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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering what some of you guys have seen for longevity for the 600ho.. Currently I have about 12,600 Miles and have not touched a thing but cleaning the valves, and clearancing them to stay off the pistons, any suggestions over the summer for a rebuild? Compression is starting to show signs of wanting some love! Thanks!
 

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I would at least throw in a set of pistons.Depending on your oil quality the center bronze gear on the crank may be worn but then you are talking total crank rebuild.I would probably put in pistons and run it .You may want to just make sure not too much oil is leaking from around the crank seals.Change the oil filter as that always seems to get overlooked.Fuel filter too if its a cfi.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would at least throw in a set of pistons.Depending on your oil quality the center bronze gear on the crank may be worn but then you are talking total crank rebuild.I would probably put in pistons and run it .You may want to just make sure not too much oil is leaking from around the crank seals.Change the oil filter as that always seems to get overlooked.Fuel filter too if its a cfi.
I have used Legend SR2 since 500 miles when I bought the sled, I have thought about checking that gear, I have seen quite a few of them gears with wear also. It is a Carb 600ho, so no worries about that expensive filter! What is everyones opinions on brand of pistons for the good old 600ho carb? I like these old elko's. Haven't taken it apart yet so I have a lot of options.
 

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having had 100's of high mileage motors apart. it will be a gamble on just doing a top end. we see a lot of worn crank bearings, water pump gear's, and mechanical seals usually start weeping at that mileage. intake boots are toast, crank seals need replacing, depends how much you want to spend? doing it yourself depending how far you go $1800-$2500 elko piston's would be my first choice for that motor, if still available?
 

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12,400 on my '08 700 - valves the only thing touched on the motor. This sled had the oil pump turned up when it was new (I bought it at 2400) and the thermostat removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
having had 100's of high mileage motors apart. it will be a gamble on just doing a top end. we see a lot of worn crank bearings, water pump gear's, and mechanical seals usually start weeping at that mileage. intake boots are toast, crank seals need replacing, depends how much you want to spend? doing it yourself depending how far you go $1800-$2500 elko piston's would be my first choice for that motor, if still available?
Thanks for the feedback, where is the line on replacing the gear on the crank, at what point do you do it? And at what point do you just throw a complete rebuilt crank from CVtech in ? Also what do you do with the cylinders when the valve stops wear so bad, would it almost be worse putting new valves in that only seat on the very edge and might break easier than the ones you have that are at least stopping on more surface area? What about the nikasil on the cylinders, I have seen Ski-doo Etec's with 10,000 miles with the top of the walls gone, have you seen that with any Polaris cylinders?
 

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I have one too and it’s at about 11k miles all original motor. Runs a little rich but still pulls like a champ so I don’t mess with it
 

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I have one too and it’s at about 11k miles all original motor. Runs a little rich but still pulls like a champ so I don’t mess with it

Factory carb setting/fuel rich or oil rich?

My 2006 is still mysteriously getting oil into the engine when it sits for a long period of time. Thought it was fuel but it’s not.
 

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Factory carb setting/fuel rich or oil rich?

My 2006 is still mysteriously getting oil into the engine when it sits for a long period of time. Thought it was fuel but it’s not.

Idk. Never touched the motor in my life
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Factory carb setting/fuel rich or oil rich?

My 2006 is still mysteriously getting oil into the engine when it sits for a long period of time. Thought it was fuel but it’s not.
Weak check valve or your building pressure in the oil tank, I have the Ski-doo oil cap and still have a pshhh, pressure build up in the oil tank, LEAVE THE CAP LOOSE IN SUMMER. worth a try, and don't pull it over in the fall with oil in the engine!
 

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I've got over 7000 miles on my '12 Shift. All stock, pistons look perfect when taking valves out to clean. Bought new and I don't beat on my things, so I suppose that's the biggest factor.
 

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Weak check valve or your building pressure in the oil tank, I have the Ski-doo oil cap and still have a pshhh, pressure build up in the oil tank, LEAVE THE CAP LOOSE IN SUMMER. worth a try, and don't pull it over in the fall with oil in the engine!

Cap is fine, already tried that.

