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Discussion Starter #1
My kids are running new to us Fusions this year and we finally got a chance to ride a couple times this week. One is running a little warmer than the other so I am seeking advice.

Wednesday, 35degF or so:
Red Fuse seemed to be running at what I would consider normal temps. Blue Fuse was running warmer. Red fuse rider is 165#, Blue Fuse rider 225#. While climbing a pretty big hill with poor snow cover Blue got up around 170deg. Once we got on the seasonal roads and let er rip temps fell into the 130 range, Red peaked around 150ish on the hill and ran 130s on the flats.

Friday, 40degF or so:
Throughout the day Blue seemed to run 10-20deg warmer than Red. For most of the day we would pack the running boards with snow whenever we stopped.

The only differences I can think of are that Blue fuel screws are out 1.5 while Red are out 2.5 and the weight of the rider. Would fuel screws affect temp at low speed? Once you open it up and keep it there it cools right down.

I've checked coolant levels and it doesn't appear to be losing any.

As always, Thanks in advance!
E

:bc:
 

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Sure if the fuel screws are allowing a slightly richer mixture to the motor, it'll generally run a touch cooler, but you need to take in other accounts like the thermostat, tps setting, and the riders weight where the rear torsions springs are set that are allowing the snow flap to settle low enough. Lots of variables that can make a difference in water temps. Even a tiny bit of air in the system can cause a huge difference.
 

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Fusions run on the warm side. Known issue.

2.5 turns out on fuel screws is RIDICULOUSLY rich unless it has something like a 1.2 or bigger pilot air jet in it (if they even make paj that big)

If mixture is the ONLY difference other than rider weight, then I would say yes, that is the cause of your coolant temperature difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sure if the fuel screws are allowing a slightly richer mixture to the motor, it'll generally run a touch cooler, but you need to take in other accounts like the thermostat, tps setting, and the riders weight where the rear torsions springs are set that are allowing the snow flap to settle low enough. Lots of variables that can make a difference in water temps. Even a tiny bit of air in the system can cause a huge difference.
I figured the fuel screws would account for some, but not all of it. I assume the thermostat is opening as it should as it runs cool at speed, but that is my assumption and nothing more. I did not check the TPS when I cleaned the carbs. Should that be the same 4.1V at open throttle as the older Libertys? Torsions are med for Red (165# rider) and high for Blue (225# rider), sit in seems to be the same, but I will check again on the next ride. I'll see if I can get any air out next time I get a chance.

Thank You
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Fusions run on the warm side. Known issue.

2.5 turns out on fuel screws is RIDICULOUSLY rich unless it has something like a 1.2 or bigger pilot air jet in it (if they even make paj that big)

If mixture is the ONLY difference other than rider weight, then I would say yes, that is the cause of your coolant temperature difference.
When I bought these 2 machines they were already set this way. I left them as they were to see the difference. My 165# son was not happy when his 225# brother pulled away from him in a short drag race..lol This was done after we were able to open them up for a while and cool em down. I need to turn that down some.

On our next trip out I am going to have them switch sleds to see if the heat difference follows the fat ass. The Red one has a 1.25" Ripsaw and the Blue a 1" Hacksaw. I planned on having them switch anyway to compare notes once they had a few miles in the seat. I didn't feel like adjusting the torsion blocks yesterday so I left them on their respective sleds.

Quesion: If this does come down to weight, would increasing the engagement RPM make the issue better or worse? I'm not a big fan of working a motor hard at low speed. I'm also not a very good mechanic. :dunno::lol:
 

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Changing the engagement speed won’t change anything.

Tracks can also cause a bit of a difference. I’ve run a lot of different tracks on my Fusion over the years and the best for cooling was a studded Ripsaw. Currently I’m running an Ice Ripper.

Fuel screws won’t hurt drag race results unless the sleds are left idling for a bit of time and then immediately raced after that. The factory idle mixture setting on these sleds was very rich. I run 1.25 turns out and .8 pilot air jets. Mine can idle practically forever and not load up.
 

