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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone add flo Rites in the dash area in front of the gauge? Instead of using Slp's high flow intake set up. I thought about using it, but it's to intrusive, it blocks the gauge, and you have to hack to much of the dash area. But a couple strategic flo rights, wouldn't block the gauge, as they lay flat, and should add air flow. Combined with the shelf mod, should be worth a decent gain?
 

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Flo rites should work fine. I did the shelf mod on my 600 pro r. Noticably more intake noise. Gains? Not sure if any? Might be better on the 800.
 

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Depend whether engine mods have been done to gain any benefit from installing flow rites. On a stock motor the stock air box is fine, its resonance tuned for max performance. Its when you do porting, add bigger carbs, v force reeds, and pipes flow rites are needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Depend whether engine mods have been done to gain any benefit from installing flow rites. On a stock motor the stock air box is fine, its resonance tuned for max performance. Its when you do porting, add bigger carbs, v force reeds, and pipes flow rites are needed.
I have a shim, and vforce 3 r reeds, and will have a power commander for this winter. A small chance a pipe or Dynoport Y pipe. Also doing the ves solenoid delete, and try some pink springs. Would think improved air flow potential into the engine could help. I realize 2-3 hp is virtually un noticable by seat of the pants, but added altogether, every little bit helps. And it might add a sled length in a drag race over a distance.
 

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I have a shim, and vforce 3 r reeds, and will have a power commander for this winter. A small chance a pipe or Dynoport Y pipe. Also doing the ves solenoid delete, and try some pink springs. Would think improved air flow potential into the engine could help. I realize 2-3 hp is virtually un noticable by seat of the pants, but added altogether, every little bit helps. And it might add a sled length in a drag race over a distance.
In your case you'd need to try it and see. You can likely see a 2-3 hp variation between dyno pulls alone just changing plugs or the 2 stroke oil used, so you'd want to see more meaningful dyno pulls. Unless you, or someone is a very experienced tuner, your best off leaving the sled stock and work on traction, gear, and clutching depending what conditions you will run.
 

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the stock air filters if you want to call them that, are very restrictive. any amount of snow on them and air flow suffers. we see this with RMK's bogging etc. is the result. we thought something else was going on. nope that was it. we removed the foam just leaving the fine screen and added flow rites. that made a big difference. no bogging after the mod. while maybe the stock set-up is fine. it's not when any snow gets on them. more air won't hurt. we don't like the SLP set-up for the pro-ride. the axys one is fine and we use them a lot. so yes we have used flow rites on the pro chassis a number of times.

and yes it's all the little things that add up to make more power. the air box mod. a lone makes 2-4 h.p. depending on the sled. 600/800
 

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years ago i had some screens made by frog skinz is that what is now the flow rites or do they still go by frog skinz as stated i had snow dust issues making motor bog when getting off trail or breaking trail these resolved that problem
 

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the stock air filters if you want to call them that, are very restrictive. any amount of snow on them and air flow suffers. we see this with RMK's bogging etc. is the result. we thought something else was going on. nope that was it. we removed the foam just leaving the fine screen and added flow rites. that made a big difference. no bogging after the mod. while maybe the stock set-up is fine. it's not when any snow gets on them. more air won't hurt. we don't like the SLP set-up for the pro-ride. the axys one is fine and we use them a lot. so yes we have used flow rites on the pro chassis a number of times.

and yes it's all the little things that add up to make more power. the air box mod. a lone makes 2-4 h.p. depending on the sled. 600/800
If you ride mostly off trail or powder yeah, definitely install flow rites, but if your on groomed trail all the time, you don't need them for a stock sled. As far as the 2-4 hp gains, you'll never feel or see it, plus you can see those gains alone justl by installing new plugs. Dyno's can have variations between pulls so seeing a 2-3 hp gain isn't that unusual.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As far as feeling 2-4 hp, if a pipe gains 5 or 6, you feel that and it shows up in lengths in a race against the same sled. So, for the dollar, it's a great gain. Say, shim, reeds, shelf mod and some flo rites, all fine tuned with a Power commander, would be a noticeable gain, all enhanced by gearing and a good clutch set up, should be a dramatic difference.

Kinda wishing I would have got the Rev 2 kit from Rk Tek now. I think I would do that instead of a pipe/y pipe. If I got a pipe, I think I would give the DynoPort set up a shot. He doesn't claim big numbers, but I believe they are real. I think Rich Daily is a straight shooter, and doesn't bs.

As far as not modifying and leaving it stock, it's tough. I build performance and racing engines for a living, and do related machine work, etc, so, I have an above average idea of what is required, and how to make it all work, and I have a couple friends that specialize in the sled stuff too, not going at it blindly here. But, I do know what your saying, the further away from stock you deviate, the less reliable and more potential headaches you can create. But, I think everything I am doing, actually makes them more reliable.
 

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As far as feeling 2-4 hp, if a pipe gains 5 or 6, you feel that and it shows up in lengths in a race against the same sled. So, for the dollar, it's a great gain. Say, shim, reeds, shelf mod and some flo rites, all fine tuned with a Power commander, would be a noticeable gain, all enhanced by gearing and a good clutch set up, should be a dramatic difference.

