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Discussion Starter #1
So 4 months ago my 2015 Indy 600 SP engine seized on me. It was all around the time we were purchasing our new house. I didn’t have the time or place to look at it. Now that we have settled in our new home I started to look at the sled to see the extent of the damage. And try to get it running.. Last night I started disassembling and I found that the piston and cylinder on the MAG side were pretty bad (see pictures attached). The motor is still in the sled. I have not removed it. Not sure how difficult that is. I just removed the head and jugs..

The first thing I did was use a shop vac and try and suck the coolant from the system to reduce the mess. I removed the head and then the cylinders. When I pulled the cylinder off I saw that I had coolant in the bottom of the crank. I thought maybe this was from me taking things apart. I used the shop vac and sucked the coolant out. I cleaned as much as I could. I threw oil in the bottom of the crank and rotated everything just in case. After thinking about this for a while I had coolant only in the side that was bad (mag side), the PTO side did not have coolant in it that I could see. As well as the coolant has possibly been sitting in there for almost 4 months. Now I am kind of freaking out and wondering how bad things are for my motor.

The thought would be this is just a simple top end rebuild. I have done one before on my 488 air cooled. So I didn’t think it was going to be a big deal. Now with what I have seen I am wondering what is next. Are my bearings bad? What are the reasons I would have coolant in that crank only? Warped head? I do not see any damage to the cylinder that would allow coolant in.

For the Bottom End
  1. For bottom end what do I do?
  2. Will the bearings be ok? Will filling the crankcase up with oil so the bearings are submerged make any difference?
For the Top End
  1. What Pistons do I get? I am not going for power. Stock speed is fine. I just want something reliable
  2. For the top end. It looks like I need to send my cylinders off to have them replated. I found US Chrome right here in Wisconsin that does that.
  3. What kind of seal and gasket kits are there. For some reason places like Dennis Kirk doesn’t list any.
Any help you guys could provide would be greatly appreciated.
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You can check the clearances and strength of your crank bearings, there is a chance its not bad. However, your going to need atleast one new jug, and an all new top end minimum. Hard to tell from the pics if the better one is good enough to hone out.
Any ideas as to why it seized up?
Those cleanfire 600's are usually pretty solid engines, if I may, how long have you had the machine, how many miles are on it and how many have you put on it?
It sounds like the waterpump quit, but you should have noticed it running rough, or you should have seen a temp light. Those are pretty bad marks/scuffs on the inside of your jugs, that was running hot for a few minutes to do that kind of damage.
 

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2021 VR1 Eight-Fiddy HYPERSLED!!
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First question that comes to mind is ... how was that thing on oil? Was it pretty easy on oil like most sleds in that time frame? Or had you done any kind of vent kit for it, or was it 100% stock? Reason I ask is, lack of lubrication - a real issue for the Polaris sleds in that Indy / Pro-Ride chassis.

EDIT: Sorry - I should have read closer to see the comment about the vented oil cap!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am almost certain it locked up because my dumb a$$ changed the oil filter and had an air bubble in the line and didn't realize it. Last fall did some maintenance on it, and one of the items was replacing the oil filter. I should have added oil to the tank as a just in case measure but didn't. I do have a vented oil cap. I never thought of the water pump but that could be a possibility
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How bad is the coolant sitting in the bottom of the crank for almost 3 months?
I found a Wiseco pistion kit that comes with all the seals and for rebuilding the top end.
I talked to US Chrome about sending my jugs into them to have them honed and re-plated




Below is from previous post when it first happened:
Over the fall we performed maintenance. New fuel filter, oil filter and cleaned VES valves.

Well something must have happened. The sled has been started a few times since than and brought up to temp smoked like it had oil. But due to no snow have not ridden it. Yesterday we had some snow and decided to take it out int the bean field. After about 5 minutes the sled shut down. Tried pulling on the recoil and it wouldn't budge. We took the belt off so we could tow it back. After it sitting for a few minutes my friend was able to rotate the primary back and forth. To me it looked like he could rotate it pretty easily.

