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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay guys I need your tech help.

We have always done most/all of the regular maintenance on our sleds. The one thing we have stayed away from is rebuilding our primary clutches. Well, with help from the guys here I hope to change that.

We need to do at least 3 clutches for the following sleds (2000 XC 700, 2001 XC 600, 2002 600 Classic).

I am interested in all your comments and advice. We already have a clutch puller and are planning on buying the necessary tools. From what I can tell it looks like we will need a spider tool and spider jam nut tool (if you guys say I need it).

Also, I am interested in your comments on what components should be replaced and the best way to buy them (is there a clutch rebuild "kit" available that includes all the required parts?). It looks like Royal Distributing sells Rebuild kits but am unsure of the quality - does Polaris have a similar kit available - obviously we will change the springs also.

We are not really concerned with making any "improvments" or changes to the clutch set ups - just looking to learn a bit and do preventative maintenance.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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First thing I would check is to see if you need a full rebuild or not.How many miles are on the sleds? Polaris clutches seem to hold up very well. You may only need new weight bushings and pins. But there are full rebuild kits. I know EPI has them and Team as well as many other places. And they include everything you would need. You can also buy the parts individually as well.The tools you mentioned are what you are going to need besides your basics.It's hard to say with what you need without seeing the clutches. I'm sure someone else can go into more detail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nickels:

As always thanks for your help!

I do not think I would buy the rebuild kits until we had them apart and had a look at them. From what you are saying it sounds like the weight bushings and pins should be checked first.

Do the rollers, bushing and buttons hold up well? How about the cover bushing?

The sleds all have 4000-5000 more miles on them.

Thanks again.
 

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MY21 650 SBA 146, ES, ICE Storm 1.5
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Originally posted by Red Rocket@Oct 7 2005, 10:33 AM
Okay guys I need your tech help.

We have always done most/all of the regular maintenance on our sleds.  The one thing we have stayed away from is rebuilding our primary clutches.  Well, with help from the guys here I hope to change that.

We need to do at least 3 clutches for the following sleds (2000 XC 700, 2001 XC 600, 2001 600 Classic).

I am interested in all your comments and advice.  We already have a clutch puller and are planning on buying the necessary tools.  From what I can tell it looks like we will need a spider tool and spider jam nut tool (if you guys say I need it).

Also, I am interested in your comments on what components should be replaced and the best way to buy them (is there a clutch rebuild "kit" available that includes all the required parts?).  It looks like Royal Distributing sells Rebuild kits but am unsure of the quality - does Polaris have a similar kit available - obviously we will change the springs also.

We are not really concerned with making any "improvments" or changes to the clutch set ups - just looking to learn a bit and do preventative maintenance.

Thanks in advance for your help.
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[/quote]

2000 XC 700
2001 600 Classic
Big Block non VES have the wide roller clutch, with standard cover.

0.54" wide roller on spider, wide roller rebuild kit 2201169 $95 list
You should also check the bushing on the cover and movable sheave.


2001 XC 600
Small Block VES has the narrow roller clutch, with standard cover.

0.35" wide roller on spider, narrow roller rebuild kit 2200386 $85 list
You should also check the bushing on the cover and movable sheave.


ON ALL THREE
In addition to 3 spider rollers, the roller rebuild kit contains:
3roller pins 1" long, 6multilube washers, 6buttons 6.2mm thick, 12button shims, 3weight pin bolts.

dissassemble and clean the inside of the secondary, check the buttons, check that the helix is not dirty, corroded or otherwise binding, also make sure the bushings are not worn or binding.


For tools you will also need a primary clutch holder, to safely and without damage hold the fixed sheave while you remove and replace the spider jam nut and the spider. You should have a good clutch alignment tool. You will need a good snap ring tool for the secondary. Be prepared to find weights and maybe springs that need to be replaced. Many will tell you that the stock springs have probably taken a set or sacked out and should be replaced. That is likely.

I would strongly recommend at least one service manual or detailed instrutions on disassemlby and reassembly of the primary and secondary clutches, to help in identifying problems, correct steps, and marking of components and torque specifications for reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by ExcursionPSD@Oct 7 2005, 02:07 PM
2000 XC 700
2001 600 Classic
Big Block non VES have the wide roller clutch, with standard cover.

0.54" wide roller on spider, wide roller rebuild kit 2201169 $95 list
You should also check the bushing on the cover and movable sheave.
2001 XC 600
Small Block VES has the narrow roller clutch, with standard cover.

0.35" wide roller on spider, narrow roller rebuild kit 2200386 $85 list
You should also check the bushing on the cover and movable sheave.
ON ALL THREE
In addition to 3 spider rollers, the roller rebuild kit contains:
3roller pins 1" long, 6multilube washers, 6buttons 6.2mm thick, 12button shims, 3weight pin bolts.

dissassemble and clean the inside of the secondary, check the buttons, check that the helix is not dirty, corroded or otherwise binding, also make sure the bushings are not worn or binding.
For tools you will also need a primary clutch holder, to safely and without damage hold the fixed sheave while you remove and replace the spider jam nut and the spider. You should have a good clutch alignment tool.  You will need a good snap ring tool for the secondary.  Be prepared to find weights and maybe springs that need to be replaced.  Many will tell you that the stock springs have probably taken a set or sacked out and should be replaced.  That is likely.

I would strongly recommend at least one service manual or detailed instrutions on disassemlby and reassembly of the primary and secondary clutches, to help in identifying problems, correct steps, and marking of components and torque specifications for reassembly.
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[/quote]

Excursion - thank you very much!!

When reading your response I realized I made a typo. The one sled is a 2002 600 Classic (Small block VES) not a 2001. Sorry.

Obviously that will change the kit part #.
 

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my .02 ,stay away from royal for rebuild kits,,EG, there secondary buttons,GONE in 500 miles,melted to nothing.

weights pins rarely wear out,[almost never ,weight bushing goes first]
rollers should be replace if there loose on the pin .30.00 cdn each ,ouch,
also change cover bushing,20.00
i know here,the dealer has a kit for 150 plus the cover bushing,/

hard to say what you need,but weight bushings and cover bushing is almost a given,
thats around 35.00,
a manual ,will tell everything and show how to do it also,,cheap investment.
 

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:polaris_rules:
As far as tools go......Micro Belmont Engineering has the sturdiest primary clutch holder and jam nut/spider removal combo tool. They also have a wide variety of clutch parts.
 

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as stated, you will need a baseplate, jam nut tool and spider tool. usually runs about $150 for the tools. before you disassemble the clutch, measure the belt to sheave clearence with a new belt on the primary clutch. it should be less than 0.020 inches. i like mine at 0.010", if it's to big, you'll need to remove a shim from under the spider. you need to mark the parts before scattering pieces to the four winds. the cover, spider and movable sheave have an "X" cast into them for alignment. the main problem is sheave to sheave aligment, especially if you add/subtract shims from under the spider. make sure the two sheaves are aligned on assembly or the clutch will be out of balance and lead to real bad things. if your marks are within an inch on reassembly, you're good, any more i would play with shims until it aligns. other things to look at are weight pin bosses. the weights have a tendency to stick to the pins and the pins move in the sheave wearing the bosses. a set of front nose cutters like these http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...-250&lpage=none makes removal of the tower buttons a snap. you will be able to pull them out without damaging them, making shimming of the tower buttons worlds easier. these pliers also work great for removing the buttons from the driven clutch as well. the Polaris manual has a very good section on clutch rebuild, it's a good buy if you have the means. Brian.
 
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