Kinda wishing I would have got the Rev 2 kit from Rk Tek now. I think I would do that instead of a pipe/y pipe. If I got a pipe, I think I would give the DynoPort set up a shot. He doesn't claim big numbers, but I believe they are real. I think Rich Daily is a straight shooter, and doesn't bs.

As far as not modifying and leaving it stock, it's tough. I build performance and racing engines for a living, and do related machine work, etc, so, I have an above average idea of what is required, and how to make it all work, and I have a couple friends that specialize in the sled stuff too, not going at it blindly here. But, I do know what your saying, the further away from stock you deviate, the less reliable and more potential headaches you can create. But, I think everything I am doing, actually makes them more reliable.
Yeah, rich daily is a straight shooter. Whatever his findings you can pretty much believe it. Heck i even was going to have him build a lightweight can for my 95 xcr that had a lot of mods at the time while using the stock pipe. He advised me not to, saying he had to build it loud in order to work with the engine mods. I stuck with making the stock exhaust can work. I thought rich was a ski-doo man. I can vouch for his pipes when i had ktm bikes, they worked well for our new england conditions pumping out good useable power..
 

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You're exactly right Frankie. The mods you have on your sled, I think I've read all your posts, are what I would call optimizing the factory setup. You should have a great running reliable setup. I wouldn't hesitate adding the flowrites or some frogskin material. A fuel controller will bring it all together.
 

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we mod. every sled we get. bolt on mostly. and all these little mods make a huge difference. the best thing anyone can do is make sure everything is straight and true. balance everything that spins. the clutch would be #1 these can be way off. we see it all the time. and when every piece is balanced you don't have to worry about aligning it. shim your drive clutch to the belt you use. we run .005 clutch to belt clearance with a new belt. because theses wear in and them become .010-.020. make sure your drive shaft is straight to the tunnel and chain case. run your track loser than the factory spec. but don't over do it or you lose performance. same with the chain. the biggest gain on our pro-stock sled was using ceramic bearings. on ice we push the sled by the handle bars to the line. it's just like it has wheels on it. we are big fans of making a stock sled better. and it pays off. we win or run up front everytime we go racing. and put our stock sled in mod. classes and are still competitive.

so yes all these little things make a big difference in the end. our 18 assault pulled 158 h.p. three back to back pulls no pipe no motor mods at all. and i don't care about feeling h.p. we see it on timers. even 2 h.p. so every gain is a gain.
 

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I found shimming a clutch to .010'' is a bit extreme...have had belt issues when switching. When installing some new belts they don't have enough clearance. Max i go with is 015'', .020'' is always safe.
 

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I found shimming a clutch to .010'' is a bit extreme...have had belt issues when switching. When installing some new belts they don't have enough clearance. Max i go with is 015'', .020'' is always safe.

on our pro-stock. if we get it to the final with .005-.010 clearance we tighten it up to 0. it's made the difference in our wallet or putting back into the trailer. this always improves the 60' time. and in very close racing it's hard to get back by someone in 500' but it's hard on the belt and clutch heat. that's why we wait to the money run to do this.
 

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on our pro-stock. if we get it to the final with .005-.010 clearance we tighten it up to 0. it's made the difference in our wallet or putting back into the trailer. this always improves the 60' time. and in very close racing it's hard to get back by someone in 500' but it's hard on the belt and clutch heat. that's why we wait to the money run to do this.
How its changed. Back in the day with our piston port 650 wedge pro stocks we ran at least .060'' belt /sheave clearance with those high engagements to pinch the belt leaving the line. Tried those lower clearance amounts, and it'd smoke the belt. At that time our guys didn't lose very many races over a few years with that much clearance. As far as these case reed trail sleds go, i like to stick to around .020'' or a bit less. You have less hassles, and a smooth working clutch
 

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How its changed. Back in the day with our piston port 650 wedge pro stocks we ran at least .060'' belt /sheave clearance with those high engagements to pinch the belt leaving the line. Tried those lower clearance amounts, and it'd smoke the belt. At that time our guys didn't lose very many races over a few years with that much clearance. As far as these case reed trail sleds go, i like to stick to around .020'' or a bit less. You have less hassles, and a smooth working clutch
911 cover with adjuster. to much belt clearance and you jump the belt up the drive clutch. @ 7500 rpm engagement this would bog like a bitch. timers don't lye. our sled has done 4.89 @ 99 mph in 500'. and has beat 800 pro-stock sleds. Nate McCoy motor jaws pipes. pretty impressive for a short stroke 600 ves.
 

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911 cover with adjuster. to much belt clearance and you jump the belt up the drive clutch. @ 7500 rpm engagement this would bog like a bitch. timers don't lye. our sled has done 4.89 @ 99 mph in 500'. and has beat 800 pro-stock sleds. Nate McCoy motor jaws pipes. pretty impressive for a short stroke 600 ves.
You can't compare those old piston port fuji triples with the liberty case reed twins...different animal. The only good thing about those old piston port motors is they could turn some good rpms quick.
The liberty 600 twin was an overachiever when it came about, and it still performs well.
 
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