We towed it back to the barn pulled the covers and hood off and I pulled the plugs and they smelled very metally. If that is a word. I only have 2800 miles on my 2015 sled and have always ran the VES oil with a vented oil cap. Before my sled even hit the trail the cap was vented. So during my maintenance I must have messed something up. Frustrated. I called it a day and went home.
 

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I am almost certain it locked up because my dumb a$$ changed the oil filter and had an air bubble in the line and didn't realize it. Last fall did some maintenance on it, and one of the items was replacing the oil filter. I should have added oil to the tank as a just in case measure but didn't. I do have a vented oil cap. I never thought of the water pump but that could be a possibility
.

How bad is the coolant sitting in the bottom of the crank for almost 3 months?
I found a Wiseco pistion kit that comes with all the seals and for rebuilding the top end.
I talked to US Chrome about sending my jugs into them to have them honed and re-plated




Below is from previous post when it first happened:
Over the fall we performed maintenance. New fuel filter, oil filter and cleaned VES valves.

Well something must have happened. The sled has been started a few times since than and brought up to temp smoked like it had oil. But due to no snow have not ridden it. Yesterday we had some snow and decided to take it out int the bean field. After about 5 minutes the sled shut down. Tried pulling on the recoil and it wouldn't budge. We took the belt off so we could tow it back. After it sitting for a few minutes my friend was able to rotate the primary back and forth. To me it looked like he could rotate it pretty easily.

We towed it back to the barn pulled the covers and hood off and I pulled the plugs and they smelled very metally. If that is a word. I only have 2800 miles on my 2015 sled and have always ran the VES oil with a vented oil cap. Before my sled even hit the trail the cap was vented. So during my maintenance I must have messed something up. Frustrated. I called it a day and went home.
First, how low was the coolant before you sucked coolant out and removed the cylinder? If not low, then the coolant found in bottom of crankcase likely came from the teardown. If so, I wouldn't worry about any rust damage to crank bearings. Coolant doesn't normally cause rust or it would in any cooling system. It has rust inhibitor in it.

This cylinder and piston damage looks like a lack of oil or fuel.

If oil, it should have affected both cylinders.

If fuel, it can be a bad/stuck injector or air leak. Maybe even water in fuel/frozen fuel/water. Were you using non-ethanol fuel? Did you use any deicer? A plug inspection might indicate if it was fuel related. Also, look at underside of piston as well as top of piston and inside combustion chamber of head. Check fuel for evidence of water in it. Have injectors tested as well. Was fuel filter properly replaced? Might want to check it.

Shouldn't need to replace both pistons if only one cylinder was affected, but might as well while apart. Even if you do, you can just lightly scuff the good cylinder with a ball hone designed for that. I do it all the time.

Finally, SPI has decent pistons/rings and even gaskets for this I would think. Call a local Motorsports shop for this.

After rebuild, make sure to bleed cooling system as recommended in shop manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for the reply.
The coolant level didn't look low in the reservoir when I tried sucking it out from there. I ended up disconnecting the line at the thermostat and shop-vac'd that hose then removed the thermostat and sucked from that direction.

I have always put ethanol free gas in the sled and ran it in ETHO mode just in case I ever ran across a gas station that had ethanol based gas.

The temperature that day was around 30 degrees F. out. I did not use any deicer.
It was definitely one cylinder that was bad. The other one actually looks good. The both cylinders instead of one for oil makes sense.
The water in fuel/ plugged injector/ air leak has piqued my interest and is something to look at as well. Thank you for that.

I was thinking of replacing both pistons just to be on the safe side seeing as I already have everything apart.
 

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Sounds like a clogged fuel injector or an air leak somewhere on that cylinder. If around 5k miles i'd replace both pistons. As far as the cylinder might be able to save it by having it re-plated
 

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I second the spi pistons. Definitely would pull motor and split cranckcase and check things out. New crank seals for sure and definitely check reads closely. I turn those oil pumps up also. The linkage from throttle bodies down to oil pump is ok but have seen them not be consistently adjusted. Replace wrist pin bearings also. Check for a kink in oil line. It can be tricky getting it routed right and maybe it was kinked. Injectors should be cleaned. It is always a good idea to mix first tank of gas any time oil injection system is worked on. Fill oil tank to top, mix first tank and see how muck oil you are using per tank of fuel.
 
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