Mods. on 99 xc 700
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IMO , stock clutching and jetting on the 99 xc's were terrible.
I'd jet it down to 180/185, R1371G needles, SLP Power packs in the carbs.
Clutching: EPI black with the stock 10-60 weights or 10-62 weights. In the secondary, throw away that straight 36deg helix and put in something like a 46-36, 48-36 or 50-36 , with a EPI orange or Polaris silver/blue sec. spring.
I'd jet it down to 180/185, R1371G needles, SLP Power packs in the carbs.
Clutching: EPI black with the stock 10-60 weights or 10-62 weights. In the secondary, throw away that straight 36deg helix and put in something like a 46-36, 48-36 or 50-36 , with a EPI orange or Polaris silver/blue sec. spring.
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EPI performance/lake race clutch kit, SLP single pipe, slp airbox mod, V-force reeds, tie bar, and coushin arm, follow slp's jetting specs for the single. I'd throw in the harder duro motor mounts as well because with this set up the sled flat out rips. With the front and rear end strapped down and 144 picks I ran 119mp/h on raydar and cleaned up in the 700 improved and 800 improved class. If you really want to go consider a set of SLP hi-comp heads, with these you should run as close to 98 octane but you can get away with running american high test and jet up a bit to compensate.
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2,347 Posts
Both above good posts.
IVAR is right on the money for a place to start and low bucks
That clutching/jetting with decent traction will be a world harder pulling and faster.
As for add ons.....
Those things love VFORCE reeds, 1st thing to do.
SLP single is also proven to be an easy and effective addition, should be next.
You could gut the airbox but it doesn't help a lot on that model.
Porting and a cylinder head would be next and you would have a rocket.
The stocker wearing Reeds and the SLP single is wicked though and not too much $$. Clutch that up and it will fly.
IVAR is right on the money for a place to start and low bucks
That clutching/jetting with decent traction will be a world harder pulling and faster.
As for add ons.....
Those things love VFORCE reeds, 1st thing to do.
SLP single is also proven to be an easy and effective addition, should be next.
You could gut the airbox but it doesn't help a lot on that model.
Porting and a cylinder head would be next and you would have a rocket.
The stocker wearing Reeds and the SLP single is wicked though and not too much $$. Clutch that up and it will fly.
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what i had in mine was. recut head 12:85 comp on pump gas, bumped ign timing two degrees to 16deg. 64 g weights, v force deltasw/ported boots, stock primary spring, black erlandson sec spring and a 48-38 helix. this was the best sled iu had for the mods i had into it. there werent any 98 srx 700s in my area thar could touch it. also won two classes at local radar run that year 98.1 mph with trail studs.
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Do you remember how many thou was taken off the head?
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3,175 Posts
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i think like .040 but the dome was redone also. same guy that did indy heads motors did the head. this was on a 98 xc 7 but should work almost the same on a 99
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I had two '98 XC7s - both were two different versions. I have for years, the '99 was a crappy sled that year (thats before anyone can work on it to make it run) Since the '99 is a 824 version motor, that sled runs best at 8k revs. I agree with posts above but in a stock form, VF would be a waste of money and will not gain to justify the cost. If youre going to do some motor modification(s) then the VF would show some gains. The 220 version in '97s and some '98s - VF would gain the most in a stock motor.
If you get beat by a FIII 700 with your '99 - it tells me two things, Its either your sled doesnt run well or two, the FIII has been worked on. A buddy of mine used to have a '98 FIII and I used to beat it with my '98 XC7 (824 version) The '99 had issues with carb/thermostat problems back at that time. Part of that reason why Polaris put thermo in the sled because the '98s were a very cold beast and takes forever to warm up and among other stuff. Matt from MCB Performance has a kit setup for your sled and it will help to run better.
Clutching set up I had in my 824 version:
62g - EPI red
50/36 w/ EPI silver
tractions is a must or youre wasting your time.
Anyone? WL.
If you get beat by a FIII 700 with your '99 - it tells me two things, Its either your sled doesnt run well or two, the FIII has been worked on. A buddy of mine used to have a '98 FIII and I used to beat it with my '98 XC7 (824 version) The '99 had issues with carb/thermostat problems back at that time. Part of that reason why Polaris put thermo in the sled because the '98s were a very cold beast and takes forever to warm up and among other stuff. Matt from MCB Performance has a kit setup for your sled and it will help to run better.
Clutching set up I had in my 824 version:
62g - EPI red
50/36 w/ EPI silver
tractions is a must or youre wasting your time.
Anyone? WL.
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2,347 Posts
Great post from WLR.