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When I bought these 2 machines they were already set this way. I left them as they were to see the difference. My 165# son was not happy when his 225# brother pulled away from him in a short drag race..lol This was done after we were able to open them up for a while and cool em down. I need to turn that down some.

On our next trip out I am going to have them switch sleds to see if the heat difference follows the fat ass. The Red one has a 1.25" Ripsaw and the Blue a 1" Hacksaw. I planned on having them switch anyway to compare notes once they had a few miles in the seat. I didn't feel like adjusting the torsion blocks yesterday so I left them on their respective sleds.

Quesion: If this does come down to weight, would increasing the engagement RPM make the issue better or worse? I'm not a big fan of working a motor hard at low speed. I'm also not a very good mechanic. :dunno::lol:
I feel all of mine(5) except for one of them run hot. The one that runs cool is my oldest son’s sled...and he is a fatass checking in at 275 pounds without gear.

Weight doesn’t mean shit on my fleet. He does have tempa flow and his sled was purchased from the owner of MCB performance...Owners wife’s personal sled when I bought it. Matt probably did something to help keep it cool...maybe worth a call to MCB.
 

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Even my two identical 05 600 edges never ran the same temps. This later one definitely runs hotter....i can feel it in my right foot. I've often try to find the reason why, and never did till this day. Long as its not over heating, and runs strong, i've come to not worry about it.
 

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Changing the engagement speed won’t change anything.

Tracks can also cause a bit of a difference. I’ve run a lot of different tracks on my Fusion over the years and the best for cooling was a studded Ripsaw. Currently I’m running an Ice Ripper.

Fuel screws won’t hurt drag race results unless the sleds are left idling for a bit of time and then immediately raced after that. The factory idle mixture setting on these sleds was very rich. I run 1.25 turns out and .8 pilot air jets. Mine can idle practically forever and not load up.
I wonder why poo went back to paj's on the 600 for the fusion 6. Imo the adjustable air jet screw was a better option.
 

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Even my two identical 05 600 edges never ran the same temps. This later one definitely runs hotter....i can feel it in my right foot. I've often try to find the reason why, and never did till this day. Long as its not over heating, and runs strong, i've come to not worry about it.
My opinion is under hood heat is contained because there is not as big of an area beneath hood like the Edge sleds.

I have thrown venting at all of them. I added the venting behind front shocks in belly pan to one and it helped. I am just afraid the belt will blow on clutch side and make a real mess.

My son’s IQR has vents in console right by pull cord. I can feel heat on my right knee when riding it. Never feel any heat on my Fuze 6’s. I also have clutch guard tool holders that I am sure doesn’t help get hot air out.
 

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I only put a vent on the mag side because my right foot use to feel like it was on fire.

I can tell you this, I’ve never really seen the front radiator/cooler work well (even when I had it running in series all the time). It just doesn’t get any airflow through it. However, I was riding 4 west on the power lines by the potato fields Wednesday. The wind was up and straight out of the west. Coolant temps dropped so far that the thermostat was cycling. Zero change in trail/snow conditions. I always thought that I should try to find a way to get air to flow through that cooler better and THEN put it back in a series flow configuration but, I’m old fat and lazy. :lol:
 

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I only put a vent on the mag side because my right foot use to feel like it was on fire.

I can tell you this, I’ve never really seen the front radiator/cooler work well (even when I had it running in series all the time). It just doesn’t get any airflow through it. However, I was riding 4 west on the power lines by the potato fields Wednesday. The wind was up and straight out of the west. Coolant temps dropped so far that the thermostat was cycling. Zero change in trail/snow conditions. I always thought that I should try to find a way to get air to flow through that cooler better and THEN put it back in a series flow configuration but, I’m old fat and lazy. :lol:
Old, fat and lazy here too. Never ride long enough anymore where it is a problem. When I heat up I pull over and throw snow all over tunnel...and watch my soon to be 17 year old drive the piss out of his IQR that rarely gets over 110 degrees while I cool down.
 
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