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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought an 07 leftover. The dealer reflashed it . I took it riding it fouled 8 plugs in 30 miles. I took it back they told me it was caused by the oil in the tank and all i could buy was NGK plugs. I got it back with Chanpion plugs, it fouled one idling the next morning. I changed it and rode it two days without problem.. I started it one week later and fouled another wilre idling. PTO side everytime... I took it back again Questioning the oil pump.. they told me the octain was too high93 intsead they said to usa 87. they also said the olug gap was the problem.. I,m picking it up again tomarrow. should I believe them or go to another dealer. I,m getting sick of taking it back.. 1 hour drive each way.. Any one got any ideas whats wrong with it?
 

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Stick a SLP single on there, it'll run perfect.[/b]
YES, YES, YES a SLP pipe, can & SLP clutch kit, total different engine then light brown spark plugs, not the typical stock wet, black & fouled out.

With SLP pipe run 93 octane in warm weather & hard packed trails!!!!!!!!
---Stock 700 CFI, it will run better with 89 octane with 10% ethanol, still will foul out a few spark plugs!!!
---Most CFI Poo's have excessive injector oil, should be approx 60:1 fuel to oil ratio.
---The Dragon's have a very poor engine cooling system!!!!!!!:
-------Up 170*F on hard packed trails at 30 MPH.
-------Down to 100*F on trails with 2" of fresh snow & speeds over 50MPH.
-----------Then at approx at 104*F my sled & most Dragons start going into a fail safe CFI mode, retard timing, extra fuel, BIG HP LOSS. FOULED SPARK PLUGS, etc, etc, then less Poo- Poo warranty & lot less customers!!!!!!!!!.


I now love my 700 Dragon with SLP pipe, can & SLP clutch kit
Good Luck, Rich
 

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Rich,

My Dragon runs up to approx. 2400rpm on start now and slowly idles back to 1900.....

Before reflash/SLP mods 1750-1800!

I am beginning to think a restrictor for the cooling system as Big Fuse described may be the ticket for those loose/deep snow cooling issues....

Have yet to ride in cold temps/fresh fluff though....

Have found a liberal dose of silicone release spray on tunnel will get the temps up a bit and keep tunnel free of icebergs/weight.

Still searching.....

Kidd
 

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I bought an 07 leftover. The dealer reflashed it . I took it riding it fouled 8 plugs in 30 miles. I took it back they told me it was caused by the oil in the tank and all i could buy was NGK plugs. I got it back with Chanpion plugs, it fouled one idling the next morning. I changed it and rode it two days without problem.. I started it one week later and fouled another wilre idling. PTO side everytime... I took it back again Questioning the oil pump.. they told me the octain was too high93 intsead they said to usa 87. they also said the olug gap was the problem.. I,m picking it up again tomarrow. should I believe them or go to another dealer. I,m getting sick of taking it back.. 1 hour drive each way.. Any one got any ideas whats wrong with it?[/b]
Did you get the vapor-seperator done yet? I rode my all last year by releasing the pressure out of the gas tank and letting it warm up to 80 degrees before touching the throttle. with the reflash,vapor-seperator, and t-stat no need to release tank pressure. Still let it warm up before touching the throttle. Also use Champion plugs. Hope this helps.
 
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Get all the updates done.

reflash,seperator,HD thermostat,oil pump adjusted to 50/1,coolant hose parallel system which re routes coolant.

go to your dealer and put on the digital wrench and make sure u watch him,check for trouble codes,TPS setting and timing are very important.

if this is all done within spec. your sled will run great,it's almost impossible not to run good.
 

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Get all the updates done.

reflash,seperator,HD thermostat,oil pump adjusted to 50/1,coolant hose parallel system which re routes coolant.

go to your dealer and put on the digital wrench and make sure u watch him,check for trouble codes,TPS setting and timing are very important.

if this is all done within spec. your sled will run great,it's almost impossible not to run good.[/b]
what should the TPS setting and timing be? I have a boondocker control box and my WOT is 211counts. Does that sound right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks everyone for your input... I will be installing a pipe, but that may wait until summer.I told the dealer I think the oil pump is the problem because the plugs look oil fouled. they said no. A friend of mine has the same sled and they ended up turning down his pump to cure the prodlem on his.
 

