I finally had the chance to ride my new 600 (2004 with only 80 miles). I've studded the track and changed clutch weights (10-60), as I pulled the sled off of the trailer I noticed it lugging or learching in the front of the track. I figured the track would stretch some so I took it on a short ride (15 miles). I would feel this binding as I took off and then it would smooth out. When I returned to the cabin the track had quite a bit of slack, so I tightened it (1inch at 10-20 lbs of pressure) thinking it would be OK, now I think it's worse. It makes no noise at all on a stand, track chain tensioner is finger tight, and belt is seated well in the secondary. HELP!
T4[/b]

could be a variety of things. well u put studs in the track, id say check the clearance of your studs from the tunnel look for any wear marks. i had a indy special that did that to me once and that same sled i had to tighten the track quite a bit. also hate to say it but if it still happens even though its a low miles sled you might have your chaincase bearings or your clutch side and jackshaft bearings going out. there is so much torque on them shafts that if your track isnt tight or properly adjusted you put tramendous amouts of pressure on the bearings and they will burn up on you. only way to find out is to take them out n check them. on mine everything looked fine but i decided t o take it apart and sure enuf.

good luck

 

could be a variety of things. well u put studs in the track, id say check the clearance of your studs from the tunnel look for any wear marks. i had a indy special that did that to me once and that same sled i had to tighten the track quite a bit. also hate to say it but if it still happens even though its a low miles sled you might have your chaincase bearings or your clutch side and jackshaft bearings going out. there is so much torque on them shafts that if your track isnt tight or properly adjusted you put tramendous amouts of pressure on the bearings and they will burn up on you. only way to find out is to take them out n check them. on mine everything looked fine but i decided t o take it apart and sure enuf.

good luck[/b]

sounds like the drive belt has a burnt spot, (to easy on the trottle when first engaging)
pull it off the clutches and look at it REAL good

 

sounds like the drive belt has a burnt spot, (to easy on the trottle when first engaging)
pull it off the clutches and look at it REAL good[/b]

Yeah...1st thing i'd check is the belt also...maybe a bad spot. Be sure the track is aligned evenly...my buddy bought a used 05 xcsp 600 and found really bad drive sproket alignments from polaris...he had to remove the whole driveshaft assembly and kick the sprokets over quite a bit to get the track to align correctly once the skid was reinstalled. The original owner not knowing much about sleds had a similar complaint of noise and ratching that caused one side of the hyfax to turn black and melt some..seemed his polaris dealer told him his sled was within spec...just needing a common track adjustment...then telling him to just ride it..saying i'll get better after 500 miles :wtf:

 

Yeah...1st thing i'd check is the belt also...maybe a bad spot. Be sure the track is aligned evenly...my buddy bought a used 05 xcsp 600 and found really bad drive sproket alignments from polaris...he had to remove the whole driveshaft assembly and kick the sprokets over quite a bit to get the track to align correctly once the skid was reinstalled. The original owner not knowing much about sleds had a similar complaint of noise and ratching that caused one side of the hyfax to turn black and melt some..seemed his polaris dealer told him his sled was within spec...just needing a common track adjustment...then telling him to just ride it..saying i'll get better after 500 miles :wtf:[/b]

yeah i was gonna say the belt too but forgot haha, yeah them damn polaris dealers, went there for some new bearings and found out what they wanted for one bearing i got all four for the same price from dennis kirk.

 

yeah i was gonna say the belt too but forgot haha, yeah them damn polaris dealers, went there for some new bearings and found out what they wanted for one bearing i got all four for the same price from dennis kirk.[/b]

I don't begrudge polaris or other dealers for charging a fair price on a bearing or other parts as long as you compare apples to apples...everyones gotta eat... Not all bearings are created equal...ntn and toyo make some pretty good bearings for sleds among a couple others...lots of those other *****..korean..or even some of those eastern euro bearings are junk...thats why they are cheap...i'd never use them in my sled.

 

When I returned to the cabin the track had quite a bit of slack, so I tightened it (1inch at 10-20 lbs of pressure) thinking it would be OK, now I think it's worse.[/b]

The polaris specs for track tension are very tight IMO, my tracks are 1-1.5" with the track hanging free. Or just tight enough to not rachet.

As for the worn belt, it should be noticeable when running it on the stand too...?

 

I finally had the chance to ride my new 600 (2004 with only 80 miles). I've studded the track and changed clutch weights (10-60), as I pulled the sled off of the trailer I noticed it lugging or learching in the front of the track. I figured the track would stretch some so I took it on a short ride (15 miles). I would feel this binding as I took off and then it would smooth out. When I returned to the cabin the track had quite a bit of slack, so I tightened it (1inch at 10-20 lbs of pressure) thinking it would be OK, now I think it's worse. It makes no noise at all on a stand, track chain tensioner is finger tight, and belt is seated well in the secondary. HELP!
T4[/b]

Although not what your asking, but the "fingertight" chain tensioner is wrong.


Don

 

Although not what your asking, but the "fingertight" chain tensioner is wrong.
Don[/b]

What are the specs for the chain tensioner?
Thanks
T4

 

Checking belt next weekend,
thanx

 

What are the specs for the chain tensioner?
Thanks
T4[/b]

I usually finger tighten the tensioner bolt till i feel resistance and back off a 1/4-1/2 a tune and lock it down. Never had a chaincase problem ..ever.

 

The team secondary uses 1 bolt to adjust sheave width. This will not keep the sheaves parallel with each other at low speeds with a lot of load.

My sled acts like yours on pavement, or loading on trailer. Anytime theres a lot of friction on the skis. Throw a button in to test and your learching will go away.

Or get on snow ice or hardpack and see, bet your learching will be gone.

Run your track as loose as you can, when it starts to ratchet tighten it a 1/2 turn.

 

I've never used a button, what is it, and how does it work.

 

I've never used a button, what is it, and how does it work.[/b]

Its the older style polaris secondary clutch.