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Discussion Starter #1
I've done the drive clutch weights before on a sled; so, I probaly won't need any info there. What I do not know how to do is swapping the helix on the drivin clutch. I hope someone doesn't mind a bit of typing to help me out. I'd like to get this baby on asap. Here's a pic of the kit part #DP3. TIA
 

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First make some marks so you put it back the same way. Then You will need a way to keep it compressed while you take out the bolts. After you get thats off, the helix is held on by 3 or 4 small screws (I think they are torx head). The hardest part is putting it back together, and turning it so the bolt holes line up. I know this isn't the greatest explanation....Maybe someone will give you more details.

BTW...that's the same helix D&D uses if their clutch kit.
 

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It is a very steep helix - and it works like a charm!!! FAST CITY, my friend. The best way to accomplish this task is to have a second pair of hands in for the job. It is very difficult to do it by yourself!!!!!

You need someone else to compress the spring and turn it to be able to get the screws threaded back in - It's not that easy even with another guy compressing it because of the amount of pressure needed to push down and also turn at the same time. I repeat, dont try to do it yourself, you'll just get very pissed off. Also be carefull while taking it apart because the screws are under pressure from the spring. Make sure that everything goes toether the exact way it came apart, mark it with a felt pen if you need!!!!!
 

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OK here ya go.

Pull off secondary and place on a roll of duct tape. Undo 3 1/2" nuts and let clutch fly apart (just kidding) there is spring pressure there so ensure to twist and lift up and let pressure off slowly. Undo three allen screws in helix and pull off. Put new helix on and tighten allen srews finger tight.

Replace roller cover and do thre bolts up- be sure to rotate tightening a little on each one at a time. When tight "snap" the clutch a few times (open and close. Then tighten allen heads - again a little at a time. After assembly is complete start over. haha just kidding.

However if the rollers are not sitting tight on the helix redo turning the helix 1/3 turn at a time till you get the best possible contact. You may have to take flashing off the back of the helix to make contact better or smooth clutch dish if it has cast on it.

Please note this is for stock helixs that are pretty crude for a nice Dalton helix like the one pictured I would suspect all will go much smoother and the try again portion with the helix may not be needed. You will get various opinions on whether the helix touching the rollers at fully closed or not makes a difference or not, only to be concerned about load but if not perfect at rest probably not perfect at load either. Hope this helps.
 

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Originally posted by RacerX@Dec 11 2002, 02:14 PM
I've done the drive clutch weights before on a sled; so, I probaly won't need any info there. What I do not know how to do is swapping the helix on the drivin clutch. I hope someone doesn't mind a bit of typing to help me out. I'd like to get this baby on asap. Here's a pic of the kit part #DP3. TIA
By the way I am suprised the helix is not recessed on the ramp to allow it to open fuller but perhaps this issue is fixed. Also tough to tell from the picture but it appears the weights are Cutler 62's with no hand grinding on them as Jeff had indicated, perhaps I am wrong though. How bout some different angle pics of the weights or comments
 

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I told jeff I weigh 210 and will be studding my Standard F7 in a month or two, my kit came with 64 cutlers (looks like they have been ground a little on the backsides.) I am surprised to see no springs.
Anyone know why he is using the stock springs. He said it would engage around 4100-4300. I have not put it in yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. I think I should just remove the drivin clutch to do this. I guess I will have go put out the cash for that bolt that pulls it off the shaft. Any other tools that I should buy for this job? Here's a few more pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thumper

Is this a good angle of the helix. What do you mean about the ramp. There is a notch on the righ-angle or backside of the ramp. Is that what you mean?
 

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Make sure when re-assembling secondary that the cast in line up marks on outside of sheaves line up. there are lines cast in on the outside edge of sheaves for balance of assembled unit.
 

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It is hard to comment on ramp angle alone as it works in harmony with the springs and clutch weights. The overall weight of the weight has not changed much but rather the profile with more on the front and less on the tip for more aggressive acceleration yet still able to pull the revs on the top. I see the cutback on the back of the helix. Jeff has done his homework from what I have heard so I think you will enjoy your kit.
 

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You mention removing driven clutch - yes you have to do that. No you do not need a clutch puller to do it, just a 1/2" wrench. The clutch puller is for the front clutch. You would also need a torque wrench set at 50-55lbs to retorque it. You are suppossed to retorque the driven also but I never bother.
 
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