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Discussion Starter #1
I bought this sled at the end of winter (never owned a sled so i didnt really know what to look at when inspecting it), didn't try it out, turned out to be a money pit more than i thought, 1 of the brake side bearings was seized, changed those, the sprockets were abnormaly used. (pics below)

Here are my questions:

-Why is there some wear in the inside of the track? because of the seized bearing? broken sprocket?

-Can i use it without being scared? (whats the worst that can happen)

-Some chunks are missing on the outside of the track but it doesn't seem too bad overall?

-Can i remove the studs even though it will leave a hole? And ride the next season without studs?


Like i said above, this is my first sled, question may seem stupid, but i just want it to be reliable.











 

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2014 ZR8000lxr 19-20 mileage = 904.5
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Usable but for someone who only does low miles a year IMO. Like 100mi a year would be safe to say. I wouldn't take it on a trip for 1000mi anywhere.

Steve
 

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Last time i saw damage like that to the drivers, the track got so loose it constantly ratcheted causing the drivers to wear excessively....track ended up junk to.
 

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i wouldn't trust that track at all. You can find good used ones for a couple hundred, especially at this time of year, and the drivers can be found used as well. Be very surprised if you can't get this up and running for $400-$500. Check all the bearings as if one is shot, then you can certainly expect more. Bearings are not overly expensive and is part of regular maintenance.

Sleds are not cheap to maintain, but if you can get ahead of the game by doing the big things first, you'll be in good shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i wouldn't trust that track at all. You can find good used ones for a couple hundred, especially at this time of year, and the drivers can be found used as well. Be very surprised if you can't get this up and running for $400-$500. Check all the bearings as if one is shot, then you can certainly expect more. Bearings are not overly expensive and is part of regular maintenance.

Sleds are not cheap to maintain, but if you can get ahead of the game by doing the big things first, you'll be in good shape.
As of now, i have replaced, the 2 drivers, 2 APV cables, fix the cracked bulkhead because of the loose motor mounts, will be pouring in duro 60 in all 3 mounts, changed the center shock, had to had a bar machined for the shock because the old one was bent. will need to change the track, changed all the bearings on the skid and replaced disc and pads. And since i didnt know what to check. i paid 2500$ Cad for the sled. Thats why i aint too happy about it atm.
steering riser is also broken, mechanical fuel gauge isnt working and oil lvl sensor is not working either.. so yeah bought a money pit
 

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I see it's a CFR Cat. How many miles on it what year and what motor? If it's a 1000 I wouldn't run that track and you might not have over paid if it runs good. Is it the 136 inch track. If so I know where there's one studded and in excellent shape he's asking $300 Canadian off my old sled. It's in eastern Ontario. Most CFR's were shorter track but it looks like longer in the pic.
 

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As of now, i have replaced, the 2 drivers, 2 APV cables, fix the cracked bulkhead because of the loose motor mounts, will be pouring in duro 60 in all 3 mounts, changed the center shock, had to had a bar machined for the shock because the old one was bent. will need to change the track, changed all the bearings on the skid and replaced disc and pads. And since i didnt know what to check. i paid 2500$ Cad for the sled. Thats why i aint too happy about it atm.
steering riser is also broken, mechanical fuel gauge isnt working and oil lvl sensor is not working either.. so yeah bought a money pit
holy shit man, the guy was for sure doing fist bumps with his bros on that sale. What a mess that sled was in! sorry to hear about this. Cost wouldn't be too prohibitive if there were minimal issues as every sled IMO will need some type of work when you buy it. If it's any consolation, they aren't all that bad, but with anything that's older, you should bring someone who knows those particular sleds and the recurrent issues that come with them. All sleds of any brand will have specific issues, just have to do some research and see what they are.

Feel for you on this. On the bright side, i'm assuming you're fixing this on your own and you've probably saved big bucks just on your own labour.
 

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Wow...........Are you in Canada? I have tons of Firecat parts. I'm in midstate Mich. Hdal
Yes, im in Quebec, Canada.

