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I have a standard suspension F7 and am having problems with the front of the rear skid bottoming over large bumps. I weight 180 and have been slowly stiffening up the suspension. Per the forums recommendation I loosened the front shock and the IFS shocks. The ride was quite smooth this way but noticed bottoming and have began to stiffen it back up again. I have tightened the rear springs to max setting, and currently have the front (skid) shock coil over tightened up so that roughly 1.5" of threads are showing on the shock body. It is still bottoming worse than I remember the old ZR over moguls. Any suggestions? Looking at other standard F7's in the parking lot it appears that they have not loosened up this spring...possibly because they were not informed.

I wonder if the recommendation to loosen the front (skid) springs was only intended for the stiffer sprung sno-pro sleds?

Thanks
 

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yes, there is a big difference in the standard vs snopro.. so maybe standards need a different setup. I don't have access to one to test the differences.. Maybe soon some of us can get together to test setups and skis and stuff.
 

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I HAVE A STD F-7,BUT NO PROBLEM BOTTOMING OUT,I WEIGH 200,& LOOSENED THE FRONT SKID SPRING ALSO,HAVE REAR SPRINGS SET AT LOWEST POINT ON THE BLOCK..
 

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I am 188# my set up and have not changed since pick up it
Front shocks 2.5 inches on bottom exposed.
frt.rail shock 1" exposed
rear springs on one
limiter strap not touched
.couplers on one.
have not notice any bottoming out except for I jump into a 15' deep detention pond with a hit at the top. I landed flat so it is to be expected. the way it set up reminds me of my four wheelers you have to really put pressure on inside turning side .can't sit back and turn I use the throttle to control the turn dirt track Racing style.Next time out If it ever snows here again I will try without coupler blocks and rear srings on 2 like book says but for the most part i am happy where its at. We need to make a post for standard f7's to see whats working for everone.
 

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I am 200 lbs and ride hard. Had the same problem at first. Run the rear adjusters on the stiffest and put your coupler blocks on 2. Coupling blocks make a big difference on the standard suspension. Coupling sooner really firms up the ride. You can also get away with a little preload on the front skid shock with the standard. 2.5 cm of thread exposed. It's perfect now. This sled also tends to hold alot of snow in the rear exchanger and tunnel. Lot's of extra weight right at the back. You need to compensate for that.
 

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green team7,

Coupling sooner seems to help. I tried it both ways and noticed a difference. The limiter straps just affect ski pressure. They will not stiffen the ride.
 

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CanadianF7 is correct, the higher settings on the coupler blocks will stiffen the ride.
Limiter straps affect ski pressure only.
 

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Dave,
Ran into a std F7 rider this weekend. He mentioned that he had a bottoming out problem his first couple of times out (the guy looked to be around 170). He ended up having the front skid shocked revalved last week and after 120 miles he said he has yet to bottom out the rear. He had LeBaron's revalve the shock. He now is going to have the other shocks re-done and now wishes that he would have spent the extra money for the snow pro package. I let him ride mine (F7 snopro) and I rode his for the same span and the shocks are way different.
 

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I go about 235 suited and have been bottoming more since I backed off the preload on the front skid shock spring. The sled became less tippy, but doesn't handle the bumps as well. I'm considering getting the "big boy" spring/revalve kit for 225 lbs +. My coupling block are on 3 and the torsion springs are at the highest settings. May also purchase a heavier front shock spring to reduce preload needed on std. spring.

catfish
 

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Originally posted by green team7@Jan 13 2003, 07:44 AM
I have a standard suspension F7 and am having problems with the front of the rear skid bottoming over other standard F7's in the parking lot it appears that they have not loosened up this spring...
There is a article on this problem in the last issue of sno-tech magazine, they suggested putting in a sno pro front skid shock spring.
 

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[/QUOTE]

Could you give the issue month or however they designate it? Doen't get Sno-Tech, but could probably borrow the issue from a friend.

Thanks,
catfish
 

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if you need suspension tuning tips feel free to e-mail me [email protected]. no way to cure all the problems listed here since suspension is taliored to the rider. i will say that though limiter straps mostly affect ski pressure it is untrue to say they only affect ski pressure that is false.
 

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Quoted from p. 28 of Jan/Feb 2003 SnowTech:

"Due to the geometry of the rear suspension and the size of the drivers, the front arm of a Firecat can not bottom out. If the sled encounters a bump in exactly the right position, it will hit the drivers instead of allowing the front arm to absorb the bump. This condition will only occure in extreme conditions with sharp bumps. It is not a problem with the front arm calibration, it is a characteristic of the design. The drivers are in the path of a set of sponsons on the bottom of the belly pan. The sponsons are there to reduce this effect, but they can not prevent it. The 170 pound Sno Pro front arm spring may help to reduce this effect on Standard calibrations if it is encountered frequently due to riding style or conditions."

-- Roy
 
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