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Discussion Starter #1
I thought I would do a little write-up for all the guys asking about their sled bogging when mashing the throttle. It's mostly likely because the smart valves in the tank get slammed shut. Here's how to fix that problem.

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1) Be sure your fuel level is well below the fuel pump in the tank (mine was just under 1/2 tank), I also jacked up the front of the sled to move the fuel to the back of the tank.

2) Locate your fuel pump, remove the hose clamp and pull off the hose (put a rag underneath to catch a little fuel that may drip out, I also put a bolt in the hose to plug it and set it off to the side with the hose facing up so no other fuel would leak out).

3) Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connection (red/black wires).



4) Remove the upper and lower nuts holding the fuel pump to the tank; may need to put the rag underneath to catch a little fuel (take note of the o-rings on the inner sides of the top nut and bottom washer).



5) Reach inside the tank and pull out the fuel pump (the smart valves are attached to the fuel pump), let the excess fuel drip back into the tank.



6) Place the fuel pump and smart valves on cardboard.



7) Pry one of the smart valves apart: there are 2 tabs that you can use a small screw driver to pry them apart, be careful not to lose the spring.



8) Here's where the BIC spring comes into play, preferably use the BIC Clic Stic.



Notice how much thicker the BIC spring is (stock spring on left, BIC spring on right).



Cut the BIC spring to match the length of the original spring.



9) You may notice the white washer under the spring, you have the option to remove this, thus eliminating the function of the smart valves and essentially bypassing them all-together; I left mine on there.

10) Reassemble the smart valve with the washer (if preferred), the new BIC spring, and snap back into the housing (when assembling, you may need to clean the screen with carb cleaner before you put it all back together if it's dirty).

11) Repeat Steps 7-10 for the other smart valve.

12) Put the smart valves and fuel pump back into the tank, make sure the valves are sitting flat on the bottom of the tank.



13) Secure the fuel pump to the tank with the nuts and washers (be sure the bottom nut has the washer with the o-ring facing the tank, same with the top nut).

14) Reconnect the fuel pump electrical connection (red/black wires).

15) Hook up the fuel line and secure with the hose clamp.

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Mods/Admins, feel free to sticky/pin this topic if necessary as this is related to more sleds than just Firecats.
 

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great job and perfect timing!
what is the function of the smart valves? What are they "supposed" to do? Any downfall to have them without the spring and white washer?
 

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They are supposed to close off and keep the pump from sucking air if the fuel sloshes away from the smart valve (like in heavy acceleration, deceleration, jumping, cornering, etc).
 

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They are supposed to close off and keep the pump from sucking air if the fuel sloshes away from the smart valve (like in heavy acceleration, deceleration, jumping, cornering, etc).
so doesnt the stronger spring just keep them open? like removing the spring and washers?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You really don't want to remove the white disc as you are basically bypassing the purpose of the valves, but read a lot of guys have done it that way. It's really to help in situations where water is in the gas, and they would suck shut to prevent damage. I've also read guys just carry a bottle of IsoHeat/etc if they get in an area with bad gas, but to me that's just 1 more thing to carry.
 
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