Let me know what you think, I found the rear valving to stiff testing last season.

 

I doubt if I will find it too stiff. I don’t feel I have found the solution to the high G hits on the rta/rts. I’m up to the XHD trap spring which improved things, just needed more rebound on the rts to go with it. I’ll see what this does for things. If I need to I can throw the HD springs back in. I have the the CC spring and valving on the FTS which I felt was a positive improvement. Put on the CC springs and valving on the IFS for this year and we’ll see where that goes.

 

I doubt if I will find it too stiff. I don’t feel I have found the solution to the high G hits on the rta/rtsaa as. I’m up to the XHD trap spring which improved things, just needed more rebound on the rts to go with it. I’ll see what this does for things. If I need to I can throw the HD springs back in. I have the the CC spring and valving on the FTS which I felt was a positive improvement. Put on the CC springs and valving on the IFS for this year and we’ll see where this goes.

factory valving ?

 

Hygear valving on the rts to go with the linkage kit.

 

I was at that point with the stock skid had crazy stiff everything in it. Added the linkage and have been working my way back softer and softer and it’s unbelievable how it can still take those hits now but ride so plush. I’m up on Tug Hill a lot and it got well tested for those wide deep g out rollers back to back. You’ll be really happy once you find the set up you like

 

Where did you end up with the RTS valving? My shocks are out for rebuilding and have to decide if I can go with stock valving with the kit or if I can get the valving close to what HyGear uses.

 

Pretty much what I was thinking. I can always go back to the stock IFS springs and back to the HD or even standard torsion springs if needed. I lean towards a firmer ride for smooth trail, which I prefer 100% of the time, for what is gained when the trails get ruff.

 

I just installed the linkage kit. Your's looks the same. Are you concerned about the bolt head and nut that hold the lower end of the linkage kit coming in contact with the idler wheels and the nut and bolt head when the suspension is compressed?

 

 

I started installing mine today and got to the point where the linkage is all put together like this and am finding that the linkage comes in contact with the bogeys going through the travel. Are you having a similar issue?

 

It was explained to me that the linkage smooths out the smaller stuff kinda r- motion like but then you have to have rear shock valved stiffer as it makes it softer deeper in . This was Info from hygear booth in Syracuse when I tried to buy them at the show . Was this bad info ??

 

I have my shocks all valved and pistons for a more stiffer, solid XC racing. Worried that it is going to make the ride too soft in the hits. Am guessing this unit just makes it ride like an r-motion. I have a 21 xrs also and that I do not like aggressive XC riding as both front and rear gets unpredictable.

 

I looked into this for my Axys Indy but decided to try the Tracks USA front arm kit first. I feel the loose trail handling of my sled is a bigger issue than the ride quality.

 

Question on when ordering. After you select the track length there is “rear shock revalved for progressive ratio”. Guessing there is two different models? One for shocks valved stiffer and one for stock valving? I know on the 129 it requires a different part. But curious on the difference between revalved or not.
Or if you click not revalved they are expecting you to ship your shocks in before they send you the parts?

 

It’s all the same kits I think they just ask for their own records and they’ll send a kit with or without you sending your shock in

 

I noticed that when on the bench it would contact the decorative “lug nut” protrusions of the bogie wheel. Wasn’t sure how far the linkage would rotate back so I just flipped the wheels around to gain more clearance… just clears this way. I figured if it needs more clearance the bolt ends will self clearance the plastic wheel.

VS

 

Due to the new linkage having separate shock rod and shock mounting points I torqued the shock rod to 17 lb/ft and the lower shock mount I torqued to 24 lb/ft the same as the upper shock mount bolt.

 

Yes your correct they are using a differently machined rod in this years kits. The kit I got last year the rod was step machined in similar to VR-1 so shorter bolts fit and the nut had more clearance to the wheels now the rods are solid the entire way and thicker similar to XCR. I’m guessing they did this to cut costs or a different machine shop? Either way I think the original ones was a more detailed piece also the logo was machined in not a paint print on that first run last season.

 

Copy that. So they need to start providing bolts with the kit then otherwise there's gonna be a lot of upset customers who tear everything apart but can't get it back together

 

Don’t think the XCR 136” needs anything different. I believe the link rotates to the rear when compressed and if that’s true then there is no clearance issues at all. Once I get the rear re-installed I’ll un-hook the torsion springs and move it through its travel.

 

Just spoke to Hygear, any XCR has the thicker OEM link rods and has the proper length bolts from factory. They were made aware last week of the VR1's having a shorter bolt and are now sending bolts with the kits from here out.

