Hardcore Sledder banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 04 F7 Efi sno pro with 2 degree timing key and an ODS clutch kit. I don't want ask the same question thats probably been asked before, but here it goes. I want to add the BMP pipe mod and the D&D Y-pipe. If I add those two mods, do I have to add the inline fuel reducer? Will that require a boondocker for optimum performance? and what if any clutch adjustments need to be made to my ODS clutch kit. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,121 Posts
i dont know alot, but the boondocker is way more expensive but you can do finer tuning with it, but the fuel reducer seems to work very well....from my knowledge anyways!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,259 Posts
with those mods you can easily add a fuel reducer...I have similar mods and even the ODS clutch kit and I run a restricter. Ever sled is different but you are going to want to add EGT's between the exhaust mods, timing, and Fuel restricted your motor can tend to get plenty hot between 6-7000 rpms.

As for the ODS kit, you will probably need to add some weight to the primary to make up for the added hp. Beyond that its all in tuning...each sled is different.


Edit: Just realized I never answered your question...you never NEED to add a fuel reducer and none of the mods mentioned would warrant the use of a boondocker as you should be plenty safe with the stock fuel flow. I think you should research further what the boondocker is as it is not simply a fuel reducer...it allows you to fine tune fp throughout the RPM range adding and subtracting fuel as you see fit. A FP reducer simply reduces fuel flow at WOT to create a "lean" condition creating more HP at those high rpms.

You will never run a fp restricter AND a boondocker as the boondocker will do what a restricter does...which is why it costs so much more. FP restricter=$150, Boondocker=$400

Boondocker is needed for mods like twins, porting, big bore, etc. But like I said ever sled is different...if your sled is extremely lean stock, then you may need it, but it is VERY rare.

Hope that helps,
Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
871 Posts
I have one of those very rare 700s. I would not add any restrictions unless you dyno tune your sled,its a few hundred dollars to do but you can tune your sled to whatever you feel is a safe set-up [air fuel ratio] for you.If I had added the restriction to mine I would have blown it up,because mine was lean from the factory. I added the 2* timing key and my sled made 149.5 HP,I then added a Speedwerx single pipe and my sled made 152.5 HP.After that pull Jim at Dyno-tech told me not to do anything else to it as it was getting close to running on the edge. I probably run my sled a little bit leaner than some suggest but I run 93 octane most of the time and I do not hold it WFO for long periods of time.[1/4 mile or less ,races is all I do] I put 1500 miles on it last year with no problems. The way some of the guys on here were bashing my setup I expected to blow it up on my first ride,but I trusted Jim @ Dynotech that it was safe as long as I did not hold it WFO for long runs and he was right. The EGTs are a good thing also but you need to understand what they are telling you To hot means melting pistons. I say call your local Dyno operator and ask what they recomend for you ,whether it is Jim @ Dyno-tech or Bikeman [I don't know of any others] they are both good guys.If you decide to Dyno it you need to realize that you are paying by the hour so you might want to install as much as you feel safe installing before you go.You don't want to be paying Dyno time while your sled is strapped to the dyno and you are trying to change the timing key.Anybody with a Boondocker they want to get rid of e-mail me. :beer:
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
1,401 Posts
Our BMP pipe mod works with stock fuel also. Your ODS clutch kit should be just fine too with our pipe mod. Usually if your clutched for 7700-7800 at wide open, the extra power from the pipe mod will increase your rpms about 200 rpms or so. This is just right since the pipe mod has a broader powerband and revs higher for more top speed. The inline reducer we offer has a fuel pressure gauge. If you have one that only has about 42-43 psi at idle, you probably don't need the fuel reducer. But most have idle pressure of 45 psi and sometimes as much as 47 psi.
If this is the cas you can turn the adjustment valve down to the 40-41 psi range at wide open throttle to achieve about another 4-5 hp over what the pipe mod does.
Dyno sessions always help to dial you in of course if you aren't comfortable field tuning the inline fuel reducer.
Hope this helps you out.
Thanks,
Erich
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top