Ideally you take the Primary clutch off with the proper clutch puller and install the new parts on the bench.
The clutch face is held on with 6 bolts and there's the spring in there that's compressed by the clutch face plate.
The weights are held in by a pin and nut. Simple to remove once the clutch face is removed or compressed securely. An Allen key and 3/8 wrench is required for this.
If you have never done it before you should have someone Show you how it's done or if it's only a 1 time change, have the shop do it.
It really only takes about 20-30 minutes at most by someone experienced at clutch work.
So the shop shouldn't charge more than an hours labour.
Sometimes the Drive or Primary clutch can be very stubborn to get off the crankshaft, and this definately needs someone who has experience with these tough to remove clutches.


For the Driven or Secondary Clutch:
You will need a compression tool to at least do the Secondary Clutch.
The Driven clutch has the helix and spring in it, the Helix bolts come off with a Torx head bit and they as well can sometimes be difficult to remove and require heat to avoid stripping the bolts.
The Spring is under a lot of pressure and this is where a compression tool is definately needed. There's a snap ring(need snap ring pliers) and that holds the rollers in which is above the spring.

 

Just so the op isn't confused, the puller is for the primary clutch on the crank.
The secondary is easily removed. Remove the bolt and pull it of the shaft. The helix can be removed with no special tools. It comes out easier if you turn the adjuster all the way out ,then use the proper size Torx bit to remove the screws. Take the helix out. Now is when you need the compressor to take out the spring. Compress the spyder and remove the snap ring, then you can release the spring pressure to replace the spring. The spyder will only go back on 1 way. There are 2 splines on the clutch post that are bridged, and a keyway in the spyder to match it. Here is a pic of my home made spring compressor for the Team secondary's.

 

Just so the op isn't confused, the puller is for the primary clutch on the crank. The secondary is easily removed. Remove the bolt and pull it of the shaft.

Good point... I'll edit that!

 

I plan on it being a one and done. Put the kit in and be done with it. I'm just nervous because I don't know how the dealer would respond with the sled only haveing 200 miles on it lol. Would that void my warranty?

 

no

 

a lot of guys have dealers put my clutch kits in there brand new sleds. and a lot of the dealers have called me from MN. to N.Y. etc.to make sure they were doing it right.

a clutch kit or gearing change will only void your warranty if you do something wrong causing damage.

 

Pretty sad that an OEM Certified mechanic, or not even certified but works for the dealer, has to call someone to install clutch components.
Pretty basic task for a "mechanic"

 

EPI has a video on installing a clutch. should be helpful.

 

So my clutch kit got shipped out today. So I decided I'd call me local dealer to ask them how much they would charge me to install it. They want $100 for installing it. That seems crazy high, am I wrong.

 

Well depends on their labour rate. $65-$85 per hour.
IMO it's on the High side.
I do some work out of my garage and if everything goes smooth I would charge $60-$70 to change components and clean clutches.
Make sure for that price they are cleaning the clutch faces and the inside of the secondary usually gets some belt debris in where the spring and spring cup sits.

 

I need a clutch puller, anyone know what clutch puller I need or how to make one?

 

I went threw 2 Polaris pullers but they lasted me 5 years.
I just ordered a Dalton puller as i was told it is more durable then a Polaris one.
Search for Dalton Industries and call them they will tell you the right pulled you need.
I am away from home and don't know the part number off hand.

 

Make sure you balance the primary weights, they are all over the place. start with 64 grams

 

Are you saying the weights form the gabes kit are all over the place?

 

Somebody please tell me what I'm doing wrong for this water trick I can't get this primary off for the life of me

 

Why not just buy the correct puller?

Products - Tools - Snowmobile - Clutch Pullers - Polaris - EPI

Polaris Drive Clutch Puller  | Goodwin Performance, Inc. – Snowmobiles, Snowcross, High Performance Clutches, Suspension, Service, and More!

 

That's my next move I have heard from every one how easy this water trick is.....well not for me. Looks like clutch puller it is lol.

 

I have never done water or grease clutch removal. both use the same principle. hydraulics. The key is sealing the correct thread pitch bolt to the clutch inner post so nothing leaks past.Teflon tape is the best sealer

 

The water trick isn't always easy. I had a 2011 Pro-R in the garage and between heating the clutch shaft, Using gear oil, keep tightening the puller every so often and letting it sit, it was close to 3 hours before I got it off.
I never liked the idea of using the Clutch Bolt but some use that method.

 

I never liked the idea of using the Clutch Bolt but some use that method.

e.g Doo TRA clutches can use the clutch bolt, but it won't work with these polaris clutches

 

Anyone know what i should torque my secondary bolt to.

 

Secondary clutch bolt torque is 17ft/lbs and the main primary clutch Bolt is 80ft/lbs.
For the Secondary I always just hold the brake and give it a good snug with the Wrench!

 

this is the problem with the water trick. if any air is trapped in the hole it doesn't work good. what works better is a clutch puller that is cut off at the threads. and no Teflon tape. thread it in slowly. then use a air impact tool. it's not the torque or hammering but the speed of a impact air tool that work's.

 

So Rick, with the cut off puller, is it just a quick zip with the Impact Gun and it comes off pretty easy or what?

 

yes it works way better. more water or oil builds better hydraulic force. a regular puller pushes all the water out. if you cut a bent puller off just below the threads it works very well. they usually fall off. very easy.

 

If you are just trying to replace the primary spring, or clutch weights, you don't have to take the primary clutch off..i never have.

 

If I had 3 guys to hold this new spring down and line it up maybe, its way harder to compress than the factory I already tried lol. I can compress the factory spring no problem

 

It sounds like the spring is too stiff for a trail sled.
I use the center bolt to get the cover on most of the way..then slowly and evenly tighten the 6 smaller bolts.
I temporary use a wider washer on the center bolt..it needs to be wider than the bushing hole in the cover.
I also noticed it takes less force to put the cover on my indy..compared to my edge sleds.
so far, that's the only thing that's easier to do on the indy.. compared to my older sleds.

 

My Indy voyager is a 144 with a 2" track. Trails are just for finding new powder I'm not using it strictly as a trail sled.

 

You can also get 3 clutch face bolts that are a little longer than the OEM ones and then the face doesn't come right off. Makes it easier to line back up.
You just take 3 bolts out completely and put the longer ones in, then take the remaining 3 OEM ones out.

 

I want all around performance that's why I went with gabes kit

 

I would try that stiffer primary spring..and if the engagement rpm is too high, or if it trenches a lot..i would put the stock prim. spring back in. then see how the secondary clutch works with the new helix and spring.