Hardcore Sledder banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I ran my F7 out of gas trying to burp it on its side. I heard the fuel pump whine, and it leaned out and stalled. What color is the wire that needs to be unplugged to prime the pump? I pulled the rear smart valve out and its collapsed. How do you free it up? There must have been air in the system after I raised the rear end up to stud it. I couldn't get any heat in the running boards after riding it for 5 minutes. Make sure the new procedure is followed, because I had bled mine previously with no air coming out. I must have freed up a pocket of air whenI raised the rear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
339 Posts
you need to connect the fuel pump to a battery, disconnect the fuel hose from the throttle body and fill with gas or spray carb cleaner in their, then hook up the pump up backwards to prime the pump, next reverse the pump connections so it will pump towards the injectors, should start pumping shortly, fill a bowl or glass to be sure before reconnecting the fuel hose, if it doesn't work repeat procedure worked fine for me.

JUST A WORD OF CAUTION DON,T RUN OUT OF GAS ON THE TRAIL OR ANY WHERE ELSE!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I'll try it. I have fuel in the rail and the line. Damn valve won't release. It sat all night.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Although it is not a good thing, I have found on past AC efi models that if you just be patient and wait 20-30 minutes it will fire back up and want more. Just don't bother pulling on the cord unless you have waited because you will not only be wasting time, .... also energy
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
20,855 Posts
Originally posted by BLABONTE@Dec 18 2002, 12:15 PM
Although it is not a good thing, I have found on past AC efi models that if you just be patient and wait 20-30 minutes it will fire back up and want more. Just don't bother pulling on the cord unless you have waited because you will not only be wasting time, .... also energy
LABONTE (hmmmm ... just where are you located?) ;)

In my experience with the older EFI's ... you're correct. However, I learned first-hand this past weekend that no amount of time was enough to fire my sled back up. The smart valve stuck shut, and would not open. My dealer tried starting it on Monday (problem occurred on Friday) and it still wouldn't start.

In theory, your're correct. But depending on the situation, it's not going to work 100% of the time.

Chris
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Chris, your'e right. It sat all night and still won't release. I'm taking it out tonight to see if I can blow through it. I just hope the 1st one isn't stuck also or the 12v drill battery is coming out. I would bet its only the 2nd one, the first should pass fuel or air the hose leading to the second. There is no visible venting that I could see last night that would let it release. I'm wondering if this is the same type of check valve they are using for the late model sleds with no fuel shut-off valves. Looks very similar to my 2002 ZR500 fuel pump that I had to take apart because that sled wouldn't start after it sat during the summer. I couldn't get fuel through the pump. Took it apart and the same mesh sreen or diaphragm with the spring behind it was in that pump as well. It was also stuck. Freed that one and 2 pulls later the sled was running. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,679 Posts
THESE SMART VALVES THAT YOU ARE TALKIN ABOUT IS NEW TO ME, WHAT R THEN AND WHERE R THEY. THANKS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,004 Posts
Why on God's green earth do they call it a smart valve? Its sounds more llike a smartass valve (or a dumbass valve) if you ask me. that cat engineer is laughing all the way to the bank when he cashes is paycheck every friday @ 4:56 central time @ the First National in Thief River Falls. :D :lol:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Who's the dumbass, me or the valve? I can't figure out this stupid piece of plastic. Mine may end up as a "No Valve" when I cut it off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,004 Posts
Rob posted
just heard that this procedure will get it running again. You need to locate and reverse the fuel pump leads. There is a connector just to the right of the steering right under the cowl. It is a polarized connector so you will need some sort of jumper wires to do this.

By reversing the leads to the pump you are causing it to spin
backwards and you are pushing fuel into the valves instead of into the
rail.

1. Reverse leads
2. Pull the engine over about 4 to 5 times.
3. switch leads back to normal
4. Pull the engine over and start engine.

The engine should start the first or second pull on step 4. as long as you
have sufficient fuel in the tank. If you look into the tank the valves have
to be covered with fuel or this won't work.[/b]

I think that might work
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I fixed mine much easier. I pelled the valve out of the tank and very carefully pulled the inner ring out until I heard the valve release. Started 3rd pull. Take that, dumb ass valve! B)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Originally posted by looneytune@Dec 18 2002, 09:50 PM
I fixed mine much easier. I pelled the valve out of the tank and very carefully pulled the inner ring out until I heard the valve release. Started 3rd pull. Take that, dumb ass valve! B)
Great! That worked? How hard was it to do? Tools needed, or could you pull it out by hand? That's good to know it can be fixed that easily :)
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top