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Here is the coupler Block adjustment explaination. Copied from old forum (thanks Jay)
Each number dials in the amount of "coupling" that the suspension has. The lower the number the slower that the suspension couples, the higher the number the quicker it couples. Or if I am still confusing, the rear suspension has two shocks as we all know. They act as (2) units when uncoupled, when coupled they act as (1) unit. The setting of the blocks determines how far the rear arm and shock move before the front shock starts taking some of the load. Hence, the more wheelie with less coupling, because the force is just acting on the rear shock. When more coupling is dialed in the less the wheelie, because now you are trying to compress both shocks at the same time and that takes more force. Typically the more the coupling the better the ride quality, the less the coupling the better the holeshot and weight transfer.
Each number dials in the amount of "coupling" that the suspension has. The lower the number the slower that the suspension couples, the higher the number the quicker it couples. Or if I am still confusing, the rear suspension has two shocks as we all know. They act as (2) units when uncoupled, when coupled they act as (1) unit. The setting of the blocks determines how far the rear arm and shock move before the front shock starts taking some of the load. Hence, the more wheelie with less coupling, because the force is just acting on the rear shock. When more coupling is dialed in the less the wheelie, because now you are trying to compress both shocks at the same time and that takes more force. Typically the more the coupling the better the ride quality, the less the coupling the better the holeshot and weight transfer.