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Many have been experiencing the dreaded fuel surge on the Procross sleds when the fuel gets below half a tank. Greensmob posted a fix for this back in January of 2012 and many that have done the fix have not had the surge again. I too just did mine on my 2013 XF Turbo 1100 this weekend and my surge seems to be gone as well! So thanks Greensmob for figuring this issue out!

Here are some pics to help do the job yourself. I had never done one before but it seriously took me less than 2 hours and that was with the dis-assembly of all the plastics and re-install of everything.

Here is the summary of what Greensmob posted. It is really that simple:
Get your fuel pump assembly out of the sled, look at the smart valves mine was built as follows front smart valve had green diaphragm which is non-vented, the rear two valves were vented one and non-vented the other.
I took the vented one apart just pops apart with a small flat head, and swapped the vented diaphragm white in color to the front smart valve. I’m thinking once the front valve closed the suction from the pump wouldn't let the valve release. Now with the vented diaphragm it still shuts but there is enough of a vacuum break in the diaphragm to let it open again.
STEP 1: Remove all plastics to get to your fuel assembly
smart_valves_1.jpg

STEP 2: Remove fuel assembly. It’s comes out as one whole unit.
smart_valves_2.jpg

STEP 3: Place assembly on a clean area. Make sure you place it where you don’t mine fuel leaking. Fuel will leak out of the assembly and valves.
smart_valves_3.jpg

STEP 4: You can see the difference here of the vented and non-vented value. Notice how the non-vented is still closed shut holding the fuel. You want the non-vented valves (green ones on my assembly) to be in the BACK of the fuel tank!
smart_valves_4.jpg

STEP 5: Here are the two valves disassembled. See the white one has a hole for venting. This is the valve you want at the top of the fuel assembly. Simply use a small flat screw driver to separate the valves from the valve body. VERY simple to do! You DO NOT need to disconnect the fuel line and switch the whole valve.
smart_valves_5.jpg

STEP 6: Reassemble everything and feed the fuel assembly back into the tank. You need to make sure you get the two back valves into the back of the tank and placed at the bottom of the tank. Some have used a coat hanger and bent it to allow you to feed the lines and valves back in there. My friend had a skinny enough arm to get his whole arm into the tank to help place them back in there. Here is a pic of the fuel tank for reference. You can see how there is not much fuel depth when fuel gets low.
smart_valves_6.jpg

STEP 7: Put everything back together and test! No more surge for my sled!
smart_valves_7.jpg

Hope these help. It really wasn't difficult at all to do. Your wife will love it though when the fuel smell creeps into the house. :whistle:
 

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2021 VR1 850, 18 Tiger 8000, 17 RS 6000, 16 ZR 6000, 12 F1100T, 11 EXT 800, 09 Z1 Turbo, 05 ZR 900
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I have never had a surge issue, but holy cow how did your buddy get his arm all the way to the back of the tank?
 

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I have never had a surge issue, but holy cow how did your buddy get his arm all the way to the back of the tank?
Vince,

He has very long skinny arms. lol. You don't need to reach all the way back there, just enough to make sure the valves get placed correctly.
 

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I don't have the problem either, but great post, your pics, with labels are excellent. Thanks for the post!
 

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Awesome post, I used and recommend people to use Greensmob's idea but you explain and illustrate it perfectly. :thumbsup:
 

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Great write up. Is that wire with the two white plastic blocks on the end what needs to be adjusted to make the gas gauge more accurate? Thanks
 

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I did this on my 2013 f-8 lxr and it fixed it perfectly until the other day at 1300 miles it started to do it again. very disapointing , thought it was fixed for ever. Not sure what to do now, or if maybe I picked up some water or something.
Anyone have any ideas?
 

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I did this on my 2013 f-8 lxr and it fixed it perfectly until the other day at 1300 miles it started to do it again. very disapointing , thought it was fixed for ever. Not sure what to do now, or if maybe I picked up some water or something.
Anyone have any ideas?
probably the springs are stuck again. Call the dealer, they can get some of the tapered springs that work better.
 

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Just the spring stuck! Mine did it too! I just stretched the spring a little and all good again! If you can get the tapered version all the better!
 

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Great Post!! The pics make it easier for someone who is tackling it the first time.

So where is the pic of your buddy with his arm stuck in the tank??:roflmao:Just kidding!

  • But really as per the question below... What are folk doing to make their gage more accurate?
  • One last question.. the outlet line leaving the fuel the pump, is it routed over or under the spars? I couldn't remember when I was putting it back together after doing the tunnel, so I ran it over the spars, but it is still under the cowling around the filler neck.
Thanks

Great write up. Is that wire with the two white plastic blocks on the end what needs to be adjusted to make the gas gauge more accurate? Thanks
 

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THANK YOU

I would like to say thanks to this thread.. I've had a surge problem on my 800RR since the beginning. Dealer gave me a new set of pick up valves no fix, a new fuel pump no fix... I finally read this post, did the switch and problem solved..

Thanks again!
 

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I did the same to mine as the dealer couldn't seem to get it right after 3 attempts......I did it again but I attribute that to rolling the sled over often to unstick it in the hills. Be careful about the angle of the fuel line going to the valves and adjusting the float height got my gauge much more accurate....wonder why they can't get it right from the factory or even at the dealers.
 

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I would like to say thanks to this thread.. I've had a surge problem on my 800RR since the beginning. Dealer gave me a new set of pick up valves no fix, a new fuel pump no fix... I finally read this post, did the switch and problem solved..

Thanks again!
Is this like a bog or bucking when you get near half tank?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Snowmobile.com App
 

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I too want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. Mine started surging at the end of last season. Swapped the valves around yesterday, now we just need more snow for testing!
 
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