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Clutch weights?
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I got a set that I will sell you for $100
Im moving to alabama and don't need them anymore.
Im moving to alabama and don't need them anymore.
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the updated weights work great. I have a stack of win's to show for them.
durability was an issue with the earlier ones but the have upgraded to billet. I put over 1000 miles on a set last winter.
durability was an issue with the earlier ones but the have upgraded to billet. I put over 1000 miles on a set last winter.
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:drunk: don't get me started....its not by choice
Dono.... if you had to sell something wouldn't you butter it all up too. Nice that he gets to write all the clutching articles and thus slants them to suit his product. I am sure there is alot more he left out and alot more pro clutch tuners than him. If this inconsistent bomb was so great don't you think the pros would be using them. I haven't heard of one yet in the last 2 years that has used them. If they could gain you even .05 off your times , you better believe somebody would be using them. Look at Pro stock 800 and stock 700 and several other classes. The top 4 finishers were within .05 and Stock 700 they were .037. So if the little gimmick weight could do better don't ya think Somebody would try ??????? I think he convinces every buyer they are in on a very well kept secret and your gonna be the" IT " in on the lake and trail with all this engineering. He also claims all the manufacturers are gonna start using product too.
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It seems to be a good idea. Plummer what profile would you sugest for a DDrive sled. Are we all just over thinking the dimond drive?
I am thinking of getting an ajustable set of weights.
Anyone know if the new D&D weights are ready for sale?
Thanks Don........
I am thinking of getting an ajustable set of weights.
Anyone know if the new D&D weights are ready for sale?
Thanks Don........
Well from all the testing I did last year I welded on my weights about 20+ times and the final profile is exactly like the D&D big Dog weights or like the set you seen in the article. Notice how there is a big improvement in belt grip, but a marginal at best improvement in shift force. Some concluded even Randy that there was too much belt grip and that is what blew alot of the belts. It was crushing them. He also claimed that cat just made junk belts ,cuz he had no problems with any other brand, but come to find out it was all cat customers that owned them and just a few of the other brands. I also notice how he tries to do every thing with the primary, what happens if you have alot of belt grip up front but not enuff in the 2ndary, guess what that looks like on the track dyno. Yup. Anyways it'll get you thinking and thats what he was trying to do. I was talking to ODS the other day and he was talking about a new 06 helix, and I told him what our F7 tested on our last few trips in march to the Kewenaw. I had recieved some helixes from a guy out west and with little adjustments and all the 2ndary stuff we were doing, the helix we ended up with and what I said I wanted to try this year was exactly what ODS already has. So I know I was close.
I would like to try the big dogs, would be alot easier than welding in the field or lake. Have you comared the actual profiles of diff weights, like Daltons, poo, AC,cutler, big dogs,thundershift, I have all but Big Dogs, but I did use the big dogs last year at the world Series of ice drags. They had some sick top end......They were obviously the race version notched.
I would like to try the big dogs, would be alot easier than welding in the field or lake. Have you comared the actual profiles of diff weights, like Daltons, poo, AC,cutler, big dogs,thundershift, I have all but Big Dogs, but I did use the big dogs last year at the world Series of ice drags. They had some sick top end......They were obviously the race version notched.
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Very good info again Plummer. I have the dalton profile and seemed to work good.
It is great for guys like me that buy parts........ to have guys like you to cut our time spent testing in half..... Thanks again for the reply.
Don........
It is great for guys like me that buy parts........ to have guys like you to cut our time spent testing in half..... Thanks again for the reply.
Don........
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Welded your weights?! Can you do that? Any worries of the heat affecting the strenght of the weight?
I've been thinking about going with 66g weights this season, can I just weld the stock 63.5's up to 66 grams? We have a digital scale so weighing them would be no problem.
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Is it a safety concern or just a concern that all three may not be the same or something else?
Weights can defenatly go bad too. Maybe not if your just doing 1/4 mile runs but I've seen plenty of weights that were completely toast after a few thousand miles.
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Happens all the time when clutchs are completely neglected. Sometimes the bushings wear out then the hole in the weight wears against the pin. And i've also seen weights that develed extreamly deep notch's from the rollers. The sides wear a little too sometimes.
In all honestly AC clutchs are pretty crappy in terms of reliability. I dont think I ever saw a 98-00 ZR go over 3000 miles without needing a complete clutch rebuild. Buddy of mine bought a 98 ZR 600 last year with 5300 miles on it and everything was shot! Cover and inner sheave bushing were gone, weights were gone, weight washers were gone, pins were gone, spider rollers were gone. The pins in the spider had worn into the spider leaving it as junk. The weight pins had worn into the movable sheve leaving it junk. The only thing he could reuse was the main sheve and the spring. lol
Anyway back on topic, can you please give me more details on welding weights??
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