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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a new chain case with the reverse in it today at the swap meet. I got my old one off but I can not get the new one to line up with the bottom shaft? I have the track very loose.. Do I need to pull the skid to get it in? There seems to be a lot of tension on that shaft still?? Any advice :div20:

Also can anybody tell me to make the reverse work do I need to install a different helix?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No - I just can't get the bottom lined up with the drive shaft. I know I need to start the top and bottom at the same time and push in together however the bottom won't line up :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
 

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did you measure both chaincases center to center and also check inside diameter of the bearing v.s. the driveshaft diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes their identical - I should of left the original one on and put the new gears in and new cover on - but I did not realize that I could of done that until now :banghead:
 

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The only time I have ever replaced a chaincase has been when I have been changing a track. In my case the skid was pulled and the drive shaft pulled. I always work on the chaincase with the sled on it's side.
With the drive shaft out I would slide the case on the jack shaft. Leaving the chaincase unbolted from the bulk head then I would lift the drive shaft in place. Hold it in place with the bottom gear and shaft bolt. Then bolt the other end of drive shaft up at the speedo bearing.
Now reinstall the chaincase bolts and tighten. Remove the bottom gear, put the top and bottom gear in the chain and install both gears and chain simultaneously. Finish installing the reverse gear. If you have trouble installing the thicker chain case cover, take the trailing arm loose at the tunnel and drill out the 2 or 3 belly pan rivets. This will give you enough room to slide the cover on. Make sure you get the fork of the linkage lever in the groove on the gear when installing cover. Then adjust the cable for full travel and return. Not to tight but not loose. I've installed about a half dozen reverse kits. When they are ordered they come with out cases, only gears and covers.

I would definitely pull the skid and try to install the chaincase. If that doesn't work then unbolt the speedo bearing. It is also easier if you have someone helping rather than doing it alone.

Good luck
 

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I don't know if I would pull the skid, but would definetly have the sled on it's side with the adjusting bolts backed off all the way and axle slid all the way forward. Where is it binding? How far on is it going? Does it seem to be hitting at the top or bottom?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the advice - I will go give it a try! :banana:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Three of the bolts to drop the skid just spin! :banghead:
I can't get a wrench in there to hold it either! Any Ideas?

My 97 Ultra was a ton easier to work on! You can't even tighten the chain on this god damn thing with out removing the exhaust!
 

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You need to jam one side of the holes with a bolt. What i mean is take a nut and thread it onto a bolt about 1/4 of an inch on the bolt. "make sure the bolt is the the same size as the one you removed". now screw the bolt in the with a wrench on the nut and one on the bolt tighten the nut untill snug. Now you should be able to back out the spinng bolt /Clear as Mud? Hope it helps
Edit for clarity, Not that it is all that clear still.
 

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Sounds like you need to take a step back for an hour or 2? :dunno:

Rear bolts are going to need a narrow(ed) 7/8" wrench on the inside. Some have used needle nose vice grips.

As far as the front, tighten the one you can unscrew back up, then try unscrewing the one giving you a bad time. Once that one is free, the other should unscrew easily
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all the help and advice! :div20: I called the dealer and he told me I need a 7/8" wrench. I got it all together - now just need to get the chain case cover on.. :frech32:
I will use the instructions below from Snoking!

"If you have trouble installing the thicker chain case cover, take the trailing arm loose at the tunnel and drill out the 2 or 3 belly pan rivets. This will give you enough room to slide the cover on. Make sure you get the fork of the linkage lever in the groove on the gear when installing cover. Then adjust the cable for full travel and return. Not to tight but not loose. I've installed about a half dozen reverse kits. When they are ordered they come with out cases, only gears and covers. "
 

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a little heat on the belly pan will give you enough room to slip the bigger cover by the problem area... I have used a heat gun and a torch... the torch is risky , it just heats up to fast.... slip it in once its warm!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well - It works!! Now I need to put oil in the chain case - I hope it doesn't leak! I am a little worried about the seal on the bottom of the chain case. It got a small ding in it while I was trying to fight it back on the jack shaft...... Well see
 

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I have found the best way to get the drive shaft in and out while still maintaining some control is to have the sled on its side (pto down). its easy to ding the seals fill it up and leave some paper under it after it run in on a stand. the paper shows the leak fast if there is one.
 

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theres a little metel peace that goes on side the chain case on the left hand side to stop the chain from beting the case up make sure you got that on or it will bind up and brake things

:beerchug:
 
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