[f7arcticcal]

Just as I thought all was well with 931 miles, I discovered my mag side piston is wearing badly and my brother's mag side cylinder is shot. A friend at work lost his mag side piston and cylinder this weekend. All were well warmed-up and had been burped. Also, torx head bolts in bulkhead near airbox are loose, one missing, wiring harness wearing badly, and rear arm bolt thru skid is ovalled and it was checked for tightness. One month wait for cylinders!!! Let's consider ourselves unpaid field testers for AC while they spend time and $$$ on F6 and semis for their race teams. I am a Cat Man and don't intend on changing that, but my pride is hurt.

 

[culprit]

Mine is in for the same thing. 675miles, hope the cyl is OK. Where did you hear a month for a cyl?

 

[BrassMonkey]

Same thing to ours. Been told by our dealer that Cat discovered that there is a lean spot at 3/8 throttle. So for those of you who took it easy to break it in, as we did, did more bad than good. Cat is out of pistons ($135 piston, rings, and circlips) and clyinders ($850!!) until the end of Feb. Good thing for warrantee. So far, over 163 motors have burnt down. Just some info for everyone.

 

[highlander]

Did you notice any power loss,had mine in for up dates i asked about the scuffed piston problem and he said if you had a scuffed piston that you would notice it in lack off power,i don't know about that....... <_<

 

[rob]

I hesitate to say anything here, but I feel numbers and info is being tossed around without basis in fact...

There is no problem with the fuel mapping at normal operating temps. There may be a revision for the map when in overheating modes (with the warning light on). This goes back to what I mentioned some time ago about taking the warning light seriously.. Continuing to ride with the light flashing is where people are getting into trouble. I have 2288 miles on my F7 with no problems at all, and I spend LONG periods of time at steady part throttle.

 

[culprit]

I believe mine was a cold seizure. It shouldn't have been becuase it was idling for at least 10 mins. It seized about 3 miles down the trail. I was running about 50 when it seized. I think the combination of lean mid-range, and all the coolant in the system not being completely warm along with the tight cyl tolerances didn't leave enough room when the thermostat opened. I think everyone should be extremely careful for at least 20 mins after cold start in the morning. I think I will also start running on ethanol mode for the first 10 miles after every cold start.

 

[SabercattF7]

what will changing the mode do?

 

[f7arcticcal]

with a few miles of bad trail out of town, our check engine lights would flash for a while. when we hit good snow they would stop flashing. my brother's died several miles into good snow, then ran on one cylider briefly, then ran perfect for 850 or more miles before we looked into exhaust with a flashlight at home. we wonder why the mag side cylider seems to be the problem? no loss of power was noticed at any time.

 

[rob]

Originally posted by f7arcticcal@Jan 15 2003, 12:32 PM
with a few miles of bad trail out of town, our check engine lights would flash for a while. when we hit good snow they would stop flashing. my brother's died several miles into good snow, then ran on one cylider briefly, then ran perfect for 850 or more miles before we looked into exhaust with a flashlight at home. we wonder why the mag side cylider seems to be the problem? no loss of power was noticed at any time.

just the fact that you acknowledge the lights were on and then it died soon after makes me know that the damage was done while the engine was overheating. I'm serious guys.. you see the light flash, you stop and let it cool. Don't wait for a "loss of power".

 

[Team Arctic169]

Does anyone know what the F7 should run for compression. I looked in my Y pipe with a flash light and the pistons had black marks down the sides. Looks like blow by to me and it might have happened during breakin. It runs great and I have about 600 miles. If anyone has an idea I would appriciate any info

 

[joejoe]

I run mine in ethanol when I trail ride all the time. I have 1300 miles, 1000 of them trail riding. I can't feal a difference in power betwen the two modes.

I just got back from a trip and it was -35 C. It pulled over in the morning like a T-Cat, thought I would break the cord but no problems. Warmed it up for 15-20 min then took it easy for 2-3 miles then hammer down.

I agree if a warning light comes on let it cool down.

 

[schifty]

would you stop if it was just flashing? i was riding last night 2 degrees out. trail leading out of town is a single track and my light starts to flash grap some powder and it stops. my sled seems to run very hot anytime im in low snow or very hard pack i get the flashing light. last night the oil light was flashing and the temp light im going to crash with my eyes always looking at the dash. the snopro track at 15-20mph throws up very little snow thank god for the warrenty. next time out im duck taping over the warning lights at least ill enjoy my ride until it blows.

 

[rob]

in low snow, grab the powder before the light comes on.. If you run 6000-7000rpm with the light flashing even for a few moments you risk scoring a piston.. No shit!

 

[f7arcticcal]

to make it more clear, when his sled died was a few hours and two trail stops after the check engine light came on coming out of town. check oil light seems overzealous, anyone else think so? one tank of gas and it starts to flash.

 

[mark white]

are there any dealers reading this. 160 some odd burn downs ?
no cylinders till the end of feb?
is this stuff true ?

 

[schifty]

i agree the oil light starts to come on when your down one quart. as for the hight temp flashing light i must have 25 miles of riding with that light flashing. never has it gone to the solid light. it says in the book the engine will add more oil to aviod engine damage? it only comes on at slow speeds never 6-7krpm but who knows last night i could see the light most of the time its day riding and im watching traffic not my lights. so who knows it could be flashing more then i think. 925 miles one smart valve problem and thats it.

 

[Team Arctic169]

I can only make it about 52 miles before my oil light starts to flash when I hit bumps. Seems that it might be using a bunch of oil but I'm not sure.

 

[rev them up]

I now have 1100 miles on my f7...no proplem's except
my high temp light stick's on cause of moisture somplace.
Guy's listen to ROB about the high temp light..if u see
it falshing cause off poor snow SHUT IT DOWN...don't
keep driving it thinking it will go away...i have not seen it
come on cause off over heating but if i do i will
take rob's advice and shut it down and let it cool...by the
sound of thing's it is the owner's fault for most of the
blow up's...not warming it up...running it with temp light on..
no de-icer....alot of these burn down's can be avoided if
people start warming them up..use de-icer..shut down when light comes on
As far as the oil light i have gone 145 miles on a tank and have not
seen the oil light come on.

 

[arcticf7]

Originally posted by rob@Jan 15 2003, 01:57 PM
in low snow, grab the powder before the light comes on.. If you run 6000-7000rpm with the light flashing even for a few moments you risk scoring a piston.. No shit!

:angry: I had the problem with the light flashing as well. When I found powder, I pulled over, packed the heat exchangers with snow, and let it cool for a few minutes. I have to admit though...the $$$ I spent on that sled, this shit shouldn't be happening. I do enjoy it though. My hubby and my brother in law each have ZR 800's, and I kicked their asses. Granted, it wasn't in the trails, it was on Lake Gogebic...but, I think I got my point across!

Happy Trails

 

[culprit]

I have never had my check engine light on yet! Anytime!