The MCB kit is a no %$#*^& around setup for those less knowledgeable.
Install the complete kit and it works well and is a big improvement.
Although the Vforce on the stock 99 824 cyl motor may not demonstrate significant actual HP #'s on the dyno the improvement in throttle response and midrange snap along with the cleanup of the overall carburetion translates into improved accelaration. The improvement is especially beneficial for on and off the gas operation.....like trail riding......although for straight drag racing where you are on it once and don't let off it is not as pronounced.
The MCB kit is a no %$#*^& around setup for those less knowledgeable.
Install the complete kit and it works well and is a big improvement.
Although the Vforce on the stock 99 824 cyl motor may not demonstrate significant actual HP #'s on the dyno the improvement in throttle response and midrange snap along with the cleanup of the overall carburetion translates into improved accelaration. The improvement is especially beneficial for on and off the gas operation.....like trail riding......although for straight drag racing where you are on it once and don't let off it is not as pronounced.
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Like the guys say, R1371G needles, #3 clip, air screw 1 1/2 turns, mains down to 180/185 no problem as cold as you want. Reed assy from a VES engine, or V-force. Good set-up was dark blue/white primary, hot seat E weights (60 gram light tip), silver/blue #3, and HSP36S. Stock gears. Get your CDI reprogrammed to 98 RMK specs, or buy the box. Another good one is polaris almond, 10-62, hot seat orange #2, and HSP36X. You want 8000 rpm, 8100 max. If you go to the SLP single, run stock jetting, R1371G needle, reeds, stock gears. Almond primary, 10-64 weights, silver/blue #2, and erlandson progressive 52/34, or HSP53/35S. The clutch alignment needs to be right on, and proper clutch clearance with a new belt. Make sure the RRSS are set in the rear hole on low position, and get the limiter strap specs, and set them to stock first. Many guys change the settings, and throw the balance off. The front measurement should be 1 5/8 to 2 inces different from the rear measurement. That is when the front is measured from the bottom of the strap bracket to the top of the rail just in front of the rail bumper, and the rear from bottom edge of the torsion spring to the top of the rail just behind the bumper. The carb sync needs to be right on, and replace the float pins, and have the float heights checked, they are not adjusted the same as the regular Mikuni carbs.
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Hey pockets I tried to send you a PM. Inbox full. Do you think cutting the head is worthwhile on the 99's? Say about 0.0010". How much can be cut without messing with the domes (squish?).
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Don't bother cutting it. Go with a cheater head from hot seat, SLP, or have someone like Indyhead recut it. .010" off it is a waste of time. The RMK's actually came with tighter production tolerance heads, usually .020" to .025" tighter. 91 octane only then.
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595 Posts
Thanks for the advice.
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does anyone have the stock limiter strap settings for a a 99xc 700 ? mine has no weight transfer at all and seems like a really rough ride in the rear . the suspension seems to have no give at all. if you look at the front and rear limiter straps they are really tight. anyone have any ideas ? is it the straps making it feel like riding a tank ? and not getting the front ski's off the ground at all. 96 pics and there really isn't any weight transfer cause honestly it feels like the rear suspension doesn't move at all ? :cn: :dunno: :dunno:
any help / tips / recommendations would be great guys :beerchug:
any help / tips / recommendations would be great guys :beerchug:
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17,289 Posts
Many ways to set up the x-10 as it got lots of adjustments that can be done. This is probably not the best for weight transfer , but works for me for all-around trail use.
Also depends a lot on rider weight, shock and spring condition, and intended usage.
Is it a XC or XCSP btw? And what is the rider weight?
First if both limiter straps are really tight, I would let out both of them until they're not tight , then tighten them so there's no slack. Then leave the rear strap alone, and use the front strap to dial in ski pressure.
Take off preload on the front spring by turning the spring and collar. Just enough preload that the spring don't rattle.
How is the front and rear scissors set? I like having the front on high , the rear on medium. Rear spring preload? Set according to rider weight.
For max transfer, set rear preload to low and rear scissors to low, or move them back one hole.
Also depends a lot on rider weight, shock and spring condition, and intended usage.
Is it a XC or XCSP btw? And what is the rider weight?
First if both limiter straps are really tight, I would let out both of them until they're not tight , then tighten them so there's no slack. Then leave the rear strap alone, and use the front strap to dial in ski pressure.
Take off preload on the front spring by turning the spring and collar. Just enough preload that the spring don't rattle.
How is the front and rear scissors set? I like having the front on high , the rear on medium. Rear spring preload? Set according to rider weight.
For max transfer, set rear preload to low and rear scissors to low, or move them back one hole.
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