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My high temp light came on just once and flashed while up in the UP, It happened after 5 miles of bad bumpy trail with low snow, had to go slow due to traffic, got back into town and I was slidding the ass end around by hand where I park it and I saw the light start to flash on the dash. Holy sh...t, I shut the darn thing off right away. The next day I went out and rode 280 miles trouble free, light never came on again...
 

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Originally posted by Mainecat@Jan 23 2003, 09:08 AM
Rob after reading gls post do you think that the dealer that had 17 of 17 burndowns have a cooling system restriction somewhere in the chassis? If those 17 had serial numbers in sequence maybe there is a chassis problem?
anything is possible i guess, but a given dealer wouldn't have consecutive serial number sleds, as there would have been a mix of spring orders, different colors and suspension packages.
 

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Would drilling the thermostat help? Anyone try this? How much are the water temp gauges? What is the operating temp?

Anyone.
 

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FWIW, according to my pyro's, the 6000rpm range at constant throttle is by FAR the hottest. 1250/1275 ish. If it were a carb ( :( ) i would drop the clips.
WFO, it drops to the high 11's range.
The motor has very little wash and temps the run in the high 11's, i would say it mapped very well.

Pat
 

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I HAVE ALMOST 1000 MILES ON MY F7.no engine problems.rode sunday night check engine light flashed. stopped let it idle light went off gave it a little gas light started blinking.so i ran it into some fresh snow ,light went out. rode the rest of the night with out the light coming on. the snow was hard packed so that could of been the problem also 5 degrees out :mellow:
 

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It's not the smart valve, mine was changed just before I took it out and blew it up. It' evidently a mid range thing as I was going across the lake at half throttle when it went.
 

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To all of you that do not believe the F-7 does not have a coolant system problem; The problem lies on a resriction in the FRONT heat exchanger. Not a lean midrange. I have spent hours testing different probe locations and monitoring exhaust temps and spending hours on the phone with some of the biggest aftermarket modifiers, (witch will remain nameless) . Not all sleds are having problems and they burn down in the midrange because of low coolant flow after a long full throttle pull. The pump at low rpms can'not flow enough water through the front exchanger for whatever reason after the engine has been subjected to a heat producing hard run, The water sits in the cylinders and eventually heats up, and causes to much expansion of the piston causing siezure. The second time mine burnt down I had 126 degrees water temp BEFORE the cyl. head and 850 degrees exshaust temp. The f-7 does not have a lean condition under "normal" operating Temps. It might be lean at midrange with a hot cylinder and head. Reprograming the ECU is only a band aid for the real problem! Bad FRONT heat exchangers. I cannot keep from burning mine down and I have all the resources and know how in the world. I also have about 10 people wanting to purchase an f-7 from my Cat dealer and Cat can't give any of the dealers a straight answer! Winter is now at least half over and no call back from Cat?
 

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I heard from the same aftermarket manufacturer the front heat exchanger may be partialy welded shut this was caused by the vendor that produced them for cat. however after mine burnt down for the third time AND MAY TEMP LIGHT NEVER CAME ON. and was completely warmed up .I did remove my hoses to the front exchanger. it did seem to flow ok with gravity flow from top down. mine and one other that went down were trucked back to the factory the end of last week. the last f-7 sno pro the dealer had cat said i had to take . a replacement not $ back . after it was preped , and test driven I test drove about 5-7 miles pulled the pipe and SURPRISE scuffing on the cyls. they say the mirrioring is normal , and small scratches in the piston are normal,BUT COME ON 12 MILES TOTAL AND THE NICASIL IS SCRATCHED UP -DOWN AND THEY SAY THIS IS NORMAL. the cly from the cheapest lawn mower from wal-mart wouldn't look this bad after the same use . my test drive wasn't balls out just in and about the mid range were the other went down. DON'T BS ME I'M MASTER ASE CERTIFIED , AND WAS A CATMASTER TECH .
 
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this is fraki the racer hey i got my sled from where you did, sorry about your luck ive heard alot about your sleds!!
 

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My dealer sold 30 F7's. Not one has had a problem, and we have plenty of snow to play in here in the Northeast.

My check engine light has come on one time flashing. We were riding back through town on only lightly snow covered streets, looking for a restaurant. As soon as it came on, I shut the sled off. Waited about 5 min, and then started it back up. Light was still blinking. Crossed the street and found some snow, light went right out and stayed out. There were three F7's in our group. The lights came on at about the same time and went off at the same time.

I hope Cat helps all of you guys that are having these problems.

440 miles so far....its all good.
 

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Originally posted by rob+Jan 18 2003, 06:38 PM-->
<!--QuoteBegin-joejoe
@Jan 18 2003, 05:49 PM
How confidence do you have in your sled, me none!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
At 2550 miles, I have almost total confidence in my sled. B)

I think it was very likely that your F7 was hot (light flashing) when it went down at midrange. I have a very steady thumb, and many miles at constant midrange throttle in Quebec. If there was a general problem mine would have burnt down weeks ago... -_-[/b]
When you're riding in mid-range rob, has your light come on at all? Mine has. I have to take it in for a few more updates this week--maybe they will solve the prob then, hey?
 

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Originally posted by arcticf7@Jan 28 2003, 09:46 AM
When you're riding in mid-range rob, has your light come on at all? Mine has. I have to take it in for a few more updates this week--maybe they will solve the prob then, hey?
in 3100 miles my light has come on just once.. and that was while looking for a motel in Baie Comeau and we were screwing around on bare pavement going slow. Never came on during trail riding. Slow riding makes it more likely to come on.
 

