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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need some advice on how to set my sled up
My facts
Im 5' 10" 190#
Currently have the Fox flots set at 75psi (nitrogn filled)
rear preload on #2
limiter strap is as I received it
I have 108 pixs
and have Deuce bars stud boy 9" wear rods
left coupler blocks in for now

331 miles this week in hurley,WI
1st the sled is awsome I had no soreness at all and it absorbed the bumps great everyone that rode it said (HollyShit Awsome in the bumps)

Problem : The sled would not dig in and get traction. I would just spin. front end wouldn't even lift up a little. 800X would woop me off the line 3 sleds and I would start catching them at 80 mph and start to pass at 95 mph or so.
I also fish tailed darted bad after i would pass a grommer on unpacked snow and if I gave it some good throttle i would just spin.

Biggest problem the sled just won't turn aggressively, had to slow way down in the turns
I'm willing to buy new skis if I have to but I have $150 wear rods on it. It should turn great. I had no ski lift at all

My rear boggy wheels took a betting from the looks of it, too

thanks in advance for your help in a reply
 

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well i would lower the psi 55 -60 max.. and i think with 120+ pounds of TQ you need more picks,, dont forget the rear skid is a floating skid, and will tranfer the power very differant,, the skis will not fly in the air like the old ones,, but mabey loosen the front rear shock, allmost so the spring rattles,, i have a 05 rev 800 ho ,, as well .. and the f 10 is going into a differant time zone, compared to the rev,, mabey as well your sled is one of the rich running sleds as well??
 

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DIDO to checking your front/ rear spring pre-load, backing off on the ski shock pressure and adding studs. You have that honey all jacked-up and ill handling.

For your weight, the torsion pre-load should be on #1. (let the rear work some more, soften it up a bit. I can't imagine that you were even close to bottoming-out the rear on #2)


Run your track at 1# free sag and put some

2beer
 

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wondering about your wheels being beat up? Do you have stock 1" track or did you go up to the 1.25" from Camoplast? The outside wheels (front idler and rear axle) are pulled in closer to slide rail to allow use of the 14" track. The track drive lugs (inside of track) outboard of the slide rail are narrower than standard to clear the wheel location. If you use an aftermarket track with standard width drive lugs they will touch your wheels. The fix according to Snotech
magazine is to use the slightly longer Jaguar axle and adjuster blocks for the rear to push the wheels back out as well as the Jag idler wheel mounts. I discovered the issue with the track in my garage and can't seem to get a reply from A/C or the dealer. I ordered the parts today, real cheap. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
wondering about your wheels being beat up? Do you have stock 1" track or did you go up to the 1.25" from Camoplast? The outside wheels (front idler and rear axle) are pulled in closer to slide rail to allow use of the 14" track. The track drive lugs (inside of track) outboard of the slide rail are narrower than standard to clear the wheel location. If you use an aftermarket track with standard width drive lugs they will touch your wheels. The fix according to Snotech
magazine is to use the slightly longer Jaguar axle and adjuster blocks for the rear to push the wheels back out as well as the Jag idler wheel mounts. I discovered the issue with the track in my garage and can't seem to get a reply from A/C or the dealer. I ordered the parts today, real cheap. Good Luck.[/b]
Stock 1" RipSaw,
I took my 9" Stud boy Deuce bars off and they look beat up bad!! I called stud boy and I sent them back to them and I waiting to hear from them. My brother has 8" woodys and my Dad has 10" Woodys doolys and they look fine. Im going to try the stock ones next trip and go from there. I hope Stud boy stands by there product, I have asked for 6" shaper bars as a replacement.
 
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