[neverenuff]

I HAVE 40 MILES ON MY F7 NOW, I FELT IT WAS A LITTLE TIPPY COMPARED TO MY 95 ZR 700, ONLY BECAUSE THAT WAS WHAT I WAS USED TO,

QUESTION IS; YOU CAN MAKE IT SOFT AND LESS TOP HEAVY FEELING OR YOU CAN STIFFEN HER UP ANF HAVE ALOT MORE TRAVEL FOR THE JUMPS, WHAT HAVE YOU GUYS FOUND IS THE BEST SETUP?
THERE IS NO MARKS ON THE FRONT OR CENTER SHOCK SO I HAVE JUST MEASURED THE EXPOSED THREADS, I WEIGH 190 LBS AND SO FAR I HAVE 2.75" OF THREAD FROM THE TOP OF THE SHOCK TO THE TOP OF THE SPRING ADJ.ON THE FRONT, THEN THE CENTER SHOCK I LOOSENED UP THEN TURNED IT BACK TILL THERE WAS SOME RESISTANCE THEN GAVE HER 1 TO 2 MORE TURNS.
NOW I FEEL MAYBE NOT ENOUGH SKI PRESURE? ANY COMMENTS?

OTHER THAN THAT THE MACHINE IS AWSOME!!!!! I STILL HAVE NOT PINNED IT AND RACED MY BUD HE WAS ON MY OLD ZR700, GAVE HIM 12 OR SO SLED LENGTHS IN THE BEAN FEILD, FROM A STOP I , STILL NO PINNING HER, PASSED HIM IN 1500 FEET , HE COULD NOT BELEIVE HOW FAST I COUGHT HIM, CAN'T WAIT TO GET THIS PREMIX OUT AND SOME CLEAN GAS IN HER.

 

[rob]

I have 1675 miles on my F7 snopro and I've done a lot of suspension tinkering. Best all-round setup I've come up with is front IFS springs zero preload with front of sled elevated.. Do the same with the front arm shock. If yours is a snopro, pull up the limiter strap to the middle hole position (this makes a big difference). Set the coupler blocks on #1 (or remove them entirely) for the best ride. Set the spring blocks (rear torsion springs) to your weight and conditions. And for the best steering performance, get a pair of SLP Powder Pro skis.

 

[team arctic]

Originally posted by rob@Jan 7 2003, 09:51 AM
I have 1675 miles on my F7 snopro and I've done a lot of suspension tinkering. Best all-round setup I've come up with is front IFS springs zero preload with front of sled elevated.. Do the same with the front arm shock. If yours is a snopro, pull up the limiter strap to the middle hole position (this makes a big difference). Set the coupler blocks on #1 (or remove them entirely) for the best ride. Set the spring blocks (rear torsion springs) to your weight and conditions. And for the best steering performance, get a pair of SLP Powder Pro skis.

Rob, have you tried that exact same combo with the limiter strap in the loose hole? I'm curious how big a differnce the strap made? Marc

 

[czy42strokes]

I used to mess with my limiter strap on my Zl all the time and it does make a difference. I know we went over this issue in the infant stages of this forum. I was reading my manual again last night and I found it interesting that it states in the manual that the limiter strap is not adjustable and serious handling issues may occur.. Wonder what Cat is afraid of.?

 

[rob]

Originally posted by czy42strokes@Jan 7 2003, 09:59 AM
I used to mess with my limiter strap on my Zl all the time and it does make a difference. I know we went over this issue in the infant stages of this forum. I was reading my manual again last night and I found it interesting that it states in the manual that the limiter strap is not adjustable and serious handling issues may occur.. Wonder what Cat is afraid of.?

I saw that too.. Have no idea why but some have said that some standards came with limiter straps with no additional holes. I've tried all 3 holes on my SP and the middle hole seems clearly to be the best. unless you are looking for those 2 foot wheelies

Marc, yes I tried putting the limiters back to the loose position yesterday.. Worked fine until you hit the throttle, then its wheelie time again! Fun, but it corners better with the strap in the middle hole.

 

[dave cat 7]

YEA BUT RIDING WHEELIES LOOKS COOL!!!