I’ve heard people recommend the check valves but there are 4-5 of them and I’ve heard they can be a real big pain in the ass to change. There was a guy on here that changed his check valves and the sled still drank oil. That’s why I almost wonder if there’s something wrong with my oil pump that is allowing oil to drain down into the crankcase. Oil usage is almost spot on at 50:1 when it’s running. I marked the oil tank before I put it away for the summer last week so we shall see how far it goes down this summer.

When I got it out of the garage, to put it in the trailer in the barn for the summer, it wanted to run on one cylinder for a minute and then it went to two. It was smoking so bad that it was fogging out the entire neighborhood. It had been sitting on the hoist in my garage for about a month.
 

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I would at least throw in a set of pistons.Depending on your oil quality the center bronze gear on the crank may be worn but then you are talking total crank rebuild.I would probably put in pistons and run it .You may want to just make sure not too much oil is leaking from around the crank seals.Change the oil filter as that always seems to get overlooked.Fuel filter too if its a cfi.

Friend of ours, up north, is looking for a crank for his wife’s 2006 Fusion. Had just about 11,000 on it before the crank side gear stripped completely. Sled was babied and meticulously cared for it’s entire life too.
 

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Friend of ours, up north, is looking for a crank for his wife’s 2006 Fusion. Had just about 11,000 on it before the crank side gear stripped completely. Sled was babied and meticulously cared for it’s entire life too.
You mean the brass water pump gear that wears out?
 

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You mean the brass water pump gear that wears out?

That’s what I thought but allegedly, the tech at his Polaris dealer told him the crank is screwed. He knew something was wrong because the coolant got hot on him really fast so he shut it down. Figured out it had no coolant circulation so he pulled it down figuring that the water pump impeller stripped out only to find that the water pump driveshaft would turn without the crank turning. Maybe the lack of oil for that little bit hurt the crank? :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just wondering what some of you guys have seen for longevity for the 600ho.. Currently I have about 12,600 Miles and have not touched a thing but cleaning the valves, and clearancing them to stay off the pistons, any suggestions over the summer for a rebuild? Compression is starting to show signs of wanting some love! Thanks!
Ok, sorry for the long post, here we go! Before tear down I knew I had low compression on the MAG side, also found that I had a PTO exhaust valve destroyed recently as I didn't even know it, must have just happened on the last trip and was still pulling ok RPM's, but totally destroyed! MAG side Comp. 88 PTO Side 105, my gauge is alway a little low, but after tear down and inspection, MAG side piston is cracked all the way across the top from intake side to exhaust, there's the low compression reading. Also both piston crowns are collapsed pretty bad, about the size of a dime or maybe a nickel, clear to the naked eye! Another alarming find was the MAG side wrist pin was wore real bad on one side like it lost its hardness, it showed .005 wear when measured and looked way worse! The rod measured fine no difference to the PTO side. Really odd uneven wear and rough. Piston to wall clearances were both about .006, with the top rings between .017 & .018 and the lower rings both about .024. No taper in the cylinders, crank run out 0 on MAG side and <.0015 on the PTO, connecting rod side clearances .019-.021. All crank bearings and gear looked and felt really good at first glance, but the PTO bearing ended up being loose on the shaft with about .001 of wear on the crank and looked like it was spinning on the crank. So I replaced the 3 outer bearings on the crank, and did a Polaris 850 bearing fix!(If you know what I mean), quick hone/deglazing, new SPI Hyperdryve Pistons @ .005 clearance, rings set to .014-.015, new water pump & oil pump seals, all gaskets, O-rings, One new Exhaust valve and bellow, thermostat. All said and done, I am somewhere in the $700.00 range, would have been much cheaper had I not had to put in one of those gold plated exhaust valves at $125.00. But I did luck out and picked up the pistons for $130.00 for the pair off of FB Marketplace! I gotta say for having 12,600 miles on this engine, in my opinion, it was in very good shape, all the bottom end stuff looked great, had the PTO bearing not come off I was going to put it together, but I figured your this far, why wouldn't you put the easy bearing in it right! I don't want to turn this into an oil debate, it's not the cleanest burning in my opinion, but I think it did a great job with wear on the pistons, rings, gears and bearings! The collapsed pistons I'm told is from Detonation, which I have had a few times, so I will be going back down on the timing, always run 91 or 93 Octane fuel, but believe I was always a little lean on the needles also. Thanks for reading my book!
 
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