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Thanks everyone for your input... I will be installing a pipe, but that may wait until summer.I told the dealer I think the oil pump is the problem because the plugs look oil fouled. they said no. A friend of mine has the same sled and they ended up turning down his pump to cure the prodlem on his.[/b]
The Slp pipe is definitely the way to go. I put mine on this year and love it. Makes great power and has a good sound to it.
 

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YES, YES, YES a SLP pipe, can & SLP clutch kit, total different engine then light brown spark plugs, not the typical stock wet, black & fouled out.

With SLP pipe run 93 octane in warm weather & hard packed trails!!!!!!!!
---Stock 700 CFI, it will run better with 89 octane with 10% ethanol, still will foul out a few spark plugs!!!
---Most CFI Poo's have excessive injector oil, should be approx 60:1 fuel to oil ratio.
---The Dragon's have a very poor engine cooling system!!!!!!!:
-------Up 170*F on hard packed trails at 30 MPH.
-------Down to 100*F on trails with 2" of fresh snow & speeds over 50MPH.
-----------Then at approx at 104*F my sled & most Dragons start going into a fail safe CFI mode, retard timing, extra fuel, BIG HP LOSS. FOULED SPARK PLUGS, etc, etc, then less Poo- Poo warranty & lot less customers!!!!!!!!!.
I now love my 700 Dragon with SLP pipe, can & SLP clutch kit
Good Luck, Rich[/b]
Are you running all of the SLP intake kits in the dash and airbox too? Im in process of installing the whole SLP set-up in mine right now. Testing will go on next Thur.- Sun.
 

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Get all the updates done.

reflash,seperator,HD thermostat,oil pump adjusted to 50/1,coolant hose parallel system which re routes coolant.

go to your dealer and put on the digital wrench and make sure u watch him,check for trouble codes,TPS setting and timing are very important.

if this is all done within spec. your sled will run great,it's almost impossible not to run good.[/b]
Brock, explain the coolant hose parallel system which re-routes coolant flow, kit number, photos, sketches.
Sounds like a very worth while re-work!!!

Will the coolant hose parallel system which re-routes coolant flow keep the engine temps at approx 120*F when running 50+ MPG in 2"+ of fresh snow????

I was planing to installed the 3/16" I.D. restrictor under the thermostat, to raise engine temps when running in 2" or more of fresh snow?

With the SLP pipe I now can see light brown spark plugs turn wet & black when running 50+ MPH in 2"+ fresh snow. It appears engine temps of 100* F to 104*F put the ECU/CFI into a fail safe retarded, rich condition??????? With the SLP pipe it still runs excellent at 100*F engine temps, just not quite as fast as when at 125*+F.

I Now Love my Very Quick excellent running 07 Dragon 700 with the SLP pipe & SLP clutch kit, best trail sled on the market now!!!
Thanks Much for your HELP; Rich
 

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Are you running all of the SLP intake kits in the dash and airbox too? Im in process of installing the whole SLP set-up in mine right now. Testing will go on next Thur.- Sun.[/b]
I plan to install four 2" SLP Flow-rites & SLP clutch side vent kit next week. Rich
 

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Brock, explain the coolant hose parallel system which re-routes coolant flow, kit number, photos, sketches.
Sounds like a very worth while re-work!!!

Will the coolant hose parallel system which re-routes coolant flow keep the engine temps at approx 120*F when running 50+ MPG in 2"+ of fresh snow????

I was planing to installed the 3/16" I.D. restrictor under the thermostat, to raise engine temps when running in 2" or more of fresh snow?

With the SLP pipe I now can see light brown spark plugs turn wet & black when running 50+ MPH in 2"+ fresh snow. It appears engine temps of 100* F to 104*F put the ECU/CFI into a fail safe retarded, rich condition??????? With the SLP pipe it still runs excellent at 100*F engine temps, just not quite as fast as when at 125*+F.

