[rob]

I ended up taking the coupling blocks out as an experiment today, and my F7 was much smoother in the moguls afterward.. Anyone else notice that?

 

[ods dan]

did it wheely too much..












PS get your stuff Rob?

 

[rob]

Originally posted by The Outdoor Shop@Jan 5 2003, 07:59 PM
did it wheely too much..












PS get your stuff Rob?

no, not at all. I still have the limiter strap in the middle position and that seems to hold the skis down.

 

[team arctic]

No experience on the Firecat, but the exact opposite is true on a ZR usually. Wheelies like hell (800 at least) and not as good in the moguls with them out...but, I guess that's apples to oranges. Marc

 

[f700]

Coming off my 01 ZR8 w/o coupling blocks to the F7, I agree with Rob that the coupling blocks do stiffen the rear suspension up. It makes sense since the rear arm has limited movement with the coupling blocks in.

 

[one ton fun]

with them off on the zr 800 you can wheelie it right on the bumper it's very unstable.

 

[bosssho]

Rob,

I rode with em out for 201 miles all over Maine and NH on Saturday...the sled pulled 114 on Back Lake (See my pic on the F7 Top Speed Post) and I thought it was smooth on the bumps and I didn't notice anything bad through the turns all day long...

One thing I can tell you is that it doesn't wheelie like everyone is talking about...I can lift the skis if I try, but nothing like what the guy with 01 Zr is talking about...also, I ran my friends ZR 800 EFI all day through the big trails on the straights in Maine (No one around at all) and he was dead even...if we started from a stop...he would hole shot me every time...and on the lakes...except when his non studded track is sliding he is right there with me too...and if he hole shots me...forget about it with all that torque on the 800....the 114 shows me my sled is running tip top, but I have no idea how all these F7s are killing everything but ZR 900s and RX1s on the lakes :huh:

 

[F5firecatsnopro]

too mine out it handled great i didnt notice ski pull when i stood on the back and held it to the bar they wouldnt touch but i mean if u sit u can still steer and it wont wheely as mcuh as liek a zr because of the longer track.

 

[Guest]

Rob, did the sled gain some more ski pressure with you limiter change? I am going to tighten mine up and give it a try.

 

[firecat AK]

My F7 allready likes to go over backwards when climbing in the hills, so I can't imagine what it would be like without the coupling blocks. I always used to remove them from my older polaris sleds, and liked it alot, but it never wheelied like my F7 does. I am going to leave mine in.

 

[Roy T]

Rob, rode 430 miles on my std F7 the past three days without any couplers with no problems whatsoever! I'll probably post a 600 mile report in a day or so. -- Roy

 

[mbickf7]

Bosssho,

I agree with your comment on the RX1, my riding bud has one that if he gets the whole shot I cannot get by him, If I get him out of the hole he doesnt get by me. They are very close. I did beat a cluthed ZR8 with V-force reeds, but not by a lot.

 

[rob]

Bosssho, is your F7 a Snopro? Mine is, and gets the holeshot everytime. With the limiter straps in the stock (longest) position, it would wheelie like crazy, even sometimes with half throttle when on hardpack. Putting the coupler blocks to #2 or #3 helped a bit to keep the skis down, but the real fix was to pull the limiter straps up one hole to the middle one. This fixed the huge wheelie problem, but the sled still pushed in soft or broken snow, so I left the coupler blocks at #2. It wasn't until yesterday when I finally got some ski bite with the Powder Pro skis that I decided to try and back off the coupler blocks to #1. When I did that there was no increase in wheelies, so I took the coupler blocks out entirely. Now I have good holeshot, great ski bite on all surfaces, and a softer ride It's like the best of all worlds. I'm VERY pleased with my F7's handling at this point!

 

[otterbob]

ive got a standard F7 and would like to stiffen the rear suspension. the coupling blocks have to be adjusted to tightend the tension on the torsion spring right? what else can be done to stiffen the rear?

 

[rob]

Originally posted by otterbob@Jan 6 2003, 08:10 AM
ive got a standard F7 and would like to stiffen the rear suspension. the coupling blocks have to be adjusted to tightend the tension on the torsion spring right? what else can be done to stiffen the rear?

No. Coupling blocks are seperate from the spring blocks. Check out the picture below.
How much do you weigh? There is a kit for over 230lb riders. I'd think about that, or perhaps check out the SP shocks? If you just want to make the best of what you have, put the coupler blocks AND the spring blocks on their highest positions.

 

[otterbob]

so the more tension on the coupling blocks and torsion spring the stiffer right? i dont recall anything in the owners manual on the coupling block. will have to check it out!

 

[ditchrider]

the coupling blocks r set on the highest setting from the factory right? or not?

 

[bosssho]

Originally posted by mbickF7@Jan 6 2003, 02:33 AM
Bosssho,

I agree with your comment on the RX1, my riding bud has one that if he gets the whole shot I cannot get by him, If I get him out of the hole he doesnt get by me. They are very close. I did beat a cluthed ZR8 with V-force reeds, but not by a lot.

mbickF7,

How long was the race with the ZR 800?

 

[bosssho]

Originally posted by rob@Jan 6 2003, 08:08 AM
Bosssho, is your F7 a Snopro? Mine is, and gets the holeshot everytime. With the limiter straps in the stock (longest) position, it would wheelie like crazy, even sometimes with half throttle when on hardpack. Putting the coupler blocks to #2 or #3 helped a bit to keep the skis down, but the real fix was to pull the limiter straps up one hole to the middle one. This fixed the huge wheelie problem, but the sled still pushed in soft or broken snow, so I left the coupler blocks at #2. It wasn't until yesterday when I finally got some ski bite with the Powder Pro skis that I decided to try and back off the coupler blocks to #1. When I did that there was no increase in wheelies, so I took the coupler blocks out entirely. Now I have good holeshot, great ski bite on all surfaces, and a softer ride It's like the best of all worlds. I'm VERY pleased with my F7's handling at this point!

Rob,

Mine is a standard with 102 1.075 Woodys SS picks. I have the shaper Bars with 6" carbides on order to help with the push...Do you think if I emulate your setup for suspension it would help...or is the HOOKING UP due to the Sno Pro track?

How much are the Sno Pro Tracks? Did you pick yours? What are your feelings on the picks for the Sno Pro track? How much Top End will I lose if I go to a Sno Pro track?

Thanks.

 

[rob]

I think the hookup has a lot to do with the snopro track. But I'm unstudded and will spin on ice. On a trail no one can touch me (except for another SP I guess). Nail it and I'm instantly 2 or 3 lengths ahead.

From what I've read you lose about 4 or 5mph on top with the deep track. I'd say at least that much as I don't have a big top end.