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2021 Polaris Matryx 850 Switchback Assault 146
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Lots of blown belts here on my 05 F7 DD, of do I mesure and aligne my clutches
 

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2021 Polaris Matryx 850 Switchback Assault 146
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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I thought Clutch tools didnt work on the DD???[/b]
Ya bro every clutch alingment bar ever made was off. It is very noticable on the DDrvie becasue the secondary cann't float. AND should never float.

What you need to do is put the sled on a track stand pull the bolt out of the secondary and all the shims from behind the secondary. Put the secondary back on and let it float. Put the belt your going to run on. Set the defection with the old style or with the after market one that don't need the bolt to hold the secondary on to set the deflection. Now nail the flipper on the track stand take the sled up to 20-25mph then let off and let it free wheel to a nere stop. Parking brake and measure off the motor plate to a spot on the secondary. You will see the secondary gos in then will come back. Do this a few times and see if you get the same number for the secondarys off set. Now shim to this and try to set your deflection the same from the test.

Tight deflection will give you less off set, hard belt will give you less off set as well.

Loose deflection will give you more off set and a soft belt will give you more off set.

Because the DDrive will not float I like to take one extra .030 shim out to move the secondary in more for speed runs. Think in your head what gos on here with the clutches. You want the belt to go straght in and setting up this way it will. The DDrive is getting blamed for the slow speeds but the lose of belt grip deep in the secondary has to do with the fact the off set is not to be found at full shift because the secondary cann't move in it is fixed. The belt when getting pulled realy hard on will thin like a rubber band and twist. Your counter actting this twist with the off set. So putting .030 more than you need on the top of the secondary will give you more belt grip in the over drive. IF you put four quarter lines from the outside of the secondary in to the center on both halfs then do this test then take the secondary off and measure how deep the belt went and compare one side of the secondary to the other you will see if your belt is going in straight or now.

Now what was spec on the floating secondary? .060 free float? Wonder why the chainers are faster with out paying attention to your clutches?

Don.
 

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My '04 ZR900 had to have the secondary moved OUT by 3/16 of an inch.It would flip the belt inside-out. It was WAY off. Spaced it accordingly and you can actually feel the loss of drag in the clutches by aligning. snap
 

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2021 Polaris Matryx 850 Switchback Assault 146
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ya bro every clutch alingment bar ever made was off. It is very noticable on the DDrvie becasue the secondary cann't float. AND should never float.

What you need to do is put the sled on a track stand pull the bolt out of the secondary and all the shims from behind the secondary. Put the secondary back on and let it float. Put the belt your going to run on. Set the defection with the old style or with the after market one that don't need the bolt to hold the secondary on to set the deflection. Now nail the flipper on the track stand take the sled up to 20-25mph then let off and let it free wheel to a nere stop. Parking brake and measure off the motor plate to a spot on the secondary. You will see the secondary gos in then will come back. Do this a few times and see if you get the same number for the secondarys off set. Now shim to this and try to set your deflection the same from the test.

Tight deflection will give you less off set, hard belt will give you less off set as well.

Loose deflection will give you more off set and a soft belt will give you more off set.

Because the DDrive will not float I like to take one extra .030 shim out to move the secondary in more for speed runs. Think in your head what gos on here with the clutches. You want the belt to go straght in and setting up this way it will. The DDrive is getting blamed for the slow speeds but the lose of belt grip deep in the secondary has to do with the fact the off set is not to be found at full shift because the secondary cann't move in it is fixed. The belt when getting pulled realy hard on will thin like a rubber band and twist. Your counter actting this twist with the off set. So putting .030 more than you need on the top of the secondary will give you more belt grip in the over drive. IF you put four quarter lines from the outside of the secondary in to the center on both halfs then do this test then take the secondary off and measure how deep the belt went and compare one side of the secondary to the other you will see if your belt is going in straight or now.

Now what was spec on the floating secondary? .060 free float? Wonder why the chainers are faster with out paying attention to your clutches?

Don.[/b]
Please Don, set up my sled.....I will pay you!!
 

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Ya bro every clutch alingment bar ever made was off. It is very noticable on the DDrvie becasue the secondary cann't float. AND should never float.

What you need to do is put the sled on a track stand pull the bolt out of the secondary and all the shims from behind the secondary. Put the secondary back on and let it float. Put the belt your going to run on. Set the defection with the old style or with the after market one that don't need the bolt to hold the secondary on to set the deflection. Now nail the flipper on the track stand take the sled up to 20-25mph then let off and let it free wheel to a nere stop. Parking brake and measure off the motor plate to a spot on the secondary. You will see the secondary gos in then will come back. Do this a few times and see if you get the same number for the secondarys off set. Now shim to this and try to set your deflection the same from the test.

Tight deflection will give you less off set, hard belt will give you less off set as well.

Loose deflection will give you more off set and a soft belt will give you more off set.

Because the DDrive will not float I like to take one extra .030 shim out to move the secondary in more for speed runs. Think in your head what gos on here with the clutches. You want the belt to go straght in and setting up this way it will. The DDrive is getting blamed for the slow speeds but the lose of belt grip deep in the secondary has to do with the fact the off set is not to be found at full shift because the secondary cann't move in it is fixed. The belt when getting pulled realy hard on will thin like a rubber band and twist. Your counter actting this twist with the off set. So putting .030 more than you need on the top of the secondary will give you more belt grip in the over drive. IF you put four quarter lines from the outside of the secondary in to the center on both halfs then do this test then take the secondary off and measure how deep the belt went and compare one side of the secondary to the other you will see if your belt is going in straight or now.

Now what was spec on the floating secondary? .060 free float? Wonder why the chainers are faster with out paying attention to your clutches?

Don.[/b]
great explanation for sure. makes sense for checking offset. you may still need some form of clutch alignment tool to check if clutches are parallel, I would check this as well if you are blowing belts. have a good look at your motor mounts.
 

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Please Don, set up my sled.....I will pay you!![/b]
Bro you have snow up there? Man we go to Lake Oniping in Feb and are hopping for ice let alone snow. Man what a junky year for sledding.
YOu let me test some more. IM me.


snappydave were you using the 020 belt? Super soft and would streach like a rubber band twist to the point it would flip over.
 
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