My linkage on the 129" rotates forward slightly and should provide ample clearance for the idler but man is it still gonna be tight in there. Here's two screenshoots from video footage of extension and as far as I can compress it. Mine is like an R-motion now where I need to ratchet strap the rear torque arm to the front and pull it forward to get the rear bolted in. If y'all notice the big change aside from the linkage...kudos. Video on it will be up soon-ish

 

New cross country torsions? Did you have a spec to reallocate the spring tabs or just eyeballed it? Your skid will compress down much farther than mine does by pushing on it I see

 

Ahhh I thought the torsion springs looked long

 

All good info I have a set on my shelf for testing in my new 136, just want to get some time in on it first before changing to much at once. All my previous stuff was/is 129.

 

For riders who are running straps in the longest position.
I found on my 2020 xcr the area shaded "red" in the photo needed to be massaged with a grinding wheel.
With the straps in the longest position, it allows the FTS to extend full and when making trail side clicker adjustments the knob will contact the gull wing bracket.
Just a heads up for guys running the gull wing bracket in a 128/129 skid.

 

For riders who are running straps in the longest position.
I found on my 2020 xcr the area shaded "red" in the photo needed to be massaged with a grinding wheel.
With the straps in the longest position, it allows the FTS to extend full and when making trail side clicker adjustments the knob will contact the gull wing bracket.
Just a heads up for guys running the gull wing bracket in a 128/129 skid.

Can confirm this as well. Mine is VERY close at full extension but does just barely clear. Next time my skid comes out I'll be clearancing that section.

 

Doesn’t sound like this thing was ready for prime time

 

But it is "PrimeTime".

 

Well, hopefully this thing works as advertised.

 

Was all set to get one. I think I will wait to see what happens.

 

I’ll have to see if I can get a copy of it from my buddy that dyno tests stuff for me

 

Got my video up on the linkage assembly/install and torsion spring stuff. It's in my build thread but figured might be a good idea to copy/paste some stuff in here too for anyone who doesn't frequent the forum doing a google search or something.

I got all the shocks in and ran the stock linkage through a sweep, I did do some measuring of the motion ratios but didn't include it in the video as it isn't a "proper" measurement since the skid isn't bolted into the machine. However, on the bench the stock linkage is 1:1 through it's whole sweep, or damn close to it. The Hygear drastically alters the machanical leverages once you hit the coupler, it's a really trick unit. It goes from 1:1 during the first lets say 2/3 stroke to a reduced ratio 1:.75. Essentially once you contact the coupler it changes where the cam pivots, so even though you're slowing down the shock ratio (1" of wheel/skid travel = .75" shock travel) you're taking away a ton of mechanical leverage causing it to take way more force to continue to move that shock. Pretty much as the mechanical leverage changes is where the piston passes the reservoir so you're really making that last section of travel take a lot of force, BUT it's not like hitting a bump stop as it still has plenty of travel to go.
Again, these motion ratios aren't 100% accurate as this was measured on the bench and not in the sled, but it's pretty close to the idea of what's happening.

My biggest gripe with the kit is the new cam assembly has a 3/8-24 bolt with 9/16" nut and bolt....while the entire rest of the skid is either 10mm, 13mm, 15mm or a torx, but they're all metric and consistent across the entire sled.

In the picture above, you can see a small m6x1 bolt just behind the new billet cam assembly....this bolt does not remain installed when you put the skid in the sled. This is to help rotate/cam the new billet assembly into place to get the bolt in, it gives you something to push the cam against to rotate it into place. Once you get the lower bolt in, remove that m6x1. At full extension/top out it will make contact and limit the cam movement. Hygear claims there's instructions about that, but I didn't get any instructions with my gullwing bracket (it shipped early, separate from the linkage kit) and there's nothing about it in the linkage kit instructions either.

 

Interesting video. I'm helping my riding Bud in Charleston install the Hygear linkage kit in his XCR 136 next week. (Been on order since May, delivered 2 weeks ago) He's done the entire Hygear kit including dual-rate springs and valving to match. Should be quite a change, he's one of the guys with a '22 XCR who needed to upgrade the OEM rear spring to the HD. We changed all his 4,000 mi. skid wheel bearings already but have been waiting to do jack/driveshaft/chaincase till after the skid linkage was delivered.

 

I have the kit on the bench for my 136 XCR. Installing the carrier wheels from them first then will test the shock changes I made to baseline it before installing the kit. Will be interesting to hear feedback from those first kits on the trail. Good Vid Munson!

 

All the stock linkage/RTS should have a little looseness to it from keeping it from binding, the new link has much tighter shock rod and shock attachment point… hope that works out ok.