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Back when I used to use fluid film, I bought it by the gallon, and then would set the tin can in front of my bullet heater, very close, until it thinned out enough that I could blow it through a 1/4” under coating gun. Isn’t cosmoline even thicker? What are you guys pumping that with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
I'm sure Krown is just as good as Fluid Film.
And I'm sure Fluid Film is just as good as Krown, except Krown comes with a warranty but you need to pay them to apply it and apply it their way.
 

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I am sold on Fluid Film. I now have the Fluid Film 'black' applied every year. Looks great!!
I started off day one with new oil, then used oil, and for that past 15 years it's been fluid film EVERY year (sometimes spring and fall, probably overkill). I also started getting the unlimited Delta Sonic washes in the winter (pre-covid and work from home, lol).

Might sound crazy and overkill, but my 2001 Tundra still looks new today.

I'm sure Krown is just as good as Fluid Film.
I guess it depends where you are if using fluid flim. We get a lot of rain and freezing rain in the winters here. Roads are wet with lot of salt and brine used on them. I did fluid flim on my tundra every year in the fall, probably should have repeated it twice a year, but i still had a fair amount of surface rust on my 2001 tundra after 19 years before i sold it. Maybe the higher traveling mileage to work every day took its tool to on those wet roads. The good thing was the body and chrome bumpers were still like new.
With using cosmoline this time on the tacoma, its been one, and done so far. Thats one job i'm glad not to repeat every year.
 

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Back when I used to use fluid film, I bought it by the gallon, and then would set the tin can in front of my bullet heater, very close, until it thinned out enough that I could blow it through a 1/4” under coating gun. Isn’t cosmoline even thicker? What are you guys pumping that with?
RP-342 cosmoline is the same thickness as the fluid flim i used, maybe even thinner. The amber, or you can get the black version now, drips into everything....its one messy job spraying that stuff on. I used the six pack rattle can method.
 

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Back when I used to use fluid film, I bought it by the gallon, and then would set the tin can in front of my bullet heater, very close, until it thinned out enough that I could blow it through a 1/4” under coating gun. Isn’t cosmoline even thicker? What are you guys pumping that with?
RP 342 actually sells a pump sprayer you can use to spray there product
and I have seen it used in a good under coating sprayer as well,
as stated its about the same thickness of fluid film
if you do it it warmer months, it sprays easier, as doesn't be as thick and no need to heat it up

the spray cans they have work pretty well too, if I had a grip about them, I wish they had longer hoses and the hose was built into the nozzle, as when I did my truck, the dam straw would pop off quite often and its NO fun trying to stick it back on when your hands and straw have that stuff on them!
I used rattle cans to do my truck(2500 ram 4 door .,6.5ft bed, and it took me 24 cans to do two coats as they recommend!
buying in bulk, they give a discount, I think I paid like 8 bucks a can, as to there now MUCH higher prices, by buying in bulk!

I plan to touch up a few spots this fall, and debating on buying a gallon can, over rattle cans, due to I have a decent air spray gun! mostly due to, I want to get the inside of the frame coated better than what I was able to do with the rattle cans!
 

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RP 342 actually sells a pump sprayer you can use to spray there product
and I have seen it used in a good under coating sprayer as well,
as stated its about the same thickness of fluid film
if you do it it warmer months, it sprays easier, as doesn't be as thick and no need to heat it up

the spray cans they have work pretty well too, if I had a grip about them, I wish they had longer hoses and the hose was built into the nozzle, as when I did my truck, the dam straw would pop off quite often and its NO fun trying to stick it back on when your hands and straw have that stuff on them!
I used rattle cans to do my truck(2500 ram 4 door .,6.5ft bed, and it took me 24 cans to do two coats as they recommend!
buying in bulk, they give a discount, I think I paid like 8 bucks a can, as to there now MUCH higher prices, by buying in bulk!

