Hardcore Sledder banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,338 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was going to adjust them today, they have been on #2 since I got it and I decided to see what the other settings were like. I know when I first got it they were on 1 and I put them on 2 as a starting point. I remember to tighten them up I got a friend to stand on the bumper to collapse the rear arm so that it touched the blocks. I figured easiest way to tighten them and make sure they were lined up.

Problem: When I changed them today no matter what we tried I could not get the rear arm to come anywhere near the blocks :blink: :wacko: :unsure: Closest I could get them was with about a 3/4" gap between the arm and the block(with suspension collapsed) Anybody have any idea why they would touch before and not now??? :wacko:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
you are forgeting what coupling blocks do.. they make the front and rear arms share the load. Put a 2x4 edgewise under the rear of skid and push down on rear bumper.. then they will touch. But do yourself a favor and take the damn things out..handles much better w/o the coupler blocks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
534 Posts
Probably the only thing I disagree with rob about on this forum. If you want it to rail a higher coupler setting is needed. Removing the couplers (as the only mod) will cause wheelies from what I've heard and seen. If you want to do wheelie's remove the couplers.

To put my post in perspective however, I will say that I have not removed mine, but may do it for a little field photo wheelie shots of the sled.

This takes me back to the memory of seeing the braap pack guy do a 50 yard wheelie on an open mod Firecat frame sno-pro at the Silverdome last spring. Seeing that long wheelie, I realized that "I gotta get one of those 140 HP Firecats." It was a done deal in my mind at that moment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I normally like a tightly coupled sled. Imo, the coupling blocks on the 03 firecats DO NOT work the same or give the same results as on a ZR, (or most any other coupled sled). They don't do what is expected. Therefore you really can't disagree until you try it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,338 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks I will try that, went out for awhile today with them on 1, they are certainly touching in riding conditions, I can see the mark the arm left on it.

Rob that is what the perf manual said to do as well, just strange cause like I said I got them to touch no problem when machine was new and that was sitting flat on a cement floor :wacko: :wacko:

Oh well, give them a few miles on #1 then I'll try with them out. It's just so unfortunate for the family that this machine requires so much "setup testing time" :p :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
If agressive trail ridiing is what you do use the coupling blocks they work. I have the sno pro f7 with suspension setting as from the factory and wiegh 215lb. I've found for me, that the blocks set at 3 give the best results. The firecat does require a lot of rider input. If you want a set down and point trail sled the firecat is not for you.
The only time I run with coupling blocks out is for snow drags or radar runs, where weight transfer to the rear and ski lift is desirable.
Just be aware that throttle control and rider body english is needed for these short runs. And hang on!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,819 Posts
I've riden with my blocks out and after 10 miles I put them back in. Too much ski lift with them out. This is the same thing that I experienced with my 2002 ZR600CC. I ride very aggressive ditch banging and cross country, sleds never seen a groomed trail if that make a difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
I have ridden with them out over the past 400-500 miles and find it to be BETTER!!! Seems to soak up the bumps better, and I can still get a great holeshot. What are you guys doing to get your f7 to do wheelies?? I get a little ski lift, but it seems to level out after maybe 10-20 '. Rob, do you find taking out the blocks affected the handeling or cornering much?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
Originally posted by rob@Feb 28 2003, 05:33 AM
you are forgeting what coupling blocks do.. they make the front and rear arms share the load. Put a 2x4 edgewise under the rear of skid and push down on rear bumper.. then they will touch. But do yourself a favor and take the damn things out..handles much better w/o the coupler blocks.
Yes, yes, and yes. Damn, great minds think alike I guess. Me and Roy discussed ditching blocks way back. To clarify without blocks I feel it will lift more during hard acceleration (who doesn't want that rush, sweet) but less ski lift when cornering. On the old ZR's you could constant throttle through the corners but with the Firecat you have to roll off throttle on entrance and nail her on way out. Oh yeah don't forget to bang your nuts on the gas cap and lean my friend. Gotta centralize that mass ya know. One nut on each side of the tank seems to keep it balanced the best, Two to one side seems to throw it off. :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Originally posted by sabrecat_f7@Feb 28 2003, 10:56 PM
I have ridden with them out over the past 400-500 miles and find it to be BETTER!!! Seems to soak up the bumps better, and I can still get a great holeshot. What are you guys doing to get your f7 to do wheelies?? I get a little ski lift, but it seems to level out after maybe 10-20 '. Rob, do you find taking out the blocks affected the handeling or cornering much?
I agree. Just all-around better handling with them out. And I don't get "excessive ski lift" at all. Just lots of great transfer when I want it. I am TOTALLY satisfied and pleased with the cornering and handling of my F7 now. But remember, I'm using the Powder Pro skis.. Those account for a lot of the bite in the corners.
 

