Let me know how that works out. I am going riding in a little bit. I am taking two F5's. One with the rear end low, one with it high. I'm going to ride them back to back and see what happens.
[/quote]Originally posted by Red Devil@Jan 30 2006, 11:29 PM
Moving the rear skid to the top hole (like my '03) and pulling the limiters takes out a lot of suspension, especially when you need it for the whoops...noticealbly more.:div20:
[/quote]Originally posted by Noodle@Jan 31 2006, 09:49 AM
Moving to the upper holes does not reduse travel in the suspension, it just lowers the overall height of the sled. If it is that bad move to the upper holes, balance runners with the studs and when you get into a fast turn, get forward and lean alot (it's fun).
Play with the suspension settings a little, but these sleds need alot or rider input. I think that is some of the fun about these sleds. I think what I am learning about the lighter and more powerfull sleds are that if you tell the sled what you want it to do it will (rider input), if you sit back and ask, it will teach you a lesson, fast.
Good luck with the setup. Trial and error works best.
[/quote]Originally posted by indytriple@Jan 31 2006, 10:08 AM
I've already given the recipe for a good handling 05SP, it will not push, it will not dart, it will ride nice and it will wheelie if you want it too. Again, Loose on the front skid shock, torsion set to your liking, couplers OUT if unstudded, in if studded but coupled set to 1, and 55-65 psi in the floats, and skid mounted in stock SP position,Limiters in stock position! bars pivoted more forward- so riser is essentially vertical(this makes a huge difference by getting rider weight more forward).
With C&A ski's this setup has zero push even on the gas mid corner, gets into the corner extremely stable as we have not put an assload of weight on the ski's, does not dart for the same reason, does not nose dive into bumps, and comes out of a corner like a mother F'ker, and rides suprisingly soft, even for a lightweight.
I ride fast flat trails in Aroostook county Me, and ride rough moguled out trails in NH, I also love the ocassional lake race, and guess what, the sled handles near perfect in all those conditions. These other setups are biased towards way to much ski pressure IMHO, this will cause darting, unstable corner entry, lack of grip exiting the corner, and an overall uninspiring ride. If you want something that biased towards ski pressure, you got the wrong sled! The 05SP can flat out rail a corner even with the skid mounted in the stock position and changing the limiter position in an 05sp will F up your rail angle and cause even more issues. :m2c: :firecats_rule:
[/quote]Originally posted by nikstrik7@Feb 5 2006, 09:26 PM
Id like to take you up on your offer, not about whos faster or whatever, but it sounds like we ride alot alike
my setup is similar to yours, but I think the most important thing you said was
'' incredible on the brakes and in corners" that is the key to cornering fast on a firecat. I go into the entry of the corner wide open and brake very late and very hard right to the apex of the corner then whack the throttle open. firecats have great turn in under braking. most people make the mistake of braking too early and trying to power through the corner, firecats will push and get into nasty ski lift if ridden this way .
I might be up by my buddy s cabin in east jordon a couple weekends in feb. pm me if your up for a ride. we can take turns chasing each other for a day. sounds like your buyin anyway , I like mine well (lol)
No problem, I do this setup stuff for a living at my shop (on bikes) so it's fun doing it on something completely different. Not to mention, if I get every Firecat set up perfect those REV guys won't know what hit them (remind me to tell you the story of the fast guys on REV800X's that I smoked through the trails last week.....and then got to tell them my sled is a 500 :beerchug: )Thanks for taking the time and effort to put a post up like this.[/b]
I have not had a chance to screw arround with a non SP, but you probably have better spring rates on yours so that is a good thing. I imagine they are still progressive though, which is not the best solution. But I digress. Set the sled up to the sag measurements that I outlined above. 3" front, 2.5" rear. You will need to use more spring preload than the SP springs, but that is irellivent. The sag numbers are the goal. If you continue to bottom out (use a zip tie on the shaft to verify) then you will either need to use a stiffer spring, or a liniar rate spring, or change tha valving. In effect you set the sag where you want it, then you spring/valve for performance.I have a 05 F7r (not Snow Pro). You are recomending 5mm preload on the front skis. I measure 2.75 inches from the bottom thread on the shock to the plastic collar,, I tried lowering the collar by 1 or 2 turns but found I was bottoming alot,,, I only trail ride,, no jumping (intentionally anyways). Is the 5mm for a Sno Pro model?[/b]
You guys are on the correct path here. In effect the other mounting hole will create a "softer" spring/shock combo. But the main reason to move it is that you will be pulling the limiter straps up to the point where the shock starts getting compressed. If you move it to the center hole the shock will be able to get it's travel back.Also,,,,, concerning the 3 possible positions for the bottom mount of the front skid shock/spring. Mine is in the front hole. Could you explain what the impact is to the suspension is when you move from hole to hole.
My buddy and I were looking at those last week and the best we could come up with was the spring rate (or tension) can change without impacting the ride. eg front hole with collar almost on lowest thread,,,, front of skid suspension bottoms easy,,,, 2nd hole = can stiffen spring up for the bumps without impacting ride. Are we close or no cigar?[/b]
I couldn't feel a lot of difference, but unlike I am suposed to I made three changes at once (limiter straps, softer rear springs, lowered rear ride height) so it was hard to decern what effected what the most. It was definitly preferable to let the shock sit in a posistion that would allow it to use all of it's travel though.You are suggesting 2nd hole,, just wondering what you noticed changing when you went from front to middle hole.[/b]
Yeah, my web guys got me section8snowmobiles.com (my shop is section8superbike.com, kinda cute huh). When I get all the spring charts together, with suggested rates based on rider weights I will put up a step by step instructions on how to set up the sled, including pictures and what springs to get for your application.Thanks again for this info,,,,,,,, I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for when you post your website address.[/b]