I plan to touch up a few spots this fall, and debating on buying a gallon can, over rattle cans, due to I have a decent air spray gun! mostly due to, I want to get the inside of the frame coated better than what I was able to do with the rattle cans!
6 cans pretty much handled the entire coverage under my truck. I'm more amazed how good its stay on after more than 2 years. The fluid flim would have been history by now. I found a six pak deal for the rp-342 on ebay...it cost me just under $80 back in 2020. I've heard the cost per can now is crazy, but the stuff really stays there.
 

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That’s why I’d only consider the gallons,or even the five gallon pail. I seen that pump up sprayer they sell. I assume that’s a joke, since I have the exact same sprayer and it will barely pump Thompson water seal, which is about the consistency of a soft drink. They must have a much larger nozzle in theirs. I have automotive paint spray equipment and two undercoating guns, and years ago anyway fluid film was almost as thick as hand lotion. Thicker than honey or latex paint. Even at room temp. No way would it spray without heating. Maybe they’ve thinned out/cheapened the product
 

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My grandfather had a gallon of cosmoline 25-30 years ago. I remember him dabbing a rag at it, and smearing it only his garden rototiller blades and plow blades before storage. Back then it was 100% as thick as wheel bearing grease. No way would that ever wear off your truck….once you troweled it on there. Probably would hold about 1000 lbs of sand stuck to it too. I couldn’t have that “look”, although, it surely would protect the metal underneath
 

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My grandfather had a gallon of cosmoline 25-30 years ago. I remember him dabbing a rag at it, and smearing it only his garden rototiller blades and plow blades before storage. Back then it was 100% as thick as wheel bearing grease. No way would that ever wear off your truck….once you troweled it on there. Probably would hold about 1000 lbs of sand stuck to it too. I couldn’t have that “look”, although, it surely would protect the metal underneath
the RP 342 stuff dry's and doesn't stay tacky, so nothing sticks to it, and it doesn;t come off with normal washing or a garden hose, so its not pure cosmoline per say, its a combination it and I gather some other things to allow it to bond and cure to the surface

this is, why they state you should really do 2 coats , first one, covers things, but as it cures there can be smaller imperfections that get missed as it cures or just missed, and then the second coat covers things more consistently, which allows it to work as well as it can
 

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6 cans pretty much handled the entire coverage under my truck. I'm more amazed how good its stay on after more than 2 years. The fluid flim would have been history by now. I found a six pak deal for the rp-342 on ebay...it cost me just under $80 back in 2020. I've heard the cost per can now is crazy, but the stuff really stays there.
did you you 2 coats and do the whole inside of your frame, and also back side of all the body panels?/ I even did the inside of my tailgate, due to tailgates on Ram/Dodges are known to rust out , as the way they designed things, is when parked with front end higher than rear, water in bed runs into the inside of the tailgate, and its salty water gets in, it ends up eating out the inside over time!

as I did mine in 2021 just after I had a few grand in rust warranty work done??(2016 truck) rust claim started in 2018 and took till 2021 for them to process and fix??)

and it took me a lot more cans than you used for me to do it all with two coats, HAHA!

I also have a full size truck as to your Toyota, so sure that is part of things too!
and I still have spots I either didn;t coat as well as I thought or missed, or where it just came off due to chipping from stones(live on a gravel road and often on like roads) that I need to re coat again, to ensure it works as good as it can!
 

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That’s why I’d only consider the gallons,or even the five gallon pail. I seen that pump up sprayer they sell. I assume that’s a joke, since I have the exact same sprayer and it will barely pump Thompson water seal, which is about the consistency of a soft drink. They must have a much larger nozzle in theirs. I have automotive paint spray equipment and two undercoating guns, and years ago anyway fluid film was almost as thick as hand lotion. Thicker than honey or latex paint. Even at room temp. No way would it spray without heating. Maybe they’ve thinned out/cheapened the product
I think its more about the type of nozzle a pump like that uses, than the actual air psi needed to spray it. The cosmoline in rattle cans are about the same consistency as spraying a similar can of paint.
did you you 2 coats and do the whole inside of your frame, and also back side of all the body panels?/ I even did the inside of my tailgate, due to tailgates on Ram/Dodges are known to rust out , as the way they designed things, is when parked with front end higher than rear, water in bed runs into the inside of the tailgate, and its salty water gets in, it ends up eating out the inside over time!

as I did mine in 2021 just after I had a few grand in rust warranty work done??(2016 truck) rust claim started in 2018 and took till 2021 for them to process and fix??)

and it took me a lot more cans than you used for me to do it all with two coats, HAHA!