I see it's a CFR Cat. How many miles on it what year and what motor? If it's a 1000 I wouldn't run that track and you might not have over paid if it runs good. Is it the 136 inch track. If so I know where there's one studded and in excellent shape he's asking $300 Canadian off my old sled. It's in eastern Ontario. Most CFR's were shorter track but it looks like longer in the pic.
Cfr 800 2011, with 10 000km
It's a 128"x15 2.52 pitch :(

holy shit man, the guy was for sure doing fist bumps with his bros on that sale. What a mess that sled was in! sorry to hear about this. Cost wouldn't be too prohibitive if there were minimal issues as every sled IMO will need some type of work when you buy it. If it's any consolation, they aren't all that bad, but with anything that's older, you should bring someone who knows those particular sleds and the recurrent issues that come with them. All sleds of any brand will have specific issues, just have to do some research and see what they are.

Feel for you on this. On the bright side, i'm assuming you're fixing this on your own and you've probably saved big bucks just on your own labour.
Yes i'm fixing it by myself, i'm a transmission specialist at a dealership so i have pretty good knowledge on taking things apart :)
As of now, i wouldnt hesitate to go and check another one out with what i know on them now. But hey, gotta learn the hard way i guess!
 

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looks like a lot of l.o.m on his part seen worse track on guys sleds you can remove the studs and the track will be fine just keep a eye on it. Make sure to get a back up track. good luck
 

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seeing it's a 2011, it's not a terrible price for that sled. I'd do it right and just grab some used drivers, press them back on and get a better track for it. I'm not a big fan of studs, but then again, i drive in Manitoba where it's either cold or warm and not much in between, so when it melts, it melts fast and no real need for studs. A 128 track won't break the bank. Looks like you're well on your way in any case
 

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Discussion Starter #13
seeing it's a 2011, it's not a terrible price for that sled. I'd do it right and just grab some used drivers, press them back on and get a better track for it. I'm not a big fan of studs, but then again, i drive in Manitoba where it's either cold or warm and not much in between, so when it melts, it melts fast and no real need for studs. A 128 track won't break the bank. Looks like you're well on your way in any case
I already put new drivers on, pressed them on this week actually. you can see on picture #2, as for the studs i would rather it slide around rather than gripping hard. its probably easier on the whole sled i guess. If i can find some extroverted drivers already pressed on a shaft, if its interchangable. id rather do that if its possible and remove the studs. rather than buying a 700$ track. just gathering more info at the moment to see all options available and if its doable.

From what im reading the OEM track is a 14" and this is a 15" so maybe it has something to do with the fact that this one is chewed up?
 

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yeah, the track would be 14" so you get these things happening when you buy a used sled. I usually buy mine blown up and then fix them the way that i need to and then i know it's good. The guy probably found a good deal on the track and used it
 

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15" track fits. Studs, leaving in or taking out, isn't related to the driver nubs being worn on the inside. If you don't want studs, take them out. I would probably take them out, as one ripped out already and others might be about to. The driver nub wear on the inside idnt good, but it'll be ok. Having the 10t drivers will help (opposed to sleds with less) The guy just ran the track loose, rode like an animal, and likely hit some stuff before. What you can do though, is put the track on backwards so that the drivers are pressing against the sides of the nubs that are not torn/worn. It'll be just fine. Although I agree with these guys, used 128" tracks are cheap. 13.5/14/15 they all fit.
 

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I have a nearly new 14x128x1 Cat track studded up the middle that I'll sell. Live in West Quebec $400. Has about 800 miles on it had on my Z1 turbo. At $2500 it's not over priced I'd say. Very dependable setup and fast.
 

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2500 be good, with 3k miles, but at 10k, I'd be opening up the diamond drive and looking at the Pistons and clutches.
 

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If it's 10000 km's that's only 6200 miles. I've always run and had good results up to 10000 miles before I'd worry about any engine issues. Don't forget it's a Suzuki engine. Diamond Drive I agree should at least do a good check on it. The biggest issue with DD's was lack of fluid changes. If it was neglected then do the bearings. I've got well over 11000 miles on my Z1 and changed fluid regularly with no problems. It's still original everything and never misses a beat. My bud I ride with has a 2010 Z1 LTD with 25000 miles and still on all original DD.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
2500 be good, with 3k miles, but at 10k, I'd be opening up the diamond drive and looking at the Pistons and clutches.
Diamond drive was opened, i changed bearings and seals (which were fine), pistons didnt look too bad, and cyl still had the cross hatches in them. compression was at 121 cold ,primary is a CV-tech clutch.
 
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