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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i took my sled up up to michigan a couple weeks ago and manged to find some snow. i noticed when i would hold it wide open for a while or i would be cruising from 70-90 mph, the the motor didnt want to rev past 7000 rpm. after u hold it it down for a while or get on and off the gas it would come back up to about 8000 rpm. this was getting very frustrating as my dads new dragon would walk past me when this happened. (its dead nuts if everythings working right). it feels like a clutch problem, not engine. any input would be great thanx!
 

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Try a different belt?

DET coming on?

Det lightbulb good?

Miles on primary clutch?

Jetting and any mods?
 

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I would put money on it that your running very hot (water temp) and the cdi goes into protect mode. Could also be det like stated above. Do you have a aux cooler kit on your sled? In low or wet snow conditions our sleds run hot , to hot. They need more cooling on EVERY edge / prox sled I have riden.
 

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Check your bellows and exhaust valve. Excessive heat can warp the valve causing it to not open up fully at times. A tear in the bellows can also cause this.
 

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I would put my money on the det, or the temp protection coming on. On any 800 especially, put the aux cooler #2202143, and the longest snowflap you can. Ideally so that it drags on the ground when riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i have it leaned out (430 in mag side and 420 in pto side). the det?temp light did not come and it has a pretty long snow flap. it feels like a clutching issue mainly the secondary. is the spring maybe gettin hot and collapsing?
 

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i had the same thing with my o3/800 last year. i put on heavy hitters and everything was fine, i go out and it rips. start putting some miles on it and it starts to get lazy. dead stop to wot and it pulls fine, leasurely cruzing and nail it and it dosent pull. once i get it home and start looking around,i notice that the weights have started to rub. the weight bushings have worn and laid over into the spyder. dollars to doughnuts you are having the same problem. look closely at your weights.
 

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have you checked plugs and wash, maybe your carbs have varnish in them and shes running lean at WOT. that will cause DET(detonation) which the sensor will pickup and the cdi will retard the timing to get it to stop.
If you think its clutchs, pull them apart and clean them, replace the springs, there cheap.
also if your exhaust valves are sticking open or closed it will cause all sorts of nasty crap to happen.
 

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Is the det bulb light good?
 

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I'm sure you check your exhaust valves....... But make sure the bellows aren't leaking, if there is any oil on the outside part of either one of the bellows they are leaking and not getting the valve out of the port. If you want to do a quick check just take a Q-tip and swab around inside the vent hols of you exhaust valve actuators and if you strike oil you need to replace one. If you have one valve not open, 7000rpms is all it is going to run......
 

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i just had the same problem with my 700. the nut that holds the valve in the assembly stripped ut and then the valve got stuck half way open. huge rmp issues. i now have the updated valves and RED bellows. the thing just rips.

polaris is on thier 3rd generation of exaust valve material and design so that is why we suggest checking them out so strongly.

$200 and you can be completly sure of your valves by using the newest ones with the the red bellows.(just a thought)
 

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I would definately check your bellows, my sled was and maybe still is doing exactly what you stated. Once in a while from a stop it will pull R's then it just falls back down on its face.



I've been having rpm problems also, finally checked my bellows and the pto side inside and outside of the bellow was covered in oil. So I replaced the bellows (red ones). Took it out in the field and it ran great, I went up north and the problem was back. This time I checked the pto bellow the whole outside was covered with oil the inside was completely dry. So this time I cleaned everything real good and I'm hoping that they just didn't seal good. Anyone else have their bellows do this?
 

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]
I thought the new valve materials were only available for the 800's? I didn't think there were different valves for the 7's are you shure about this???[/b]

yes i am sure. when i went to the (good and knowledgeable) dealer, i asked why the new valves that they gave me looked and weighed different than my original ones. they replied by saying that polaris has had many problems with the material which they make thier valves out of and that the ones that i had just purchased are the newest ones and the lable on the packageing that they came in even said GEN:3. some dealers may not know a thing about the new valves or bellows, but trust me you need the ones that i am talking about along with the red bellows and pink SLP springs in order to get the correct results out of your 700.and oh yeah, the new ones are made of stainless and the originals are aluminum.


this is what happened to my PTO valve. EEEKKK!!!

the nut dealy stripped out along with the valve itself, causing the valve to be stuck half way open. the bellow was also leaking on that side.

[attachment=282594:IMGP0390.JPG][attachment=282591:IMGP0389.JPG]
 

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now those are some ugly looking valves. never seen one stripped out. its true about the new valve material. they all look the same on the outside (same coating...nickel i think it is) but its the base material thats now stainless instead of aluminum. i believe whan you use the new valves you have to goto a lighter spring to offset the added weight of the valve itself.

good luck
 

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now those are some ugly looking valves. never seen one stripped out. its true about the new valve material. they all look the same on the outside (same coating...nickel i think it is) but its the base material thats now stainless instead of aluminum. i believe whan you use the new valves you have to goto a lighter spring to offset the added weight of the valve itself.

good luck[/b]

this is all true to the best of my knowledge.
 
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