I also have a full size truck as to your Toyota, so sure that is part of things too!
and I still have spots I either didn;t coat as well as I thought or missed, or where it just came off due to chipping from stones(live on a gravel road and often on like roads) that I need to re coat again, to ensure it works as good as it can!
I did the high wear areas on the trucks chassis with 2 coats, like in all the wheel wells, rear leaf springs, and front/rear differential areas. As far as inside, and outsides of the frame. I did the sections inside the frame that toyota didn't do with their crc corrosion inhibitor which is basically cosmoline, but less expensive, plus i coated the entire frame outside. Bed is composite so that likely saved me a couple cans. Boy does that stuff stink if you get any on the exhaust system.
 

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Their own spray gun works pretty well. And the hoses they come with for getting the hard to reach spots make it a breeze. I don't know how you guys are getting it to drip all over the place. I'm on my third five gallon bucket since I started using and haven't had that problem. I have a box of rubber body plugs for the times I have to drill a hole to get into a spot, like doors. My only complaint with the stuff, is it's hard to load the spray gun because the stuff doesn't flow. But it sprays just fine.
 

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Their own spray gun works pretty well. And the hoses they come with for getting the hard to reach spots make it a breeze. I don't know how you guys are getting it to drip all over the place. I'm on my third five gallon bucket since I started using and haven't had that problem. I have a box of rubber body plugs for the times I have to drill a hole to get into a spot, like doors. My only complaint with the stuff, is it's hard to load the spray gun because the stuff doesn't flow. But it sprays just fine.
Thats a lot of fluid flim. I don't think i used that much on my tundra in all the years i owned it. Maybe i should of used it more often than once a year.
I think it depends on the vehicle when you need to start drilling holes to get that stuff inside the panels. I never did the rockers or elsewhere on my old truck and they never had a speck of rust in nearly 20 years.
 

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On my Ford/GM’s I’ve always considered the rocker panels to be highest priority. They have plugs in them, (as well as random open holes that I’ve experimented with plugging in an attempt to keep salt Out), but I always pump a lot of product into rockers.
Then it drips onto the running boards.
 

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Thats a lot of fluid flim. I don't think i used that much on my tundra in all the years i owned it. Maybe i should of used it more often than once a year.
I think it depends on the vehicle when you need to start drilling holes to get that stuff inside the panels. I never did the rockers or elsewhere on my old truck and they never had a speck of rust in nearly 20 years.
I should have specified it's not one one vehicle, I use it at work on a small municipal fleet.
 

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On my Ford/GM’s I’ve always considered the rocker panels to be highest priority. They have plugs in them, (as well as random open holes that I’ve experimented with plugging in an attempt to keep salt Out), but I always pump a lot of product into rockers.
Then it drips onto the running boards.
they put the holes in things so if water gets in it can drain, when you seal them up, you typically make things worse,a s water will creep into places as well as condensation
its why places like them are normally the first places to rust, minus spots salt builds up and stays in longer!

this is again, why I wish OEM's would start using better coatings over what they use now
there are a LOT of better paints and likes that can stand up to water and chemicals better
and with the price of today's new vehicles, it shouldn;t be asking too much for them to last longer from rusting out!,
Hell it should be down right expected!
vehicles motors are lasting longer than ever, yet body's are not, nor frames, should; be a dam crime how fast they can be eating by road salt that wee have NO choice but to drive in!
need a fancy greedy lawyer to start a class action suit against DOT"S and there salt that eats our vehicles HAHA!
 
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