[gary6741]

We have a 2008 F8 that has a very intermittent stall. Will start cold normally, and may run perfectly for 100 miles. Shut it off for 5 minutes, drive about 20 feet and sometimes it stalls. Will restart immediately, and will run until you shut it off again. Sometimes it will have a hesitation, or a bog, but has never quit and not restarted. Put a fuel pressure gage on it and will maintain 40 psi at all times, and will hold that for days. We have repaired a few bare wires, changed a few parts with another machine that runs normally, but it still does the same thing. Exhaust valves are clean and adjusted properly as far as I can tell. Acts like when it starts, during a self check it sees something it doesn't like and turns itself off. It's very intermittent so when we find something wrong and fix it, then it works for a whole trip, we think we got it. Then it will do it again. Any suggestions?

 

[Super 8]

Not uncommon on those to have a cracked lower airbox letting in moisture and making them do odd things. Pull the inspection door on top of the airbox and have a look.

 

[gary6741]

Thanks, I'll have a look

 

[Super 8]

Any codes? Lights/dash work? RPM's good? I think that model was 77-7900. CCU, chassis control module can also be another culprit.

 

[gary6741]

Sets no codes, I don't think, it doesn't flash any. Unless it stores trouble codes like a car does. It just turns off. I can crank it before it stops moving and it restarts and can continue on. Seems to run perfectly, will pull hard till you run out of nerve or room. Only bothers after a warm restart. Start it cold with the starter or pull cord may run all day without an issue. Have ohm checked the stator and is in spec. I know that doesn't mean it doesn't have a problem, but you wouldn't think if it does it could recover that fast. Like I said it will restart before it stops moving, and may not bother again the rest of the day. We tried another engine controller, did the same thing. There is another module under the dash on the right side, but not sure what that one is for. Looks like a PIA to change so we are doing the simple things first.

 

[Super 8]

I'm guessing the coil since it's heat induced.

https://www.countrycat.com/arctic-cat/arctic-cat-part-3007-548-coil-assy-ignition-10

 

[gary6741]

It has 4 coils, wouldn't think they would all stop at the same time. What fires the coils? A car has an ignition module for spark, and when they have a problem this is exactly what they do.

 

[stronger800]

Module in the right is the Chassis control unit that was mentioned. Not hard to change, and when they fail, they fail slowly and strange things can happen. It is cheaper and easier to replace than a statue. I would replace that

 

[stronger800]

Some sleds lose their headlights only fail, other sleds only lost the reverse function, when they go really bad is when it starts to shut off the fuel pump. To install it, if it’s like 100cc sled, you have to unclip the wires out of the white connector to allow the wire to then slide between the fuel tank and the frame. That makes the job a lot easier. Otherwise you are removing the tank to get the wire out.

 

[Super 8]

0630-246 which is #10

 

[stronger800]

That says regulator.....I never had an electric start one, and it’s been so long, I can’t picture that part on those machines. I thought the CCU’s only had one big white connector, it was About like that one looks, aluminum, finned....but I’d think it would be labeled Chassis Control unit in the diagrams.

 

[bbcnova]

That says regulator.....I never had an electric start one, and it’s been so long, I can’t picture that part on those machines. I thought the CCU’s only had one big white connector, it was About like that one looks, aluminum, finned....but I’d think it would be labeled Chassis Control unit in the diagrams.

Yes thats the one you are thinking of too, its aluminum and finned. They are a plug and play type of swap.

 

[Super 8]

Stronger, when it subbed to different numbers, the names change also. Mine was plug and play on my 2008 F8 like bbcnova mentions.
Here is a more current number of it;

ARCTIC CAT CONTROL MODULE-DC REG

ARCTIC CAT CONTROL MODULE-DC REG Part # 0630-219 Arctic Cat OEM Part

www.countrycat.com

 

[stronger800]

I just can’t remember what they looked like. I know they melt inside, I’ve seen two that actually Smelled cooked. And the sled still ran. With no lights or reverse. They didn’t use to cost that much either.

 

[gary6741]

That is the mystery module I was wondering about. It always has 40 psi fuel pressure, fuel pump must keep running. Another thing we found today was the temperature sensor in the exhaust pipe tight in the threads, but the fitting in the pipe is loose. Sensor won't come out. We did check the air box like super8 mentioned, as far as we can tell that is ok. The donor sled is a 2007 and the number on that module is different. If that will work we'll give it a try. Gonna put the pipe off the donor tomorrow, that sensor is tight. Not sure how we missed that before as many times we had it apart. Thanks for all the replies.

 

[Super 8]

Here is a bunch of numbers that same CCU subbed to or from 0630-218, 0630-226, 0630-231, 0630-234, 0630-245

 

[gary6741]

I'll look tomorrow. Thanks

 

[stronger800]

Pipe sensor or not, tight, not tight, unplugged, sled should still run.

 

[gary6741]

Pipe sensor or not, tight, not tight, unplugged, sled should still run.

Thought so, just wanted to try something.

 

[gary6741]

Want to try changing the chassis module. Does that control anything that makes it run or does it mainly work the lites and other creature comforts like handwarmers?