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Originally posted by rob@Jan 22 2003, 10:29 AM
I think the key phrase there is:
"The seizure problem has occurred on some sleds if the coolant temp is high due to poor field cooling conditions"

Just what I've been saying all along... You see the light come on, you stop now or else.. :(
Ok, how do you explain Mine Burning Down ??? I have gotten NO WARNING LIGHTS - EVER. rob, Yo know my WHOLE STORY, and with the extended warm-up time I gave it, and running 15 mph for the first 2 miles to the trail. Then I get another 5 miles down the trail (brand SPANKIN NEW SLED - WATCHING ALL DASH FOR LIGHTS) and nothing happened - until it stopped RUNNING. I have heard that my dealer is STILL BLAMING ME for their INCOMPETANCE. If that was the case, my turn-out would have been significantly DIFFERENT.

I was riding in 9 - 12" of snow. What do they require 5 feet? Not gonna happen (Likely not to happen) I think there is another issue at hand here. It is not rider neglegence most of the time. Maybe in the 265 sleds that have burnt down, if 5 were do to rider error, I would BE SUPRISED. Its not all Smoke & Mirrors Here Folks
 

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Oh, and by the way, I got 7 miles on the origional.

Now that my sled has been FIXED UP and Bob K at CAT worked with my dealer (service mgr) I've got to say that my sled is "Pretty Reliable" I experieced some FREEZING at -20Fah 2 weeks ago, but as soon as we pulled it into a heated garage, it warmed up in about 45 minutes and ran FINE ALL DAY LONG. I have run my sled against BOSSHO's F7, and it seems VERY SLIGHTLY Faster. VERY SLIGHTLY. My buddy has a MXz800 and I can pull on him SLIGHTLY, and BOSS runs DEAD EVEN WITH HIM.


Now the sled has 750 miles on it. I'm in LOVE WITH IT. Now its gotta last the season, and next year, and I will think it's reliable, until then I still got a lump in my throat about it. Not exactly a believer.
 

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Originally posted by BlackSaber7+Jan 28 2003, 02:31 PM-->
<!--QuoteBegin-rob
@Jan 22 2003, 10:29 AM
I think the key phrase there is:
"The seizure problem has occurred on some sleds if the coolant temp is high due to poor field cooling conditions"

Just what I've been saying all along... You see the light come on, you stop now or else.. :(
Ok, how do you explain Mine Burning Down ??? I have gotten NO WARNING LIGHTS - EVER. rob, Yo know my WHOLE STORY, and with the extended warm-up time I gave it, and running 15 mph for the first 2 miles to the trail. Then I get another 5 miles down the trail (brand SPANKIN NEW SLED - WATCHING ALL DASH FOR LIGHTS) and nothing happened - until it stopped RUNNING. I have heard that my dealer is STILL BLAMING ME for their INCOMPETANCE. If that was the case, my turn-out would have been significantly DIFFERENT.

I was riding in 9 - 12" of snow. What do they require 5 feet? Not gonna happen (Likely not to happen) I think there is another issue at hand here. It is not rider neglegence most of the time. Maybe in the 265 sleds that have burnt down, if 5 were do to rider error, I would BE SUPRISED. Its not all Smoke & Mirrors Here Folks[/b]
yours was not an overheating problem.. yours wasn't bled properly by the dealer and an air bubble went from the rear cooler to the head (even if your dealer doesn't want to admit it). Those failures never gave the hot light a chance to come on.
 

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My F7 had a light flash while riding on hardpacked, very little powder trails; at slow speeds. (Rough Trails = slow speeds) I pulled off found powder and kicked it on to the running boards. Wasn't long light went away. Another F-Cat I was with had his come on way more often than mine.
 

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I have 800miles on my F7 and have had a coolant gauge installed since the start. My observations are that in good snow it operates at 105 to 110 degrees F. In low snow, hardpack or running roads it operates around 145 degees F. Not considered hot until 175F. I also have temp sensor properly installed at bottom of motor so that it reads the coolant imediately after it passes through the engine.
 

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Sorry Rob but you are wrong about Blaksabercats problem. Yes it could be a cooling issue if the front heat exchanger is restricted! Blacksabercat drop me an email and I will help you out on testing the exchangers. There is a way to test them and I am not able to give that info but, Blacksabercat if your dealer is not helping you I will help you out, I also work for a dealer. I feel your pain. I would bet money your machine is one with a resriction! Mine was and I will be ending up with a different sled.

[email protected]
 

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Originally posted by 785cat@Jan 28 2003, 09:16 PM
Sorry Rob but you are wrong about Blaksabercats problem. Yes it could be a cooling issue if the front heat exchanger is restricted! Blacksabercat drop me an email and I will help you out on testing the exchangers. There is a way to test them and I am not able to give that info but, Blacksabercat if your dealer is not helping you I will help you out, I also work for a dealer. I feel your pain. I would bet money your machine is one with a resriction! Mine was and I will be ending up with a different sled.

[email protected]
785cat, I was involved in getting blacksabres F7 fixed and talked to Cat directly about his problem, diagnosis, and repair, so don't go telling me I'm wrong OK?

Yes, there may be problems with restricted heat exchangers but ALL engine failures under 10 miles were due to bleeding problems.
 
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