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How to increase 550 fan reliability

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84K views 54 replies 23 participants last post by  mattfidaho  
#1 · (Edited)
I know this May be an old topic to do a write up for but I feel it is an important one because many of these 550s are still out there and perhaps changing hands to unsuspecting/unknowing buyers. If you recently purchased a 550 fan congratulations but bought a dud! Don't worry though you are not alone (myself included - I knew what I was getting into though), there are many of us out there and there is hope for your 550 to give you years of enjoyment and trouble free miles. You will read horror stories about your 550 and want to sell it the moment you google 550 blown motor. The purpose of this post is to help 550 owners gain reliability from their 550 by modifying it in the places and ways which polaris engineers forgot to. Some modifications are free and some will cost a few bucks but none of them will be as expensive as a new motor. I am no expert but have done much research and untilized the advice of the experts such as northstardave, to compile this list of upgrades. I am not sure how indepth people need the instructions for each step so I figured I will do a brief overview of everything and if anyone wants a step by step or more detail for any of the fixes just post your request to the thread and I will respond. Also I have read the info but don't recall exactly which 550s are the worst, but what if comes down to if you own a 550 fan you should make the changes I list. If any experts notice I missed something or have something to add or correct please feel free to add your .02. The point of this thread is a one stop for all 550 fan fixes, so please add your input. The majority of the issues with the 550 fan stems from it getting too hot resulting in burn downs, via oil issues, lean fuel issues, etc. I will do each step as a separate post so that I don't have to do all this at one time and so that my pics match up with the step. Ok let's begin at this moment I have 8 ideas for you.....

Step 1 - Exhaust Heat sheild ($ TBA )

Part number - Custom made

the fan for cooling the motor sucks the cold air in directly from the exhaust pipe (not too cool...sorry for the pun), so you need a heat sheild to lessen the temp of the air the fan grabs as well as direct the air from the inlet in the hood down to the fan more directly. As far as I know there is no part number for this part, you will have to fab it yourself or go see your local welder and they should be able to make it up pretty easy. The sheild on mine is 3/32" thick aluminum plate, it has no welds just bends, it measures 11" from front to back, and has 3 faces to it. The height of the top vertical face is 3" at the back and 3-5/8" at the front, so it does slope downwards somewhat as to gets closer to the back of the engine compartment. Te second face is horizontal and measures 2-3/4" at the front and 3-1/2" at the back. You will see in the pic that there is a mount bolt at 5-1/2" from the front edge. The lowest face is also vertical and measures 6-1/8" at the front and stays that height until about half way where it then curves up to a point that is 5" down from the top edge of this face. There are 2 bolts on this face at 4-7/8" and 9-3/4" when measured from the front edge. The bolts are approximately 3-1/8" from the top of this face. I hope some of that makes sense without a working drawing. Use the pics I am including to help you out. If it become necessary I can do up a CAD drawing but for now I want to go on with the list.
 

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#34 ·
Hi. New to the thread. I own two Polaris 550 sleds, a 99 and 04. The 99 is a solid performer but the 04 has burned up twice in two weeks. The fixes posted are awesome and I appreciate the photos and explanations given. I asked -why does this keep happening and better yet- how does one sled perform perfectly (99) and the other not (04)? My observation is AIRFLOW. The 99 has cylinder baffles that channel the incoming air from the fan, through the cylinders, and right out the top vent. The 04 doesn’t have any air channeling. It’s like Polaris said goodbye to these critical air channeling parts. I’ve since ordered them from the 99 parts catalog and will installing on the 04. Right now, air just continues to circulate in the cavity. Great when you’re moving but horrible heat when at idle. If anyone is curious about the end result, I’ll share before and after photos.
 
#35 ·
The '04 has the exact same air channel ducting on the recoil blower housing and around the cylinders as the '99. The outlet duct on the clutch gaurd is slightly different between the Gen 2 and the Edge because of different hood shapes/vent locations.

If your sled doesn't have it, sorry to say - but you were duped when you bought it. How long have you owned it? If you've owned the '04 longer than just this season, I'd be shocked it hadn't burned down sooner.
 
#37 ·
Gents great thread, my daughter has a 2014 same issues apply ? or did they make changes over the years ? tks
 
#41 · (Edited)
Hi there,

Thank you for sharing all this info. i found articles in the past about all this, but not to this level of detail and images.

