[Earl McCreary]

Here is the coupler Block adjustment explaination. Copied from old forum (thanks Jay)

Each number dials in the amount of "coupling" that the suspension has. The lower the number the slower that the suspension couples, the higher the number the quicker it couples. Or if I am still confusing, the rear suspension has two shocks as we all know. They act as (2) units when uncoupled, when coupled they act as (1) unit. The setting of the blocks determines how far the rear arm and shock move before the front shock starts taking some of the load. Hence, the more wheelie with less coupling, because the force is just acting on the rear shock. When more coupling is dialed in the less the wheelie, because now you are trying to compress both shocks at the same time and that takes more force. Typically the more the coupling the better the ride quality, the less the coupling the better the holeshot and weight transfer.

 

[Nick]

We should move the pictures over too.

 

[Earl McCreary]

Nick,

Could you please move it over?

 

[Nick]

I think Rob may have closed access to letting us see old information, I sure don't the information anywhere!

 

[Earl McCreary]

Nick, here is the link to the old stuff..

http://www.robertlyonsphotography.com/forums/index.php

 

[ac f7]

pics from the old forum

 

[ac f7]

close up set @ #2 position

 

[rob]

Good job, Guys!!
Saves me the work

The old forum will stay up and you can search and find any of the old posts. Remember I combined the bulletins, tech, litterbox, and general into one, and that will make it easier to find things now.

 

[CCC Sniper]

so what setting do i want to keep the skis on the ground? set it to 3 on the top?

 

[Nick]

In thery, you would like to have the number 3 to the right (according to the pictures). The makes less transfer for the skid keeping the skis down. Now, I haven't had any snow to test it on, but maybe someone else on this board can give some more input.

 

[shaneyb72]

Could someone who's had a chance to test this post a message about what setting to put the blocks on if you want to keep the skis on the ground a little better. According to the picture above, how should the block look for this?
Thanks,
Shane

 

[jay]

Originally posted by shaneyb72@Dec 10 2002, 09:45 AM
Could someone who's had a chance to test this post a message about what setting to put the blocks on if you want to keep the skis on the ground a little better. According to the picture above, how should the block look for this?
Thanks,
Shane

According to the picture above, you want to rotate the block so that the #3 is facing towards the front of the sled (right of the picture), this will give you the most amount of coupling and the least amount of ski lift.

 

[Matt]

Welcome to the world of FRSSes and RRSSes guys! It's kindof tricky to learn at first, but once you figure it out, it makes for a nice ride. It's as simple as this. To reduce ski lift in corners and keep the wheelies to a minimum, set the blocks so the thickest portion faces the front of the sled (contacts the rear arm when it's compressed). It has worked this way on Polaris sleds for years. If you plan on spending a weekend drag racing, take the blocks out all together and hang on tight. She'll just about flip over backwards when ya nail it From the sounds of it, Cat may want to offer different (thicker)coupler blocks to those who have deeper lug Fcats. They're transferring too much weight and lifting the skis a lot even with the blocks set to maximum coupling.

Matt

 

[Nick]

Originally posted by Matt@Dec 10 2002, 11:54 AM
From the sounds of it, Cat may want to offer different (thicker)coupler blocks to those who have deeper lug Fcats.  They're transferring too much weight and lifting the skis a lot even with the blocks set to maximum coupling.

Matt

Yea, does anyone know if there are aftermarket blocks that are available that allow for better adjustment than the stock Cat blocks?

 

[Earl McCreary]

The adjustments on this will vary from rider and conditions.

My suggestion is try it on 2, if it reduces your ski lift enough to make it fit your taste leave it there. If not try it on 3. Remember this effects weight transfer. Too much is not good either. I still have mine on 1, and find it ok, if I don't ride sitting back. I am going to try 2 this coming Sunday and see what it buys me.

 

[jayjaysin]

Thanks for clearing this up. All allong I thought you were talking about the spring blocks because on my last sled, 98 ZRT, it wasn't coupled. So how do you adjust the coupler block? Just by hand, or do you use the spark plug socket like the spring blocks? And do you have to go in one direction like the spring blocks? And to clerify, because I always get confused, when adjusting the spring block, are you supposed to always go in one direction? Maybe you're always supposed to turn it like you are tighting a nut? Clockwise? Or follow the numbers? Please help!

 

[Snowblind]

When changing the setting on the blocks get someone to sit on the sled and so that the couplers line up properly to the rear arm. I did not set mine perfectly and when I hit the first bump the blocks split in half. after fixing and setting them this way no problems.

 

[dave cat 7]

so these are set on 1 from factory, do not have my sled, of course it at the dealer getting fixed

 

[CCC Sniper]

any update on this yet? mines still at 1 and its dangerous enough in the trails? Just by flipping it to 3 it'll be better? Anyone convinced that 2 is the better half?

and has anyone actually removed it for drags