for the front end shocks make yourself some straps and than push down on the front bumper; with the front end pushed down take a measurement from where the top bolt for the shock is mounted to where it is mounted on the bottom than make your strap holes that distance apart. When ready to fasten the strap put the top one on first and than have someone hold the front of the sled down while you put the second hole on the bolt . the idea is to get the shock compressed and keep it that way with a strap or a chain. It takes a little work. Good luck. it
let's start with the front... I think we all agree on 'THAT'
my springs 'were' set about half tension... that kept the front of the sled up and the arms in a slight ^ I loosened the shocks off as much as i could which results in the arms being almost horizontal? Is that what you want? the front down right? it could be strapped down more I'm sure
OK. the back - "I" was told to loosen the front suspesion shock right off... that doing that would help 'RAISE' the track at the front and you needed that for hole shot and weight transfer??
I tried moving the aluminum bar that's between the idler wheels and the spring tension main block? ( where it goes up to your adjustment).. That would force the rear to sit down and help with hole shot I was told... unfortunately there isn't much room from those stock hole where the bar is now... I did get another hole further back and a little higher, but with the stock aluminum bar it wouldn't clear the spring scissor bracket ( or whatever it's called)
I'll have to get a steel long bolt threaded on both sides and put that through.... it should be strong enough... and would 'just' clear with the new holes I drilled
My buddy did the same thing to his ZR900 and it's like a fricken lowrider... but handles exceptionally well still on the trail.
So my front is LOW, my back has potential... I'll get this thing to hook yet!!!!
coupling blocks completely removed at this time... good, no?
If you tighten the front arm shock, that will cause a quicker transfer of weight both forward and backward. However, it will also scrub off topend speed because of the way the track makes its "turn" around the drivers.
Heres how to get the low rider affect. Take your suspension out and loosen your front shock spring almost all the way up. than take your limiter straps and suck those babys down until they are about 2 1/2 inches from the rubber stop. At that point you are half done. The next thing you do is go to the back and where the bracket that holds the rear shock there is an extra hold there put a bolt through it and make a strap about an inch wide. (this is where the fun comes in) with grampa grandma and the rest of the family get on the sled until its down there where you want it. The strap will go around the aluminum cross support. You will have to do this after the suspension is back in. It is very hard to get your hands in between the suspension to do this.With everybody on the sled,so have them sit first and look under and get an idea of how long to make the strap. Another way is to take two small chains and mount from the rail to the suspension. It does not look as neat but will do the same job. You will be ending up with a track that will be almost straight. If you want the front of the skis to lift more or less adjust the front limitor straps , a 1/2 inch will make a big difference.
What a coincidence, just got in from testing, testing ,testing. I've given up on clutching for now, finally realized , aside from more studs, that the suspension is where I have to spend my time. Just can't hook up, going nuts trying to get set up for 660.
Will be trying all of above asap.
I thought I had the front figured out by loosening both front shocks all the way... BIG MISTAKE... only went about 1/2 mile and lost both spring perches...
had to call me night off... learn as you go.. it DID look cool as hell though... the A arms were horizontal like if you had it strapped down...
DAM!!! But I will say this.. for that brief ride... with the couplers out of the back, the tension set on #1 the front reasr suspension shock loosened off all the way... the sled really seemed to grab the snow better...
I was actually pulling the ski's further, even with the front of the sled slammed?
" You will be ending up with a track that will be almost straight. If you want the front of the skis to lift more or less adjust the front limitor straps , a 1/2 inch will make a big difference"
Those limiter straps in the front of the rear suspension? Do they have holes in them on yours? Mine do not.. how to you shorten them if they don't have extra drilled holes?
Also - would you have the front shocks cut or just wrap or tie the A ams together to get you that low look while keeping shock pressure so you don't loose the spring perches?
I was having same issue with hookup, went to 204 studs. If you used the arctic cat/woody's pattern for 170 ,what I did was add a stud with a double backer plate on each side of the panel with the 2 studs. so instead of a 4,4 2 pattern you have 4,4,4. Works for me.good luck!
Kingsnow: Very good data. You have "hit the nail on the head!" Guys, from what I've been told by AC, I would say that KingSnow knows what he is talking about. I'd listen. I have my sled set up almost identical, following the same steps.
Spenc: The limiter straps King is talking about are the straps on the front of the rear suspension. You will have to drill new holes in the strap. A stud cutter for a 1/4" stud works EXTREMELY well when drilling holes in any straps you make. The front -rear suspension spring will also determine ski lift. If it is tight, you will notice the rear of the track will sit off the ground to a degree. The more the rear track sits off, the higher the ski's come. So, as King stated, moving 1/2" incriments at a time make a big difference. If you end up drilling lots of holes, once you figure out where you want to be, I would recommend either buying new straps and making the hole you like, or go to Macs Hardware, and buy some belting, and make your own straps.
As for the front suspension, it needs to be tied down, but the springs we tighten up just enough so that you can kind of feel it give when you push on it. That way you don't loose anything!
As for the coupler blocks, if you have it tied down as KingSnow stated, the arm will never contact the blocks, so it won't make a difference where they are set.
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