·
Premium Member
2014 XF800 137
Joined
·
4,042 Posts
Originally posted by rob@Mar 1 2003, 06:47 AM
I am TOTALLY satisfied and pleased with the cornering and handling of my F7 now. But remember, I'm using the Powder Pro skis.. Those account for a lot of the bite in the corners.
Is this why you dropped your limiter straps back into stock position, because of the power pro's?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,515 Posts
Originally posted by Thumper@Mar 1 2003, 12:30 AM
Yes, yes, and yes. Damn, great minds think alike I guess. Me and Roy discussed ditching blocks way back. To clarify without blocks I feel it will lift more during hard acceleration (who doesn't want that rush, sweet) but less ski lift when cornering. On the old ZR's you could constant throttle through the corners but with the Firecat you have to roll off throttle on entrance and nail her on way out. Oh yeah don't forget to bang your nuts on the gas cap and lean my friend. Gotta centralize that mass ya know. One nut on each side of the tank seems to keep it balanced the best, Two to one side seems to throw it off. :lol:
LMOF @ the last part of your post!!!

2700 miles on my STANDARD F7, and here's the setup up I'm currently running for trail riding; I weigh 140 lbs:

Front Ski Shock Springs: 2 3/4" threads showing

Front Skid Shock Spring: 1/8" threads showing

Rear Coupler Blocks: Took them out LONG time ago! (On a whim, I took them out on my '02 XC800 while trying to get it to ride, transfer and hook better, and it was by FAR the best thing I did to THAT sled!)

Rear Torsion Springs: Set on #3/highest setting -- VERY IMPORTANT, especially for any kind of high speed aggressive riding... TRUST ME ON THIS!!! And if I were any heavier, I'm SURE I'd want to at least TRY the heavier rear springs!!!

Skid Limiter Straps: Stock/middle hole

Carbides: Stud Boy 9" Shaper bars -- VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!!

Track/Studs: 1 3/8" Sno-pro track w/ 102 1.45" Woody's Megabites

A few other improvements: PowerMadd 6" handlebar riser; Cat's 3" rear seat pad; Grab-On handlebar grips (started with stock grips, then SLP's custom cusion grips, back to stock grips, and finally back to Grab-On grips that we've been using for over ten years around here); been VERY happy for the most part with box-stock clutching, but I did just get the F7 sno-pro 53/51 helix to try seeing as how I've got the deeper lug track, but I'd also like to throw the stock 1" track on to try just for the heck of it, against my bud's F7 with the deeper track, just to see what the difference is, if any.

Aside from a couple small minor issues, this sled has been damn near perfect for me so far, and as Rob stated in one of his first reviews, this sled IS the fun factor! So far I just don't see anything that much more exciting for 2004 that I just gotta' run out and buy, so at this point I'm leaning towards running this one for at least one more year. The last sled I liked this much was my '98 XC700 that I put on over 12,000 miles during four seasons! -- Roy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Originally posted by fast 600+Mar 1 2003, 10:01 AM-->
<!--QuoteBegin-rob
@Mar 1 2003, 06:47 AM
I am TOTALLY satisfied and pleased with the cornering and handling of my F7 now.  But remember, I'm using the Powder Pro skis.. Those account for a lot of the bite in the corners.
Is this why you dropped your limiter straps back into stock position, because of the power pro's?[/b]
yes. I didn't notice any more ski lift after returning the limiter straps to #1 (stock) position. And I love being able to pull the skis off the ground when I really want to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
:) DITTO WHAT ROY T & ROB SAID THE FUN FACTOR
REMINDS ME OF MY MERC TWISTER DAYS 25 YEARS AGO
FUNNY I FEEL 25 YEARS YOUNGER ON MY F7 TOO
CAUSE THE THE YOUNG STUDS I RIDE WITH CANT KEEP UP !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
just returned from a 1900 mile gaspe trip. 1700 without coulping blocks.03 800 zr rides better and takes bumps better. i really love getting on a straight groomed hard packed,cruising at 50 mph,then pinning the gas and and feeling the skis lift into the air for the next few hundred feet.small jumps and rises in the trail will airborn the skis with minor throttle blips.guess its just the way i like to ride.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top