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If you are experiencing the F7 push and have your suspension and ride as you like it try this simple fix. Just measure 1 1/2" up (Tighter) from the hole in your limit straps and make a new hole. As the standards have only one and try it. It made mine a new sled, point and shoot handling. I have 7.5" of carbide and the "Darting " is no worse than before I did this. Which is only on realy hard groomed trails.(Proper toe out)If you don't like it you are out nothing but a half hour of time.
 

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Are you saying to measure 1 1/2" down (tighter) from the current hole? This seems like a lot. Most people are saying that the hole under the woody's plate works good. That is only like 1/2". Anyone.....?
 

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CatMan9, you are correct. My Std. F7 had a hole, but it is underneath the backer. If a strap does not have it, 1.5" seems a bit too much if you did have to drill.
 

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their are 3 holes under washer can not see them unless you take off the washer ! at least mine had 3 i put it in the middle hole.
 

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There is also another hole drilled in the skid one inch farther to the back from the stock mount hole for the limiter stap. Between the 3 holes in the limiter strap and the two holes to mount to, there is 2 1/2 inches to play with.

Dan E.



and

 

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This is for a Standard Sup. and it makes a world of difference. I know you have a sno-pro and there are difference handling characteristic between the two.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There is only 1 HOLE on a STANDARD not 3. That is why I had to drill one. Unless I got the ONLY standard F7 with 1 hole in the limiter strap. 1 1/2" worked perfect for me, And I did so on the advise of Nesco Arctic Cat, they are as good of a dealer as you will find.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
And if it sacrafices suspension travel it must be Very minimal as I could not tell any difference.
 

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OK, this is kind of hard to explain..

If you pull the limiter strap up to the 3rd hole you lose rear arm travel, and here is why.

Idealy, when you lift the rear of your sled, the front and rear of the track should contact level ground at the same time, (as in the graphic below picture a. the thin black line represents level ground.

If you shorten the limiter strap too much, you pull up the front of the track, so that the REAR of the track contacts the ground first, as in picture b.

Of course, a sled can't sit like that, so what happens? the rear arm sags from the sleds weight and you start off with the rear arm partially compressed even before you sit on it, as in picture c.

Try this yourself, on a garage floor. Have someone pick up the rear of your sled and see if the whole track touches at the same time, or if the rear touches first.
 

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Originally posted by pipeman@Jan 27 2003, 03:00 PM
There is only 1 HOLE on a STANDARD not 3. That is why I had to drill one. Unless I got the ONLY standard F7 with 1 hole in the limiter strap. 1 1/2" worked perfect for me, And I did so on the advise of Nesco Arctic Cat, they are as good of a dealer as you will find.
I have a Standard and it has three holes. It is a spring order, is ours?
 

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Originally posted by rob@Jan 27 2003, 04:10 PM
OK, this is kind of hard to explain..

If you pull the limiter strap up to the 3rd hole you lose rear arm travel, and here is why.

Idealy, when you lift the rear of your sled, the front and rear of the track should contact level ground at the same time, (as in the graphic below picture a. the thin black line represents level ground.

If you shorten the limiter strap too much, you pull up the front of the track, so that the REAR of the track contacts the ground first, as in picture b.

Of course, a sled can't sit like that, so what happens? the rear arm sags from the sleds weight and you start off with the rear arm partially compressed even before you sit on it, as in picture c.

Try this yourself, on a garage floor. Have someone pick up the rear of your sled and see if the whole track touches at the same time, or if the rear touches first.
Rob,

I know what you are saying here BUT the starting points are different.

In your pictures the third hole on my sled it your picture a.

In the first hole there is slack in the limiter strap. It does nothing because the suspension extends all the way before the strap is tightened up. The skis never touch the ground at speed

In the second hole, you barely add tension to the strap and the suspension is compressed 1/4 inch. Still most of the time the skis are off the ground and you have to brake real hard in the corners to turn it. Don't even try to corner under power - because you will go straight.

The third hole compress the front of the suspension another 1/2 inch (3/4 total) and finally added the proper pressure to the front of the sled where is would handle the corners the way it should.

I also measured the rear bumper to humor you and there was a very small difference between the first hole and the third hole.

;)

Dan...
 
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