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Does anyone know how to lean out the cylinder with out re jetting the carbs. 1995 ZRT800 runs great when its cold but keeps fouling clutch side plug when it gets to about 25 degrees, I believe that you move the E clip on the gullitine but I'm not 100% sure, or do I know which way way to move it. We are going out for the last ride of the year on weds and thur, the weather here in central Ont (Haliburton) will be on the warm side so I dont want to be changing plugs every 25 miles, this has been a thorn in kittys claw for about a month now, any help would be appreciated.
 

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you should re jet it, my old zrt was very rich.
i put 5 2'' holes in the air box, and went from 360's
to310's .it helped a lot.the sled breathed very good.
if you open the air box.....you will want to read your plug's
and check the piston wash.
 

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Thanks Alleycat, but I should have mentioned that it has K&N air filters on it. The sled ran great untill about a month ago, it just keeps fouling the clutch side plug when it gets warm out, it is jetted rich, but the other cylinders are fine, nice clean burn on plugs, put a hotter burning plug in clutch side cylinder it helped but did not eliminate the fouling problem. I just want a quick fix for last ride, I plan on redoing the whole air gas side during the summer, or dumping the sled, I also have a 1997 ZRT600 that rocks, it blows the 800 every where, start, middle, full out end of lake, all!!! Asa matter of fact it has never been beaten by any 600 and only one 700 (Mach 1) at the end of the lake. I plan on keeping the 600 and spring ordering the stealh F7.
 

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This sounds like it may be an electrical, or ignition problem, not a jetting or fuel problem. This is a recent problem on only one cylinder. It used to be fine then it started acting different from the others, and different from before. That is what I got from your post. Check the coil for that plug. Check the plug cap and cap to plug wire connection. Have you tried swapping the plug cap/wire with the next cylinder? does the problem follow the cap/wire? Easy and cheap test and then you can really start to track down the problem.
 

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Actually it's common for the PTO to run different.

No quick fix though. You HAVE to rejet. I'm in the same boat. I rejet often.

NEXT time install a Holtzman tempaflow. I've heard great things about them.
OR EFI!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes guys i have switched the wires around but the clutch side cylinder still fouls plugs, they are wet and black, the choke cables appears to be OK. I have never rejetted a carb, and my experience with them ( all carbs, lawnmower, chain saw, snowblower) has been nothing but trouble, so I,m trying to stay away from the carbs, unless some one could give me fool proof instructions on hoe to rejet the carbs. Any volunteers out there?
 

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no it is not common for a tripple,pto side to run different since the cooling passages are staggered{small}mag side to larger as they move toward the pto side.after reading all of your posts,i would have to think that you have a stuck choke plunger on the clutch side,or improper adjustment.remove carb. shine flashlight through choke port venturi side,if you see light when choke is in closed position on the other side,then you need to unstick or adjust.if it is stuck open,it will pump added fuel through choke port enrichening that side.
 

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1) Take off you airbox. (You may have to take off the Coil and fuel shut off assembly)
2) Slowly rotate it up and away from the carbs
3) Loosen the intake boot clamps
4) Drain the carbs ( The clear hose hanging from the bottom )
5) Rotate the assembly up to see the float bowls.

NOW if I were you. you can change the jets but undoing the 11/16" Jet access. BUt I would unscrew the float bowl and remove it.

6) You can now change the jets. Don't forget the washer!!!
7) Get a good carb cleaner and clean the float bowl area and spray some down the slide area. ( I know you should dissassemble it to really clean it. But if you change jets enough and do this it stays cleaner longer )
8) Inspect the floats, Pilot jets etc. Reassemble and rotate back into the boots Make sure they are all the way in!
9) Make sure the guilltines are opening and closing the same.
10) Remove the shelve out of the airbox.
11) put on the airbox. make sure the carb vent tubes are on the carb and inside the airbox.
12) Line up the airbox boots to the carbs. Put in the shelve and tighten it up.

This should take you about 45 minutes once you get good.
 

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Originally posted by ZRT700@Mar 18 2003, 07:48 PM
Yes guys i have switched the wires around but the clutch side cylinder still fouls plugs, they are wet and black, the choke cables appears to be OK. I have never rejetted a carb, and my experience with them ( all carbs, lawnmower, chain saw, snowblower) has been nothing but trouble, so I,m trying to stay away from the carbs, unless some one could give me fool proof instructions on hoe to rejet the carbs. Any volunteers out there?
My concern is still that you said it was fine and then it changed. If it was fine before then changing jets is not what you should do, or, I believe, you run the risk of melting that piston. It looks like you proved it is not an ignition/spark problem. That would now point to a carb problem and main jets don't just decide to change sizes all of a sudden with all things otherwise being as they should. It really sounds like you have a sticking choke, now that we know it is not the spark, and if you jet down that cylinder and the choke frees itself you could be too lean. That carb should come off the sled and be cleaned, but if a jet or passage is blocked with something foreign that should cause a lean condition not a rich condition unless it is a float or inlet problem. The choke passage should be cleaned so the plunger can seat properly and the choke cable at the top of the plunger should be adjusted if it has gotten out of whack. Even if you don't clean inside the carb I think the least you should do is unscrew the choke plunger, spray it with carb cleaner, brake cleaner or WD-40, spray the choke passage on the carb and reinstall it. You may not even have to remove the carb to do that and it is cheaper and easier than replacing a piston.
 
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