 

[SNODOGG]

Rob, being a really fast BIG bump, on/off trail and driveway jumper..... :wacko: How would you think the strap position would effect that type of riding style, your's seems to be more about the trail "flatness" or driveablity of it. Most of the trails I seem to find are WHOOPED out and I would hate to get all into setting my SP5 limiter in that position and find in was better in the really rough with it in the stock hole. I would be very interested in "FLATTER" cornering, but when it gets late in the day......? :wacko: SNODOGG

 

[rob]

Originally posted by SNODOGG@Jan 7 2003, 12:55 PM
Rob, being a really fast BIG bump, on/off trail and driveway jumper..... :wacko: How would you think the strap position would effect that type of riding style, your's seems to be more about the trail "flatness" or driveablity of it. Most of the trails I seem to find are WHOOPED out and I would hate to get all into setting my SP5 limiter in that position and find in was better in the really rough with it in the stock hole. I would be very interested in "FLATTER" cornering, but when it gets late in the day......? :wacko: SNODOGG

Well I'm starting to go back and forth on the limiter strap deal, but it certainly handles flatter with the straps in the middle hole.

But I just went down to Marty's with the F7 and I'm convinced of something.. Take those coupler blocks out of your sled and throw them away!! :lol: I have LESS ski lift and the sled corners flatter without those lousy coupling blocks! I know, it sounds crazy, but try it! B) Man, is this sled fun!!

 

[dave cat 7]

ROB,
YOU BEEN SNIFFING GAS AGAIN? J/K

 

[rob]

kind of :blink: :wacko: :blink: :wacko:

this sled is like a happy drug :wub: B)

 

[jay]

Originally posted by rob@Jan 7 2003, 01:42 PM
this sled is like a happy drug :wub: B)

You got that right!! I just wish I had as many "happy" miles as you.

 

[F7TimmyF7]

Whats the best way to change the holes in the straps...? Other cats I had were adjustable. Do you compress the suspension a certain way to get the skid to come down so you can change holes? Thanks.

 

[rob]

Originally posted by F7TimmyF7@Jan 7 2003, 04:40 PM
Whats the best way to change the holes in the straps...? Other cats I had were adjustable. Do you compress the suspension a certain way to get the skid to come down so you can change holes? Thanks.

easiest way is to put a board under the front of the track.
That will take the tension off the limiter straps.

 

[czy42strokes]

It was over 50 degrees here today so I decided to change my limiter straps. I put two pieces of 2x4 under the track and let it back down and it worked well, The bolt just barely passes through the nylock nut on the strap so put some loctite on the nut and threads, installed the rope recoil guide from dan, had to go out and buy a 20 torx head socket as the one is too close to the oil tank,Never can have enough tools. Adjusted the front IFS shocks, and topped off the oil on both sleds, put aluminum spring adjuster blocks on the ZL, that was fun..

 

[Roy T]

Originally posted by czy42strokes@Jan 7 2003, 05:23 PM
The bolt just barely passes through the nylock nut on the strap so put some loctite on the nut and threads

I noticed this too. On my std F7 the front limiter bolts JUST barely thread into the nylon part of the nylock nut. Seems like in Cat's quest to keep this sled light, they ended up with a few of their bolts just a skad too short, hence possibly sacrificing some long (and short) term reliability issues. Keep an eye on these nuts & bolts. I might consider putting in the next size longer bolt just for the peace of mind! -- Roy

 

[mrfreeze]

What do you think about coupling blocks on standard f7.Im 165 pounds should i remove them or noy.

 

[rob]

Originally posted by mrfreeze@Jan 22 2003, 06:04 PM
What do you think about coupling blocks on standard f7.Im 165 pounds should i remove them or noy.

removing them might make it too soft, but its easy to put them back in if it does.

 

[got snow]

My F7 standard has adjustable limiter straps. This needs to be stressed. REMOVE THE UPPER STRAP MOUNTING BOLTS AND ONLY THEN WILL YOU SEE THE STRAP ADJUSTMENT HOLES.

 

[mrfreeze]

So the standard does have adjustment holes on the limiter straps?

 

[Roy T]

YES they do... UNDER the top Woody's washers as "got snow" posted. -- Roy