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Discussion Starter #1
1st I want to thank everyone for all the priceless information. It has truely made this season an exceptional one. I have an F7 Standard Green with 2500 (TROUBLE FREE!!!!!) miles.

My general question is about maintenance. I think it would be nice if together we could come up with a pre-ride inspection checklist for those of us who have the knowledge and mechnical ability to wrench on our own sleds. It could cover everything from checking specific bolts, cleaning powervalves, checking drive belt, track, clutch etc. Also it would be nice to have a "How To" description on certain items such as the drive clutch...............

Which brings me to my next question. I'd like to think that I can ride the rest of the season without doing any maintenance to my clutch, but I doubt it. Can anyone help me by giving me the AC part# for the puller, and what parts I should be looking to replace.

Thank you all for the great information.

-Mark
 

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i took my clutch off and holy sh*t, that thing comes off hard. I dont know if this was the right thing to do or not but i put a wooden handle in the clutch to hold it while using the tool. I was hoping that i wasnt going to break anything. Did this 2 times and havnt had any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have seen the dealer basically just loosen and remove the nut that holds the clutch to the crankshaft. Then he threads in a puller and uses an impact gun. Does anyone have the AC part# for the puller?
 

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Your not kidding the drive clutch is on tight. Dan from the outdoor shop will set you up with a puller. Make sure you get the better of the two he carries. Below is a pic of the cheaper one...you get what you pay for...anyway Dan replaced it with a better puller at no charge. Clutches are easy to service with the right tools, ie: puller, and clutch press makes dissasembling much easier and safer.
 

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The clutch puller I bought from Dan looks just like the one in the picture. I guess I got the cheap one too.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I looked into servicing the clutch a little further. It appears that you can get a cam arm kit for about $30 that will basically replace the bushing and spacers for the cam arms. Also it looks like all you need is a Drive Clutch Compressor (it looks like a big fork) and you can replace the bushings while the clutch is still on the sled. Has anyone done this? Also how about the rollers on the spider? If these look worn do we have to replace the whole spider or can the rollers be replaced individualy?

I'd like to hear what some of the high mileage guys do for drive clutch maintenance.
 

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dont use an impact on the clutch puller as it will send a lot of vibration down the crank shaft which isnt good. Get a piston stop to lock the motor. I makes clutch removal alot eaiser than trying to hold it with a sitck.
 

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I am sure that some of you know this and some of you don't. When you use a clutch puller, whether you use an impact or not, ALWAYS PUT GREASE ON THE END OF THE PULLER!!!!! This will help it slip easier and the clutch will cum off much easier. I always have just used the old broom handle to hold the clutch. I don't think that is the recommended practice, but the vibrations caused by the impact don't sound too good either.

Cat S.
 

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It is fairly easy to change the cam arm bushings. The drive clutch compression tool allows you to remove the cam arms. Once you have them out, use the pins that hold them in and put a new bushing on the cam arm pin. Drive the old bushing out with the new bushing. Also, the pins can show some wear as well so it may not be a bad idea to replace those.

It has been a long time since I took a spider assembly out of a clutch but I think you can replace just the bushings.
 

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Yes a 97 and up Cat puller will work on the Firecat. Always replace spider buttons as a set as well as cam arm pins. Use locktight on the cam arm pin nuts. Use a dab of grease on the end of the puller and when it gets real tight tap the end with a deadblow or lead hammer and it will pop off. Also use "neversieze" in the crank end so it will come off the next time. The spider requires another tool called a grunt to spin the spider of the clutch half. You need a little heat too. Its also good to have the holding tool for the vise when removing the spider.
 

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Thanks for the answer, Maincat. I have an AC version I used to use on my '97 ZRT. Do they still put the plastic sleeve inside the clutch? It sure made it difficult to get the bolt head out.

catfish
 

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Discussion Starter #17
As preventative maintenance it looks like I am going to replace the cam arm bushings, spacers, and pins (AC part #1639-030 - KIT, CAM ARM REPAIR- W/O ARMS ~ $30) using a clutch compression tool. Replacing the spider buttons seems a little more involved than I want to get. I plan on inspecting the spider buttons and cleaning them up with some brake cleaner assuming they look OK.

I'm interested how often other members are replacing cam bushings or spider buttons on their drive clutch? In particulay the members with high mileage sleds........what are you doing for clutch maintenance?

Thank you!
 

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mbowker

I only have 300 miles on my F7, so I will not being doing much unless i know for sure it is necessary. Next week I plan on heading ot Wyoming for some riding and will need to change weights in the clutch and I will see then if anything needs to be changed. Last year on my ZR, the pins were worn pretty bad so I replaced them as well as the bushings (2500 miles)
 

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Buttons every 5000 or so miles. Cam arm pins last longer than they use to about 4000 or inspect. DO NOT USE ANY LUBE ON YOUR CLUTCH. just blow it out with air!!!!!
 

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Originally posted by mbowker@Feb 19 2003, 05:27 PM
As preventative maintenance it looks like I am going to replace the cam arm bushings, spacers, and pins (AC part #1639-030 - KIT, CAM ARM REPAIR- W/O ARMS ~ $30) using a clutch compression tool. Replacing the spider buttons seems a little more involved than I want to get. I plan on inspecting the spider buttons and cleaning them up with some brake cleaner assuming they look OK.

I'm interested how often other members are replacing cam bushings or spider buttons on their drive clutch? In particulay the members with high mileage sleds........what are you doing for clutch maintenance?

Thank you!
DON'T USE BRAKE CLEANER ON THE BUSHINGS OF YOUR CLUTCH! :blink: :blink: :blink: Solvents will eat the bushings alive. Clean the clutch with compressed air and wipe it down with a dry cloth. As far as I am concerned, if you aren't familiar with maintenance procedures on your Cat the best investment you can make is the Service Manual CD. It sells for 30 or 40 dollars and can save you hundreds in goofs and time. I alway do my maintenance on my sled so I know it is done right but one wastes a lot of time and effort it you don't know proper specs and procedures. I always keep an eye on the pins and bushings. They are easy to check on the sled by checking the weights for side play. If they are kept tight it seems to minimize the wear on the rest of the clutch. With the clutch off and the spring removed it is easy to see if there is excessive play in the buttons, rollers, and sleeves. My experience has been for what it costs to rebush the whole clutch it is better to throw it away and get a new one as I have not had good luck rebushing, even when the "experts" do it. You should be able to get 10000+ miles out of a well maintained clutch.
 
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