I Now Love my Very Quick excellent running 07 Dragon 700 with the SLP pipe & SLP clutch kit, best trail sled on the market now!!!
Thanks Much for your HELP; Rich[/b]
If there is actually a "kit" of some sort, I'd be curious about it too. I had a chance to ride my sled in REALLY cold temps and fresh snow for the first time and observed some of the same things you did. Unlike the pre-reflash situation, the motor would maintain 120 F operating temps if I let it warm up to that level and then rode on hardpacked snow. However, once I hit the loose snow, the motor would slowly cool down. The engine temps wouldn't come back up unless I stopped and let everything warm up again, even on hardpacked snow. Its almost like the motor starts a "downward spiral" with operating temperature - motor cools down, ECM adds fuel, motor runs cooler, ECM continues to add more fuel, motor runs even cooler, etc. There were times my engine temps were running in the high 90s. While I didn't foul any plugs and the motor didn't run drastically different, my fuel economy dropped from 13-14mpg to just above 10mpg. I'm half tempted to buy an extra front heat exchanger and "dissect" it to see what is going on in there - see if I can "modify" it to correct the issue. In the mean time, I will probably try the coolant restrictor and see how much difference it makes in the running characteristics of the motor.
 

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I would agree. Normal operating temps on mine are 104° to 108° in good snow conditions. Only time runs higher is when snow is lacking. Low coolant temps, ECU richens mixture thus poor fuel milage, possible plug fouling, decreased performance. Not sure why they thought a HD thermostat would change anything since it can't even make it to 120° with the old thermostat. Polaris needs to adress the coolant temperature issue.
 

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Ok guy's here's my story, Last week rode 2 times whit my sled(dragon07).Trail conditions,hard
whit little snow,less than 1 inch. Sled temp average 128°f. Sled ran very good.....(no fouling plugs)

Yesterday, whent for a ride whit my friends.One has a IQ600cfi 2007 and the other one YAM.
4 to 6 inch of fresh snow. Start fouling plugs after 1 hour, 5 plugs total (Pist off!!!!)

Al day my sled temp was averaging 105°f and my friend 600cfi was still 128°f

Is this the reason for fouling plugs??????????

Is to much loss snow the problem??????????

Thermostat the problem???????????

Reflash, tstat, fuel/vapor done ,oil at 40:1

Hey Brock,is the coolant thing a recall/or update???????????


Thank's
 

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Thanks everyone for your input... I will be installing a pipe, but that may wait until summer.I told the dealer I think the oil pump is the problem because the plugs look oil fouled. they said no. A friend of mine has the same sled and they ended up turning down his pump to cure the prodlem on his.[/b]
Thats a crock! Mine was doing the same thing, plugs blacker than black itself, definatly an oil problem. It would smoke very badly and I couldn't let it actually idle for more than 10 seconds otherwise it would fowl, I had to hold the throttle at 3000rpm until operating temperature. I did put the slp exhaust system, but i knew it wouldn't improve, the slp system will lean the gas, which has no effect on oil injection. I first tore it apart myself to adjust oil set screws on the throttle bodies, but found that the oil pump was sticking half open, so I thought at first I had a faulty oil pump. I put it back together and called my dealer and he told me that the pump sticking when the sled was off was normal because the pump is actually manipulated by a running crank shaft. I ended up taking it to him and he agreed that i was way too rich, he adjusted it down for me and the sled is very crisp now, I haven't fowled a plug since, and the plugs a much better color, so if your plugs are black, don't let them BS ya, if you have some experience with sleds you can easily tell the difference in a fowled plug if it was caused by excessive gas or oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thats a crock! Mine was doing the same thing, plugs blacker than black itself, definatly an oil problem. It would smoke very badly and I couldn't let it actually idle for more than 10 seconds otherwise it would fowl, I had to hold the throttle at 3000rpm until operating temperature. I did put the slp exhaust system, but i knew it wouldn't improve, the slp system will lean the gas, which has no effect on oil injection. I first tore it apart myself to adjust oil set screws on the throttle bodies, but found that the oil pump was sticking half open, so I thought at first I had a faulty oil pump. I put it back together and called my dealer and he told me that the pump sticking when the sled was off was normal because the pump is actually manipulated by a running crank shaft. I ended up taking it to him and he agreed that i was way too rich, he adjusted it down for me and the sled is very crisp now, I haven't fowled a plug since, and the plugs a much better color, so if your plugs are black, don't let them BS ya, if you have some experience with sleds you can easily tell the difference in a fowled plug if it was caused by excessive gas or oil.[/b]
I race watercross so I can read plugs... I know they were oil fouled. I,m glad to hear i,m not the only one with this problem.. thanks for the info
 
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