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Hi Folks, Yes the Firecat has had a few problems. I have been watching a reading the stuff on this site so I can ride troublefree. So far so good. Just checked my oil usage after the update 57:1. I will likely go back one turn on the adjusting rod. Even at this pump setting the sled is still very fast.
From reading a lot of the posts the common theme for the blown engines is that it happens within the first 15 minutes of the ride. Guys anyway you look at it that is a cold sieze. Oil or no oil if the piston get too hot too quick it will expand faster than the cylnder. It will use up the clearance and bingo total siezure or scuffed pistons. The cure A long warmup and baby the engine untill all of the coolant is up to temperature. With the revearse cooling design you great great power gains but when that coolant is cold it hits that head and cylnder and keeps that cylnder from warming up. Cat did us a favour by putting the ethanol switch on. ( if you can get regular fuel) . Start you ride in ethanol mode and then swithch once the engine is good and warm. More fuel means that the piston will warm slower as the cold fuel and richer mixter cools the top of the piston. Listen too you sled. Just about always you can hear a lean condition. When it crackles and pops and goes like snot its probably lean. If you hear that back off. Maybe you needs some deicer or maybe you just got some bad fuel. If so put it in ethanol mode and save that engine. Cat can and will detune these engines. Do we really want that?
 

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420 miles on sled now. Checked pistons after first ride, 210 miles, perfect. Checked them today after 260 HARD miles with temps below zero or at 0, Wouldn't know the difference. I will not be checking them again.

I warm the motor for at least 10 minuits and do not rip the throttle for at least a few miles. I noticed that the pipe needs to be hot before the sled runs good. I don't force the sled to go, and have learned it's unique habits.

I would agree with the cold siezure issue, and also throw in that Cat has built some of these motors too tight.

EFI calibrations could also be a factor. I do not believe the oiler is the root of the burndowns.
 

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15-20 mins warm up time is a small sacrafice for hours of trouble free miles.

Mine doesn't get moved untill the right exchanger is warm.
 

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WELL , I DONT BUY IT!
EXPLAIN ONE CYLINDER PERFECT AND ONE BURN DOWN TWICE, ON THE SAME SLED SAME CYLINDER,, OR ANOTHER SLED ,,,WHICH IS MINE, MELT THE PTO SIDE BAD AND SCUFF THE OTHER SIDE LIKE A LEAN CONDITION!
 

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stop typing in CAPS all the time stevejr (considered yelling)
If you are consistantly having the same problem with the same sled/same cylinder, then going from other post, only 2 possible things. A blockage/kink in the cooling system or driver related. Dealers are supoosed to be checking. If you think it is something else then have your dealer send in the ECU, amazing what information this holds.
 

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These sleds are like the 87 Yamaha Exciters. They are tight and need to be warmed up. The 87 were also the fastest ones that Yamaha built. These are cold seizures. The Exciters did it too. Just warm them up..........
 

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Bob b
Do you flip the swicth when riding. I read that you have to filp the switch and then restart the engine to change fuel mixture 3%. Anyone know? Toolboy
 

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Originally posted by toolboy@Feb 24 2003, 10:00 PM
Bob b
Do you flip the swicth when riding. I read that you have to filp the switch and then restart the engine to change fuel mixture 3%. Anyone know? Toolboy
I could be wrong but I believe if you let the revs drop below 4000 it will switch over. This has been backed up by my seat of the pants feel, if you flip the switch then coast for a while to get the revs down it's like you can feel/hear the motor change a little(the sound, feel of the power) Or maybe I just like the smell of exhaust too much :p
 
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