I remember seeing something about an air duct upgrade kit as well. AH now I see your post about heat shield also purposed to to cool and direct air to cooling fan. makes sense now...

I still need a new piston and jog i assume, haven't torn it down yet to see the damage inside...
Seeing the prices of the fuel pump relocation kit etc. I may try my luck at getting our 550 fan running for my wife. Got it for free from friend when i bought his trailer.

Thanks in advance!
Andrew Kuter
 
#42 ·
Hi there,

Thank you for sharing all this info. i found articles in the past about all this, but not to this level of detail and images.

I remember seeing something about an air duct upgrade kit as well. AH now I see your post about heat shield also purposed to to cool and direct air to cooling fan. makes sense now...

I still need a new piston and jog i assume, haven't torn it down yet to see the damage inside...
Seeing the prices of the fuel pump relocation kit etc. I may try my luck at getting our 550 fan running for my wife. Got it for free from friend when i bought his trailer.

Thanks in advance!
Andrew Kuter
I never relocated any of the fuel pumps on the 3 sleds I installed the fan duct kit. It's not needed. I also never re-jetted them and one had 8K on the motor.

What year is your sled, because they didn't start using Nicasil until 2007 or 2008? If it's an iron lined cylinder, I would have them bored and install new piston and rings in both cylinders. Definitely want to add some cooling to the motor or it won't last.
 
#45 ·
I know this is a really old thread,
But I am working on a couple 550 05 and 05 trail touring fans I have and doing all the recommended additions.
could any one give any update as to how their sleds have done in the last 6 years? :)
Also I just wrapped one of my 550s pipe with the exhaust manifold header wrap / silicone spray to try and help with heat under the hood as well.. has anyone done that?
 
#46 · (Edited)
i have now done over 50 550 edge chassis sleds. i make my own heat shield between the ex. muffler and the recoil ( air inlet ) you need to use slp vent kits on both sides. oil bleed kit is a must, fuel pump relocation? it can cause a lean burn down if riding up and down hills with a low fuel tank. jetting? not really needed. almost all i have seen go down are from oil starvation. oil pump gets so hot it cavate's and doesn't pump any oil. install a vent under the motor. we use a vent piece from a Indy 550. drill a couple of holes in the flat plate under the motor. easier to remove the motor as there isn't al lot of room. face the vent forward. you can use some fine screen to keep snow out. this is the mod that makes the biggest difference. as it blows cold air right at the oil pump. part #5262008 $44.95 and you will need 6 rivets to install use 3/16" steel rivets with steel backing washers. also vent the oil tank. we have a $40 kit for this. i have had only one 550 come back. it went down from dirty carb's.
 
#49 ·
Thanks,
I was also wondering about adding a 12v fan to an aux switch to help move more air under the hood. But it sounds like that might be over kill.
I’m a little gun shy now after having to replace the top end on my 05 550 trail touring my wife rides.
I also have an 06 I’ve done the upgrades on to try and limit issues.
When we ride into the cabin my sons 200 goes around 30mph so I think that has put us in the death zone for the 550s ;-/
 
#47 · (Edited)
i have now done over 50 550 edge chassis sleds. i make my own heat shield between the ex. muffler and the recoil ( air inlet ) you need to use slp vent kits on both sides. oil bleed kit is a must, fuel pump relocation? it can cause a lean burn down if riding up and down hills with a low fuel tank. jetting? not really needed. almost all i have seen go down are from oil starvation. oil pump gets so hot it cavate's and doesn't pump any oil. install a vent under the motor. we use a vent piece from a Indy 550. drill a couple of holes in the flat plate under the motor. easier to remove the motor as there isn't al lot of room. face the vent forward. you can use some fine screen to keep snow out. this is the mod that makes the biggest difference. as it blows cold air right at the oil pump. part #5262008 $44.95 and you will need 6 rivets to install use 3/16" steel rivets with steel backing washers. also vent the oil tank. we have a $40 kit for this. i have had only one 550 come back. it went down from dirty carb's.
Part# 5262008 is a Base Gasket used by some Four Stroke ATV's.

Part# 5256780 $44.99 US is a "Floor Vent" used in the under engine portion of the Chassis, Bulkhead Assembly, on a MY25 Indy 550 Sport.