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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need help to set up the edge skid I just put in my 94 XLT. (I know I'm in the XC Forum). I just put the skid in and I need to figure out some baseline settings. How do I know if I need to adjust the front track spring? How much should the machine drop when I first sit down? (Sag I think). I do have the xtra 12 front IFS from a 97 XLT sp installed. Where should the blocks be for the rear springs? I'm about 220lbs, and I ride mostly trail. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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I'm a little over 220 lbs and this is my setup for an 05 600 50th edge skid...i still use the stock torsion springs and stock front track coil spring. Rear blocks are set to the forward most holes for maximum coupling...think front blocks are in the rear most holes...haven't move them from stock. Rear torsion springs are in the mid preload position on the cams. Front track coil spring preload is tightened up about an inch from being so loose the spring rattles. You can fine tune the rear torsion springs by moving the slide rail rollers forward or backward a hole...had a buddy move mine back to be help the ride height and provide better steering response. I've had various edge sleds with different shocks over the years so its not an exact science to get the perfect setup for every different sled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm running a fresh Fox Clicker. Snow coming tomorrow. I'll get 'er tuned then.
 

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you'll want about two inches of sag on the edge when u sit down. Also get the shocks revalved if ur running pps.[/b]
I think 2'' of sag for the rear skid isn't near enough...between 3''- 4'' works better. Nothing wrong with the stock pps shock valving unless jumping or riding big mogals aggressivly...otherwise it could use a bit more compression valving for us heavier guys.
 

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Which year is the skid?

I prefer to start out with the front track spring on the loose side, then add more pressure if neccessary. How to set the rear blocks also depends on how much ski lift you want, the setup Too Slow suggests, works good if you like to have it keep the skis on the ground on the trails.
Haven't heard of so many putting an edge in an XTRA-12 sled, so you'll probably have to do some fiddling on your own to get the right balance between front end and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It actually was a standard indy susp. 6" of travel originally. It has a Fox clicker and about 3.5-4 inches of sag( I have to tighten the track as well ). Michahicks has given me a ballpark setup to start from as well and see how it goes. I also transplanted an xtra 12 IFS form a 97 XLT special so I have to dial in the front too. I'm learning a lot from this thread and from the pms I have received. Keep the thread going. Suspension is a lbig can of worms. everyone likes to tune for how they ride. I appreciate the posts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, I had the sled out today and I can't get it to hook up. Way to much track spin. I'm studded too. How do I fix this so it will pull the ski's like it used to? I just want it to hook and go. Any Advice?
 

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Ok, I had the sled out today and I can't get it to hook up. Way to much track spin. I'm studded too. How do I fix this so it will pull the ski's like it used to? I just want it to hook and go. Any Advice?[/b]
Drop the rear sissor blocks down to low or to medium, in the back holes. This will
increase your sag also and make the suspension ride softer. The factory rear torsion
springs on the edge rear suspensions were only good for a 170-200 lb rider. If you
ride aggressively you will need to install the .406 torsion springs. You do have the
clicker Fox rear shock, yes?? If so you are all good with shock valveing. If not, the
factory PPS shock valving is garbage to begin with, for aggressive riders, and a
spring change will further show it's weakness. Front skid shock spring should rattle
when shaken back and forth by hand with no wieght on the skid(lifed on the stand).
Limiter straps should be left at the factory settings which should be all the way out,
if I remember correctly.
 

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For good transfer, you need to have room for the links to move back. The more room, the more transfer. You can enhance the transfer by giving the sled something to pivot back on - done by increasing front skid spring tension. Same rules, the more tension, the more transfer. Both adjustments can be taken to crazyness if you like to put on a show, or civilized to your tastes.
 
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