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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i picked up this used 97 powder extreme from this guy. It has 3,300 miles. He kinda has some things jimmied up that i inted to fix.

Like he put a polaris clutch on it cause he likes them better? and the recoil cover sits at a weird angle so it doesnt recoil every time.

I got it for 1k dollars so its a pretty good deal as long as it doesnt break down on me.. :cn:

Questions

1. any online manuals for it so i can get to know it better?

2. he told me when i got ready to fire it up and start doing maintance things on it, that i shouldnt run it for more than 4-5 mins because snow needs to hit under the tunel to keep it cool? and doesnt over heat? kinda puzzled me.

Thanks for all the help. this is my first sled and just looking for something fun!
 

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Originally posted by phatdoughnut@Sep 23 2005, 10:44 AM
i picked up this used 97 powder extreme from this guy. It has 3,300 miles. He kinda has some things jimmied up that i inted to fix.

Like he put a polaris clutch on it cause he likes them better? and the recoil cover sits at a weird angle so it doesnt recoil every time.

I got it for 1k dollars so its a pretty good deal as long as it doesnt break down on me..  :cn:

Questions

1. any online manuals for it so i can get to know it better?

2. he told me when i got ready to fire it up and start doing maintance things on it, that i shouldnt run it for more than 4-5 mins because snow needs to hit under the tunel to keep it cool? and doesnt over heat? kinda puzzled me.

Thanks for all the help. this is my first sled and just looking for something fun!
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On liquid cooled sleds the heat exchangers do depend on snow hitting them to provide proper cooling. Your sled should have two heat exchangers, one at the front of the tunnel and one at the rear. Look up into the unnel from underneath and you will be able to see finned aluminum extrusions at the front an back of the tunnel. One tip for proper warm-up I can offer is to wait until the rear heat exchanger gets nice and warm before riding the sled. You want the engine to be well warmed up before riding to prevent damaging the cylinders and pistons.

I don't know of any online service manuals, but I would recommend ordering a Cat service manual because you will have to do work on the sled. When you buy used a sled, and especially a low cost one, it will require work to give you confidence that you won't have to walk back on your first ride. You should be able to get an Owner's Manual for free from Arctic Cat, but you do have to write to them and request one. The request must be by post, not email.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sweet awesome!

Just what i wanted to know, the owner before me said he had just re-rigned it.

And he also said that i need to drain the tank and carb bowls before i run it, to clear any condensation out of the tank. Is this a common problem on snowmobiles?

oh yeah and is this powder extreme considered a ZR?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Of course! sorry i dont know all the models HAHA!

but i did call the artic cat dealer, and they said they can get me a recoil for like 75 bucks used.

blah and he said i need a service manual not an owners manual, which might be expensive because they put acouple models together in one manual sigh.

well i hope i got a nice machine..
 

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Originally posted by phatdoughnut@Sep 23 2005, 12:46 PM
Sweet awesome!

Just what i wanted to know, the owner before me said he had just re-rigned it.

And he also said that i need to drain the tank and carb bowls before i run it, to clear any condensation out of the tank. Is this a common problem on snowmobiles?

oh yeah and is this powder extreme considered a ZR?
<div align="right">index.php?act=findpost&pid=888775
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Condensation is no more common in snowmobiles than any other motorized vehicle. Condensation is the result of temperature changes inside the tank, or container. I always clean the carbs at the start of every season, even with stabilizer in the fuel. If you have a clogged jet you can quickly melt a piston or two and ruin the cylinders as well. I pull the carbs, remove the float bowl and floats and spray carb cleaner through every port. If there is green gunk, or varnish in the float bowl, then remove the main and pilot jets to inspect them for blockage. if they are blocked, or have residue that does not disappear with a blast from the carb cleaner, just replace with new jets so you know you have clean, unobstructed fuel flow.

I think you can get a manual for $22 from Brown's Leisure World.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sweet you guys are the awesomests, iposted another question about the oil injection system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
:beer: Well i got the tank drained last night, kind of a pita to take the tank/seat off huh? its like one unit.

So i was looking around on the engine and i couldnt find a fill hole for the oil. Any insight would help.

sorry if im sound like dumbass but i didnt have 25 bucks to spare this week to buy a manual stupid rent and dsl bill. :beer:
 

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what kind of oil, injector oil? if so there should be a plastic resivoir. if you mean add oil like you add oil to your car you wont find one...its a 2 stroke :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hmm, so no crank case oil? no oil lubrication needed what so ever for the crank or chain case?

i always thought my friends CR250 used oil in the crank.. sigh
 

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Originally posted by phatdoughnut@Sep 27 2005, 09:22 PM
hmm, so no crank case oil? no oil lubrication needed what so ever for the crank or chain case?

i always thought my friends CR250 used oil in the crank.. sigh
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my bad, there should be a plug in the chaincase to add chaincase oil, and one in the inside of the tunnel near the track to drain it. some people run atf fluid in there for less friction, but id just stick with chaincase oil.

by the way the chaincase is under the hood on the right side of the sled, all the way back. the cover on it is a big oval with a few screws holding it on
 

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Originally posted by phatdoughnut@Sep 27 2005, 03:58 PM
:beer: Well i got the tank drained last night, kind of a pita to take the tank/seat off huh? its like one unit.

So i was looking around on the engine and i couldnt find a fill hole for the oil. Any insight would help.

sorry if im sound like dumbass but i didnt have 25 bucks to spare this week to buy a manual stupid rent and dsl bill. :beer:
<div align="right">index.php?act=findpost&pid=895884
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This is a two stoke engine, so the lubricating oil is injected with the fuel into the intake. The fuel and oil mixture enters the crankcase and then goes on to the combustion chamber through transfer ports. That is how the crank and bearings get lubricated. The oil resevoir should be just above the break disc and chaincase.
 
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