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Discussion Starter #1
OK, this is kind of hard to explain..

If you pull the limiter strap up to the 3rd hole you lose rear arm travel, and here is why.

Idealy, when you lift the rear of your sled, the front and rear of the track should contact level ground at the same time, (as in the graphic below picture a. the thin black line represents level ground.

If you shorten the limiter strap too much, you pull up the front of the track, so that the REAR of the track contacts the ground first, as in picture b.

Of course, a sled can't sit like that, so what happens? the rear arm sags from the sleds weight and you start off with the rear arm partially compressed even before you sit on it, as in picture c.

Try this yourself, on a garage floor. Have someone pick up the rear of your sled and see if the whole track touches at the same time, or if the rear touches first.
 

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This is not a limiter strap question but as a guide how loose can you back off the front spring? Can the spring be loose with no rider and prelaod the spring with the riders weight?

Assuming that the limiter strap is in the middle hole.

Good post!
 

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I noticed the same thing when I pulled the limit strap up one hole,but I left it that way last weekend and did'nt notice any change in the ride ,so I put it back to the middle hole.This weekend I tried a set of six inch Woodys Dooleys and the under steer is gone.I can now have confidence when going into a corner .I know you dont like the cheap way out Rob, but these things really work,it is just like driving a car,no dart or nervous twitch ,just strait ahead.
 

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I AM 250# WITH ALL GEAR ON. PUT STRAP IN 3RD HOLE.PUT IN SNO PRO REAR SPRINGS AND CORRECTED TOWOUT. I HAVE 1 1/2 THREAD LEFT ON FRONT SPRINGS.IT USED TO VERY TIPPY HAD TO SLOW WAY DOWN FOR CORNERS BUT NOW IS MORE LIKE MY ZR. VERY HAPPY WITH THIS SET UP!! :D
 

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Hey Rob,

When you put your SLP skis on did you happen to measure the front bumper to the ground? I'm curious if they added height, which in turn added more pressure to your front of the sled. This measurement may be difficult to do because of the interaction between the front and real suspension. Scales would be the best.

Dan...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dan, I don't know the measurement, but they didn't add any height. the ski bolt is recessed into the ski, and the same distance off the ground.
 

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:unsure: OK--I'm 130-135 lbs. I ride more on the aggressive side. I like a stiff suspension...(don't go there). I have a Standard F7 with TA graphics...where should my limiter strap be? Middle? I would ask hubby, but when I tell him I want to change anything...he gets ticked...LOL! I beat him as it is! LOL! :lol:
 

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I'm a little confused. I got the back front shock how it is supposed to be, as loose as it can go without the retainer falling off. The front shocks on the skis is where I am confused. The tighter the springs, the more ski pressure right? So why would we want to loosen them up? Right now I have probably about 2 1/2" thread exposed (came from dealer like that). So I should loosen these up? BTW, its a standard suspension F7. One other thing, right now, how the springs are adjusted they don't hit the a-arms (about 1/4" clearence). If I adjust them, whats going to happen? Anyone with standard suspensions have their springs rubbing? Does it do much damage to the paint? I can live with a little bit I guess...
 

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I've got my front shock under skide plate loose, limiter strap in the middle hole, and IFS loose on a F7 SP. What are the results of stiffening the IFS shocks?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by 1FastCat@Jan 28 2003, 09:23 AM
I'm a little confused. I got the back front shock how it is supposed to be, as loose as it can go without the retainer falling off. The front shocks on the skis is where I am confused. The tighter the springs, the more ski pressure right? So why would we want to loosen them up? Right now I have probably about 2 1/2" thread exposed (came from dealer like that). So I should loosen these up? BTW, its a standard suspension F7. One other thing, right now, how the springs are adjusted they don't hit the a-arms (about 1/4" clearence). If I adjust them, whats going to happen? Anyone with standard suspensions have their springs rubbing? Does it do much damage to the paint? I can live with a little bit I guess...
Jacking the IFS springs up don't do anything for the "push" with the stock skis, and the added front end height makes for more of the "tippy" sensation (I tried it). Firecat just feels better down low. The push is a ski/carbide problem mainly, and should be corrected with aftermarket skis, (or at least more aggressive carbides).
 

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1FastCat
Anyone with standard suspensions have their springs rubbing?

My springs on my shocks hit the upright in the full jounce conditon(front of sled lifted up no weight on the skis) this scraped the paint off the springs. I flipped the shock and spring assembly around and problem solved. Plus it makes it much easier to adjusted when they are in this orientation. The spring never hit the upper control arm.
 

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f7 sno pro. middle hole on limiter strap, coupler # 2, Grip n Rip racing spring blocks # 2, Front skid shock 5 turns after completely loose, and finally front aws shocks 3 inches thread exposed top of shock. I weigh 210 pounds and ditch bang, Rob's settings work nicely for trail riding but I found I need some preload to keep from bottoming out. Sno tech mag claims it's the driver's I feel when hitting a bump/ coming off a jump etc, dont know for sure but this set up works best for me. Oh 6 inch shaper bars...
 
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