Like the guys say, R1371G needles, #3 clip, air screw 1 1/2 turns, mains down to 180/185 no problem as cold as you want. Reed assy from a VES engine, or V-force. Good set-up was dark blue/white primary, hot seat E weights (60 gram light tip), silver/blue #3, and HSP36S. Stock gears. Get your CDI reprogrammed to 98 RMK specs, or buy the box. Another good one is polaris almond, 10-62, hot seat orange #2, and HSP36X. You want 8000 rpm, 8100 max. If you go to the SLP single, run stock jetting, R1371G needle, reeds, stock gears. Almond primary, 10-64 weights, silver/blue #2, and erlandson progressive 52/34, or HSP53/35S. The clutch alignment needs to be right on, and proper clutch clearance with a new belt. Make sure the RRSS are set in the rear hole on low position, and get the limiter strap specs, and set them to stock first. Many guys change the settings, and throw the balance off. The front measurement should be 1 5/8 to 2 inces different from the rear measurement. That is when the front is measured from the bottom of the strap bracket to the top of the rail just in front of the rail bumper, and the rear from bottom edge of the torsion spring to the top of the rail just behind the bumper. The carb sync needs to be right on, and replace the float pins, and have the float heights checked, they are not adjusted the same as the regular Mikuni carbs.