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Discussion Starter #1
Even after recall..

I have replaced a few SV's already. One of my customers sled burnt up at 100 miles after. It started to cut out, they got it running again and again..Then finally burnt the exh. port side of piston, mag side. All the sleds that have had a mag side burndown -I believe- is SV related. If it was me I would pull the seal out of the valve and run it that way til all this is solved. If cat yells at me fine, I am gonna do it to all our sleds. It can't be worse than it is now, for burndowns, shut offs, stalls. Hell, as long as you keep 2 gallons in there, should be fine.

Just needed to post this, because now, I could start losing customers over this crap...

side note--all the 7's with the seals out have been fine, with most over 300 miles now.

Dan
 

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Could this cause my F7 to start hard after running. It takes about 3 pulls if it sit for 5 -10 minutes, or is it the fact that I have v-force reeds in as well. If it sits longer, say 1 hr or less 2 minutes it starts up on the first pull.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I wouldn't screw around , just reach in the tank pull the valve up and pop the cover off and take the seal out and put back together and see!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
to make 1 more point...I would rather have a sled burn up from no fuel. Than a full tank, with a malfunctioning valve :angry:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
even an updated 1 ...remember...this is what I BELIEVE so, do what you want but???
 

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30 miles on mine. no problems. took out SV as instructed by loonytune. 31 miles now...no troubles. Sorry, but we have no snow. I did take my disc out. it can't hurt a damn thing. all it can do is help. my 3 cents.
 

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I haven't taken one of these apart yet.. I'd really like to see some pictures of the correct way to modify the valve. Is it better to modify the original valve or the replacement one?
 

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It's easy there is only a small spring and a white disc inside the valve pry it appart with a small screwdriver or knife and remove the disk(white) pop the valve back together with the spring still in it and your in business. The spring shoud be pushing against the screen holding it out. :lol:
 

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I just got back in from taking the smart valve apart and the little white rubber disc out. I fished the rear valve out with a coat hanger and took a minute to look it over. I then popped the edge of one side of it off and to my surprise the valve sprang back out....?! I dont know if this was a "stuck valve situation" as there was gas leading up to the valve in the line and with 300 miles on it without any starting or running problems. I took the white disc out stretched the spring a bit and put it back together. The filter type cover now seemed to be fully pushed out, instead of a more flat looking situation. I should have taken pics of the whole thing but i didnt anticipate what i saw. My fcat didnt fall into the service bulliten fixes and have had it to the dealer for all the recent updates. I'm just wondering if it was possible to have a stuck valve or partial stuck valve and still have fuel in the line leading up to the valve?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did it have a tiny hole in the white seal also...

That is the only difference I can see between the old and new??
 

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The only hole is in the middle where the post went through it. Should I put a hole in it and put it back in or just leave it out and call my dealer and drive an hour to take it for a possible update on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
the new valve has a second...tiny hole between the center hole and edge. This is supposed to bleed off to not let it stick....whatever..
 
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