[BLABONTE]

Although I think I have my F-cat dialed in to my liking, can someone tell me, before I start ripping into it, if the hidden holes to a "standard's" limiter strap are behind the woody's backer plate at the top of the strap or the bottom? Thanks

 

[duality]

I'm not sure if your standard has them or not.I know my snopro has them and they are on the top side.

 

[mission6]

Top

 

[Roy T]

My standard has three holes on top -- came in the middle hole, and I'm gonna' try hole #1 (shortest strap length). My buddy said his standard had no extra hole in the limiters. BTW, really couldn't even see the other two holes on my straps until after you removed the Woody's backer! -- Roy

 

[duality]

I wonder why so many inconsistencies,my snopro was on the last hole(longest)and your saying your standard was in the middle and some people say theirs has no extra holes?I wonder if someone who hasn't changed theirs could get a measurement and compare the two.I will also mention that while going over mine that with the sled on the ground I found that my left side strap was shorter than the right side .Not by alot but I could feel the difference in tension from one side to the other.Dont know how much effect that has but when I moved holes I corrected for this.

 

[zr8000]

I found that my strap (std. version) does not have any extra holes? I definately need to shorten it, so should I just drill a couple extra holes? How do I do this without the strap "freying", and how far apart should I make them. Thanks!

 

[duality]

The pre-drilled holes in my strap were approximately 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch apart.A stud hole cutter would probably be your best bet or try using a glowing red hot punch to seal the hole after you drill it.I dont think there's much to worry about, the backer is what actually holds the two peices tight.

 

[green team7]

My standard had 3 holes located about 1/2" apart. I sucked mine up to the shortest position and ski lift is controlable. If you do not have them, I would use either a punch or the track drill to make new holes.

 

[rob]

Originally posted by redF5sp@Jan 2 2003, 07:26 AM
I wonder why so many inconsistencies,my snopro was on the last hole(longest)and your saying your standard was in the middle and some people say theirs has no extra holes?I wonder if someone who hasn't changed theirs could get a measurement and compare the two.I will also mention that while going over mine that with the sled on the ground I found that my left side strap was shorter than the right side .Not by alot but I could feel the difference in tension from one side to the other.Dont know how much effect that has but when I moved holes I corrected for this.

Larry and I measured limiter strap installed length over a month ago and reported at that time that the Snopro has a longer installed length. It appears that the Snopros come through with the strap in the longest position (last hole) and the regular suspensions come through in the middle hole.

I would advise to NOT use the shortest hole. If you do, you will be compromising rear arm suspension travel. The middle hole is fine as long as you back the IFS springs to a low position or even then you will be loosing rear arm travel.

 

[duality]

Rob,I,m slightly confused by your last response,you say"as long as you back the IFS springs to a low position" are you refering to the ski springs or the skids front shock?If your refering to the ski's ,would those need to be adjusted after you tightened the limiter strap?I already had them as loose as I could safely,do i re check them?

 

[rob]

Originally posted by redF5sp@Jan 2 2003, 08:03 AM
Rob,I,m slightly confused by your last response,you say"as long as you back yhe IFS springs to a low position" are you refering to the ski springs or the skids front shock?If your refering to the ski's ,would those need to be adjusted after you tightened the limiter strap?I already had them as loose as I could safely,do i re check them?

this is hard to explain without a diagram..

I was referring to the ski iFS springs. they should be set so that the retainer is just barely held in place with the front of sled elevated.. it sounds like yours are correct.

Think of the sled with 3 contact points, the skis, front arm, and rear arm. With no rider, all 3 should evenly contact a level surface (garage floor). If you alter one of these 3 contact points, it is going to affect the other two. In the case of the limiter straps, if you shorten the limiter strap with the ski springs set with a lot of preload, it pulls the middle contact point away from the level position, and the rear arm will slightly compress to make up for it. You can see this by lifting the sled by the bumper. With a shorter limiter strap and high IFS preload, there will be a "dead area" on the rear arm where you lift and the back of the track remains on the ground. You are actually lifting the front of the track off the ground first, if you can see what I mean. Now, if you LOWER the FRONT of the 3 contact points by removing preload from the skis (thereby lowering the front of the sled), you bring the front of the skid back into firm contact with the ground. So with a limiter strap in the middle hole and the ski preload at minimum, the entire skid comes off the ground at the same time as you lift the rear bumper and there is no "lost travel" in the rear arm.

But there is no way to compensate enough for having the limiter strap in the shortest position. You WILL lose effective travel if you do that. I advise NOT TO use the shortest hole on the straps.

Does all of that make any sence? :wacko:

 

[duality]

perfectly clear,thanks for the explanation.