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the cable has no adjustment, no relearn required when changing out for a new one. Only when cable gets stretched will you need to do this. We have not had to re learn one yet, like plowboy said you can clean them without relearning. Believe me having a cable on hand has made some happy people on the trail, went from frowning to smiling again in a 20 minute fix.
If this seems to be the issue. Have you ever thought of beefing up this spot with a drop of solder or possibly JB Weld to give it a little added strength? Don't know if it's possible but I always like to try something to improve longevity.
 

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yup add this to the list. relays, converters, idler wheel bearings, idler wheels, capacitors, dielectric grease, and now ex. valve cables? and a fire extinguisher, opps that's just atv's. going to need a snow coach to carry all the extra parts needed on a trip? reminds me of 1972 all over again.
 

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Pulled the valves yesterday to clean and replace the actuator cable. While it had not completely failed, has a spot where you can clearly feel it binding. Assume this to be either starting to fray and or worn through the inner liner. First time the valves have been out, needed nothing more than a light clean up and pop em back in. Thankfully, cable is not too expensive and valve service is very straight forward.
While it's annoying it was about to fail, coming off Cats where they use dual cables that cost approx double each, not such a bad set up.
 

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Pulled the valves yesterday to clean and replace the actuator cable. While it had not completely failed, has a spot where you can clearly feel it binding. Assume this to be either starting to fray and or worn through the inner liner. First time the valves have been out, needed nothing more than a light clean up and pop em back in. Thankfully, cable is not too expensive and valve service is very straight forward.
While it's annoying it was about to fail, coming off Cats where they use dual cables that cost approx double each, not such a bad set up.
What year is your sled and how many miles are on it?
 

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I'm not sure exactly what setup you have on your cables but I know the issue I've seen is with cable friction causing eventual fatigue and the springs just becoming brittle after time. So I'm going to let a little secret out here but don't tell anyone what I use on anything I need to lube on my Cat's. Got this stuff a long time ago from a dealer that was a buddy of mine and I used to sled with. Always sold both Cat & Poo. Unfortunately he passed away way too young. This is a container that's is old because it is used very sparingly but is a fantastic product and I'm not sure if it's still available but there will be something similar I'm sure.
Still have a bottle that my dad had bought in the mid 90's? good stuff:bc2:
 

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I am always one for cleaning power valves. Did it every season on my ‘13 600. Now i have a new ‘18 800 sba. Just managed to put 212 miles on it the past couple of days. I do not have a service manual. Can someone please give me the procedure to do a cleaning on this new style valve system? I want to be able to pull them and clean them but i dont want to have to take it and have it relearned after doing so. Anybody have some screen shots out a service manual they could email or text me? Any info would be great.
I also posted in another thread about fuel sock replacement procedure if anyone had some screen shots out of the manual for that as well. Only 11 hours on the sled so far, will have to wait till next season to get beyond the 18 hour mark.
Thanks guys.
 

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Don't mean to revive a zombie thread but have a question about replacing the cable.

I have 3000 miles on my sled and am doing a ton of maintenance work getting it ready for the season. I planned to replace the cable.

People here are saying you don't have to do a re-learn, since the cable isn't adjustable. My thinking is that statement is based on the assumption that every one of these cables is exactly the same length from the factory (yeah sure).

Has anyone had issues replacing the cable and not doing a re-learn? Also, anyone know of a dealer around Minneapolis that won't charge an arm and a leg to do it, or make me wait 3 weeks with the sled sitting in their yard?
 

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i have not replaced one myself but i would say sit back and take a look at it and measure a distance somewhere that is relative to the piece holding the valves and set it as close to that measurement as possible after reinstalling the cable.
maybe measure the length of cable protruding from the cable on the motor end as well.
gotta be a KISS way of doing it.
my .02
 

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There is no adjustment.... the only adjustment is teaching the motor, which is done with DW.

I'll just install it and see how close it is I guess.
 

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yup add this to the list. relays, converters, idler wheel bearings, idler wheels, capacitors, dielectric grease, and now ex. valve cables? and a fire extinguisher, opps that's just atv's. going to need a snow coach to carry all the extra parts needed on a trip? reminds me of 1972 all over again.
That should all fit in yur cool backpack and leave room for the energy drinks.
 

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Nobody that I'm aware of in my area has had any problems with the VES cables since they came out in 2015.

The biggest advantage of cable operated valves is the ability to operate them anytime the ECU wants to, including a cleaning cycle every time you start the engine. No holes in bellows. No passages drilled into cylinder that plug up with carbon. No messing with springs.:bc:
 

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^^^I agree^^^

Just wish they could use something like linear EGR technology. IE: solenoid operated (no cables)and an internal position sensor. :)

 
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