try after I get my shocks back from being revalved.

I need a little more weight transfer for the powder so I should move the FTA to the rear bolt location.
I should change the lower center link to the rear hole for a rising rate dampening effect, making it softer on smaller bumps.
Lower pivot arm on RTA, leave in center position.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,985 Posts
We covered this in the ProX forum about a year ago. Every adjustment was discussed with a lengthy write-up. Ha...imagine that.

I looked for about 1/2 hour last night but couldn't find it, the pictures would be missing anyway but at least I wouldn't have to type it all again.

Lets discuss one section at a time and we will use Mr.ProX's Pics. If you have a question about a specific section just do a reply to that section.

So here goes.
In this picture the Front Torque Arm (FTA) is mounted to the rail using the back hole in the rail and the back hole in the Arm. Stock for an IQ is the front hole in the Arm and front hole in the rail. Many ProX skids are mounted like shown in this picture. Some ProX rails only have the rear hole drilled in the rail and a pilot hole is for the front position. It can be drilled out if the other hole becomes damaged. If you use the front hole in the rail you must use the front hole in the FTA.

The affects of the two positions go like this. In the front mounted position there is less leverage working against the shock. This provides a stiffer ride to the front of the skid. The front of the skid is more resistant to impacts on the FTA. BUT, in this position the rail is held slightly more off the ground. So using this position will improve the FTA ability to take a hard impact from a bump but the rail is not quite a parrallel to the ground.

In the rear mounted position the FTA has more leverage to work against the shock, the FTA and shock can't respond quite as well to hard direct impacts but it provides for a slightly softer ride when hitting bumps with the front of the skid. on the plus side the rails are slightly flatter to the ground in this position.

The forward position would help the front of the skid absorb a bump and the rear mounting position would help the skid transfer weight a little better under acceleration.

The difference in ride quality is pretty minimal. It's fairly hard to tell the difference in either of these positions when beating down the trail. The Primary reason someone would change this mounting position is if one set of mounting holes in the rail were wollered out from the bolt threads. So if your rails holes are all wallered out you can use the other position and get your skid back in top shape.[/b]
This topic needs to be pinned!!

So is it safe to say that rather than tightening up the limiter straps, I could just use the front hole in the FTA? Would I be achieving the same thing, just not as drastic?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,571 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
Heres the pics again that went away before.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,571 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,260 Posts
Can anyone update the pics on this?? Would like to follow it to set up my sled...thanks!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Snowmobile.com App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,541 Posts
Can anyone update the pics on this?? Would like to follow it to set up my sled...thanks!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Snowmobile.com App
What specifically are you trying to do/understand. Those pics may not be able to be added. I don't know where they are any more.

For good overall performance your lower rear torque arm should be mounted in the center hole in the rail. On the bottom of the rear shock the pivot arm should also be in the center hole on the "H" bracket.

As far as the front torque arm goes you can use either mounting position on the rail. If your front mounting position is wollered out you can move the bolt and bushing to the rear position in the rail and TA. You may want to make a change to the limiter strap length depending on how you plan to run the sled and how much steering effort you end up with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,260 Posts
Just wanted to make sure my sled was setup some where neutral for trail riding.... I know its not gonna ride the best but that's fine. I ride pretty fast on the trail most of the time with a little off trail stuff...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,726 Posts
Just a recap, if you have an '05 then drill out the front torque arm mounting hole that is one hole lower than stock and have your shocks revlaved. If you trail ride a lot you may want to go to a softer front track spring. Stock was a 160 and many prefer a 140. Revalve IFS shocks to match. '06-'10 use and emulsion shock for the front of the track so you can lower the pressure on that to 150psi and it works well for most. Revalve the rear shock, Revalve IFS shocks to match. '11 and newer, up to '16's now, valving and springs have changed a few times but we still recommend revalving all shocks and changing springs according to your weight. If your rear suspension sags and its all lubed up and there are no broken or bent parts and your shocks are fresh then your torsion springs are shot. They go bad frequently and need replaced way more often then they usually get replaced. Revalving will help you obtain proper weight shift and that will allow you to get better traction on acceleration, braking and overall control especially in the stutter bumps/moguls. Contact me for more info. I love to help when I can.
 
41 - 59 of 59 Posts
Top