Well put in the strait 53 then LOL.............the 500 wont pull it on the topOriginally posted by CatzAzz+Dec 13 2002, 06:38 PM--><!--QuoteBegin-BullwhipMy F5 is pulling a 62/50 and it pulls hard from the minute I grab the flipper to the second I let off [/b]@Dec 13 2002, 01:55 PM
The 500 probably doesn't have enough snort to pull the 53.
I haven't ridden the F5, so I'm not doubting you, the 62 just sounds pretty extreme! Do you have it shimmed to quickly transition to the 50? How is the backshift, and where do you run the spring? I set up a POO XC6SP with a Cat roller last fall, and we had no luck with anything steeper than a 60-55.Originally posted by CatzAzz@Dec 13 2002, 06:38 PM
My F5 is pulling a 62/50 and it pulls hard from the minute I grab the flipper to the second I let off
Olav Aaen has published lots of good stuff. You can get his books through lots of snowmobile parts places like Dennis Kirk or Shadetree, or call Aaen Performance direct at (414)552-8981Originally posted by F7 Firecat@Dec 14 2002, 10:29 PM
Anyone know where I can learn more about clutching for sleds. Any books websites etc. I would like to learn more if possible.
I wasn't suggesting the moveable sheave moves less if the helix is shimmed. The fact that it must move the same distance is exactly my point. I use a few different multi-angle helixes including Arctic Cat, Black Magic and some custom grinds. Most of them you can not see the transition, however if you place a straight edge on the helix, you can see there is a portion of transition, and two distinct "straight" areas. If the helix was cut such that the ramp slowly changed from the beginning number, say 60, to the final number, say 50, an unshimmed helix may never hit the 50. Obviously, the rollers travel the same distance regardless of the amount of shimming, so if you are hitting the 50 without shimming, you will hit the 50 quicker with a shim. Anyway, what ever you are doing works for you, and that's what matters. What are you riding this year? I picked up a standard F7, in black a couple week ago, but haven't been able to ride yet due to the lack of snow here in central MN. If you're on an F7, I'd be interested to know what you end up with for clutching/gearing.Originally posted by Ron@Dec 15 2002, 09:19 AM
Bullwhip, I don't know what type of multiangle helixs you are using, but all the good machined ones have a transition with in the machining that you can not see, changing the angle as you go down the curve. I have seen some poorly machined ones that you can actully see the the step where the change angle, I stay away from them. So in turn if you shim the back of the helix you are starting down the curve or at a smaller angle.
I hope your rollers are hitting the helix in the begining. Read what you wrote about your moveable sheave, it still has to move the same distance as before (the clutch opening) because the belt is the same width and the clutch has to open to get full range. Hence the rollers traveling the same linear distance to open the clutch just in a different spot on the helix. What you are saying is your roller would not be at the bottom of the helix or the clutch would not open if you think it travels a shorter distance.
If you think those step helixs are good, how can you plan where they are going to be when your clutchs are changing 1000s of times or varibles when you ride. They may work better in a drag race, but still would stay away from the and get a good machined mutiangle one. <_<