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2021 Pro-S 850 137" 2016 SB 800 Pro-S 136"
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed this on my last trail ride of the year last year. It sounded maybe like the track ratcheting. I only noticed it then (and now) when goosing it on hardpack. I tightened the track on the trail last year on that last ride and didn't notice it the remainder of that ride. I also know that the track was tightened to factory spec. prior to that last ride. And is still adjusted to that spec. I'm noticing it again this season and need input on how to diagnose what might be going on. I don't think its the chaincase since I only notice it when goosing it on hardpack. It doesn't do it on loose snow/powder either. Any thoughts what to look at? I feel it in my feet/rear when it does it.

What does slipping in the chaincase sound/feel like?
 

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i wouldnt think you could slip anything in the chain case without wrecking the chain and gears. Its prolly your track, if it slipped before chances are it probably wrecked the drive lugs and now it dont have as much to grab
 

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2021 Pro-S 850 137" 2016 SB 800 Pro-S 136"
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Your saying the drive lugs on the track - or the drive lugs on the wheels on the shaft?
 

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Have you had your skid out and or apart?? I see lots of posts here and on Arctic Chat about this being the rear shock not being reinstalled right and causing this sound and feeling. I also saw a post about the lower bushing and shaft from the front shock getting wolfed and causing this by coming into contact with the track. I have never experienced either of these, just seen them in other posts. Good Luck! I did have a friend with a chain skipping on a Polaris last year and that was very obvious that is was not track. I think you would be able to tell if it was your chain.
 

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2021 Pro-S 850 137" 2016 SB 800 Pro-S 136"
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't think its the front shock, I put one of those better bushings in it the last time I recharged the shock. I did take out my suspension, but I remember the pivot arm thing, for some reason I didn't even think it would go together any way but the correct way. I have a service manual and believe I used it to make sure I put it back together per the ZR specification. I'll double check - guess that doesn't hurt.
 

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I noticed this on my last trail ride of the year last year. It sounded maybe like the track ratcheting. I only noticed it then (and now) when goosing it on hardpack. I tightened the track on the trail last year on that last ride and didn't notice it the remainder of that ride. I also know that the track was tightened to factory spec. prior to that last ride. And is still adjusted to that spec. I'm noticing it again this season and need input on how to diagnose what might be going on. I don't think its the chaincase since I only notice it when goosing it on hardpack. It doesn't do it on loose snow/powder either. Any thoughts what to look at? I feel it in my feet/rear when it does it.

What does slipping in the chaincase sound/feel like?[/b]

If the chaincase were slipping it would feel like you were changing gears on a 10 speed bike and couldn't get it into gear. There's a chance that you might not feel it in powder but as soon as you hit something solid it would start skipping pretty hard....
 

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2021 Pro-S 850 137" 2016 SB 800 Pro-S 136"
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, I think that rules out the chaincase.
 

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2021 Pro-S 850 137" 2016 SB 800 Pro-S 136"
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wouldn't the drive shaft wiggle around a bit? Its solid as can be. I check the rear shock mounts, they are mounted correct on the pivot and the top mount - so thats not it. I don't have the coupler blocks in - would the track loosen enough to cause the track to rachet when the suspension couples?
 

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i had the same problem with my old cougar. it would ratchet on hardpack and frozen grass unless the track was fairly tight. so tight that it would only do about 80mph. turns out the drive lugs on the track and the driver were worn to create perfect ramps for this to happen. it ended up needing a track and new drivers so i sold the sled. all this happened within 2000 miles. poor design.
 

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You can not wiggle a bad bearing because of the force from track tension. Drive lugs on the track and drive cogs on the wheels can be pretty worn and should still not jump. Couple blocks not an issue.
 

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I know where youre` coming from. I have a 03 ZR 8 that made the same noise you describe last year. I`ve been trying to get it to do it again and it won`t,yet. I`ll keep looking.
 

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2021 Pro-S 850 137" 2016 SB 800 Pro-S 136"
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I knew my drivers were a bit worn, took it to the dealer and he looked at them and figured that was them. Quick test drive and he's sure that is what is causing it. So, new drivers are on order. I'm going to get the internal/external drivers since I have full windows on my track. Should be able to run it looser for a litte more top end.
 

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I bet it is the chain slipping. I had the same issue and I thought it was the track and I kept tightening it up. Turned out it was the chain and I broke the chain which broke the case. What a mess that turned out to be. They chain slipping feels and acts just like what a slipping track feels like. I had a few very experienced riders try it out and they all thought the track was slipping.

Just try tightening up the chain a half a turn to see if that solves the issue before replacing anything. Mark my words. :thumbsup:
 

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I knew my drivers were a bit worn, took it to the dealer and he looked at them and figured that was them. Quick test drive and he's sure that is what is causing it. So, new drivers are on order. I'm going to get the internal/external drivers since I have full windows on my track. Should be able to run it looser for a litte more top end.[/b]
Testing on out timing system has shown a decrease in speed with internal/external drive sprockets, others have found this also.


Don
 

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x2.
and I would never use those on any sort of a trail sled.
Just put on 4 (not 2) regular AC drivers, ditching your outer ones that are just wheels now.
 

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2021 Pro-S 850 137" 2016 SB 800 Pro-S 136"
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It was multiple things. Chain was slipping, time to ditch the 26/40 gearing and I'm going to try the 25/38 gearing combo - hoping with my 170-175HP it will gain from stock gearing. Guess that the slack in the chain overtime stretched and started to slip - didn't take too many miles for this to happen.

Put on the internal/external drivers with anti-stab wheels up in front of the rails - rails need to be cut a little to do this and accept the new drivers. I know little about this feature, but some around here have seemed to get it to work by adding the anti-stab wheels and modifiying the rails. Guess some trail riding and drags on the lake will determine a benefit or not.

My stock drivers were wore pretty bad so it was time to replace. Chaincase was full of water/dirt - and I go through it every season once or twice. No o-ring behind bearing - must have come out somehow and allowed the crap to get in. Thankfully caught it in time. Stock bearing was known to be defective I guess.
 

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It was multiple things. Chain was slipping, time to ditch the 26/40 gearing and I'm going to try the 25/38 gearing combo - hoping with my 170-175HP it will gain from stock gearing. Guess that the slack in the chain overtime stretched and started to slip - didn't take too many miles for this to happen.[/b]

I figured it was the chain slipping. Everyone always assumes the track because it does sound like the track is slipping. At least you caught it before your chain busted like mine.

Dean
 

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2021 Pro-S 850 137" 2016 SB 800 Pro-S 136"
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Here are the No Slip Drive Sprockets that were put in - is this the type that has shown to slow the sled down?

By Wahl Bros:
The greatest anti-ratchet sprocket available. Each sprocket drives off 2 track lugs and the track clip. Extra long center hub length eliminates the possibility of hex shaft slippage. Requires only 2 drive sprockets. For use with track designs that have all windows open.

Also put in the Anti-Stab Wheel Kit:
When using No-Slip Drive Sprockets, these wheel kits are recommended.
Stab wheel kits help prevent track degradation and spearing by eliminating track contact with the tips of the suspension rails. These wheel kits replace the stock limiter strap shaft (didn't on mine, was able to keep the stock limiter strap shaft). Mount the wheel kit to the tips of your rails. Includes four wheels, shaft, spacers and bolts. The wheels are 2 3/4" OD and are a rubber compound. In most instances, rail modification will be needed and often the plastic rail tips will need to be removed (as was in my case).
 
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