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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife rides a dealer long tracked (133) indy 440 and we are taking it to colorado on a trip and I need some ideas for changes. I am planning on some clutching, jets, and probably a gear change (one size on top). I am not sure whats in it stock but will be at or about 9000-11000 ft. the sled is perfect for her everywhere else and i think it will do fine in some powder and on trails.

I have another concern, the thing does not turn when you turn the bars, but if you stand up and lean real far foward then it will turn better. do i need to adjust the front shocks (set to stiffest setting) or something in the rear suspension (like limiting straps), i understand that it is pretty light in the front and it has plastic skis but it needs to turn better than it does.

thanks
 

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As far as setting it up for out there I would contact a polaris dealer where you are going. Ask them what you need to change as far as weights and springs, helix. As for the skis I would start and see if you have any carbide left. If thats not the problem sounds like you just need some more ski pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am looking for what I need to adjust and how I do it, so to get the ski pressure I am looking for.
 

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For more ski pressure

Tighten the limiter strap in the skid frame, which is to make it shorter.
This will also limit weight transfer ( hence the name).

Loosen the front ski springs ( soften them).

If you are going to ride off trail and or deep snow I would NOT tighten the limiter.
You will need the transfer. Loosen the front ski springs and try that 1st. If you have the cam adjusters go to the softest setting and go from there.
If the springs have collars then soften 2 to 3 complete rotations at a time, there is a big change and with the collars you can go too far easily.

The point about what shape your carbides are in is a good one.
It may just be that they are pooched.
That sled should turn well without too much chassis adjustment if it has decent carbides.
It will need all the help it can get for the deep snow so if anything you will want to lengthen or loosen your limiter strap.

make sure the rear suspension torsion springs are set on the stiff side too, this also helps with turning. With that skidframe there isn't much travel so there shouldn't be much sag or sitin when the rider sits on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It has the big cam adjuster and since its on the highest settting I should have room to adjust, i will also have to check out the carbides as I thought I did last year and they were fine then, but maybe i didnt look close enough. How are the torsion springs adjusted?
 

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The short leg of the torsion spring sits on a plastic block on the upper idler wheel cross shaft at the rear of the rear suspension. This block rotates and you can put it on one of three aspects of the block. The closer the spring sits to the shaft is softest and the part of the block that has the most plastic that holds the spring farthest away from the shaft is the stiffest.
This is primarily how you adjust the rear suspension for how soft or stiff it is but this adjustment also affects the steering as it affects the chassis attitude as well as when set stiff the rear suspension squats much less under power which keeps more weight on the nose of the sled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If the rear springs are set to the stiffest setting and most of the transfer is now to the front how willl that change the way it handles in moderate to deep snow. Can the shocks be adjusted in the rear skid by adjustments on the shock or shock position in the skid?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I hope that pockets will chime in with some cluthcing suggestions because I hear that he is resident clutch guru for polaris sleds, and I have yet to try his other suggestions for around home and I can bet it will be right on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am also looking at getting a different track for it, I think I am gonna use a 136 x 1.25 or a 136 x 1.375 and I was curious if I should gear down two or three on top and maybe one size on bottom to help for the track and the elevation I will be at when in colorado. Also what clutching changes might I need to make for the gear change and track change.
 

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No clutching changes, other than the weights needed for the different elevation. If you gear down a lot, keep the stock red secondary spring. Don't go more than the 1.25", and you could gear to 19/40, or 18/41, I would not go lower. 18/41 will give you a 75 mph top end, or about 80 on the speedo. Use the red spring in #2, and a R8, or hot seat HSP34, or HSP34S helix. An erlandson 42/34 progressive would work as well.
 
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