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We ran about 250 km yesterday around Innisfil, Barrie, Midland and through that whole part of Ontario. About 10 km from the trucks I lost about half power, so I paused and popped the hood. A fuel line popped off of the fuel pump going to the PTO carb. I put it back on and gave the sled a shot to see how things were. Everything seemed okay, so I waited a few seconds for the group to catch up. They reached me, and then from a stop I hit the throttle a second time. This time once I hit 6000 rpm the mill spun like crazy and I stopped moving. Yay for carnage in the chain case!

I'm a mechanic, so I'm going to take the sled into work on Monday to pull the cover off. Once I'm there I'll find out exactly what I need. I really hope that it's just a basic replace the chain, do the oil seal and be done with it. I really hope that I didn't take the splines off of the shaft or destroy a gear or anything like that.

I have a few questions though, as I've never had to open the chaincase on a sled.

Installation

1. Torque specs on the retainer nuts for the upper and lower sprockets?
2. How much tension should I put on the new chain?

Theory

3. Is it worth regearing? I mean, I like the power band as it is, but does something magical happen with these sleds if I drop or add teeth? This is more a concern if A sprocket broke, I guess.
4. 13 wide? That's stock, right? Can I fit a wider chain and gearset in there? Are these things known for grenading?


Thanks guys! Any info you can give will definitely help out.
 

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We ran about 250 km yesterday around Innisfil, Barrie, Midland and through that whole part of Ontario. About 10 km from the trucks I lost about half power, so I paused and popped the hood. A fuel line popped off of the fuel pump going to the PTO carb. I put it back on and gave the sled a shot to see how things were. Everything seemed okay, so I waited a few seconds for the group to catch up. They reached me, and then from a stop I hit the throttle a second time. This time once I hit 6000 rpm the mill spun like crazy and I stopped moving. Yay for carnage in the chain case!

I'm a mechanic, so I'm going to take the sled into work on Monday to pull the cover off. Once I'm there I'll find out exactly what I need. I really hope that it's just a basic replace the chain, do the oil seal and be done with it. I really hope that I didn't take the splines off of the shaft or destroy a gear or anything like that.

I have a few questions though, as I've never had to open the chaincase on a sled.

Installation

1. Torque specs on the retainer nuts for the upper and lower sprockets?
2. How much tension should I put on the new chain?

Theory

3. Is it worth regearing? I mean, I like the power band as it is, but does something magical happen with these sleds if I drop or add teeth? This is more a concern if A sprocket broke, I guess.
4. 13 wide? That's stock, right? Can I fit a wider chain and gearset in there? Are these things known for grenading?
Thanks guys! Any info you can give will definitely help out.
[/quote


In my 99tcat i have a spring loaded tensioner to keep even tension on the chain as it stretches over time so you dont have to put manual tension on the chain. If you decide to regear make sure you get the correct link chain for the gearing you decide to go with... once you start changing the gearing by 2 teeth or more then you need a different sized chain. If you decide to regear somtimes reclutching is necessary to exploit the extra low, mid or top end you are going for with the gear change. In your upper post you are worried about the inside of your chaincase and what you might find... if you blew your chain and coasted to a stop then the chain will be sitting at the bottom in a pile of shavings. If you blew the chain and locked the track right up i would be scared to pull the chain case off but when i blew mine i coasted to a stop and all i had to do was clean the case out and put a new chain in. When i blew my chain i was water crossing with my tcat several years ago... when that chain blew halfway across i had just enough to get across to the other side... Chains go overlooked by alot of people i talk to... you need to check them every year and on big bore triples must be changed every 2000-3000 miles because after that the links start to crack... after that its a ticking timebomb.
 
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